When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
There are (5) bolts that fasten the dash on the truck. You’ll unhook steering sector shaft, shift cable, a bunch of wires, etc.
take the fuse box and GEM out first. THIS is where water intrusion does damage.
i was trying to take the gem and fuse box out first, but the videos still don’t make it too easy. There’s a ton of corrosion visible back there
Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
Don't bother trying to fix each little symptom as it crops up. Do a proper strip and restoration. I went through more or less the same thing you are going through now when I first bought my truck. It was only when I decided to take everything apart and restore/replace anything that even looked remotely funny that it became a reliable daily driver.
Absolutely, I figured I’d rip the dash and seats out, inspect underneath the carpet, etc.
Everything underneath the truck looks kosher after examining it under a lift. It’s just the god damn water intrusion that’s making my life hell. It’s causing those electrical issues and caused surface rust to develop on metal in the cabin. Mostly worried about what happened behind the dash, everything else is simple to treat or replace.
Originally Posted by BBslider001
Maybe this has been asked, but was this truck possibly a flood vehicle? Sure seems like it with the stuff you have been experiencing.
I thought it might have been, but it’s got a clean title, nothing but surface rust underneath the truck, and no visible “waterline” per se. I think it’s just water leaking into the cabin for years, causing rust in the electronics behind the dash and corrosion throughout cabin because of trapped moisture. The air vents also look filthy, so if that’s the potential flood water line, I’d guess the rust would be much higher?
The GEM and fuse box are the only things the can really be damaged. Almost all of the electrical connectors are there. There are a couple plugs in passenger side kick panel.
All of these need to be unplugged before pulling the dash out anyway.
Flood cars can be cleaned and nobody would ever know. If no full coverage insurance, then ‘clean’ title and nothing in a vehicle history report.
When I was buying from insurance auctions all the time, I anxiously waited for all the 7.3’s to pop up after a big flood in Texas. There were probably several 1000 7.3’s ‘lost’ in the flood. Over the next year or so, maybe a dozen popped up at the auctions. I bet a lot of people are driving recovered flood trucks and have no clue.
Surprisingly, things like PCM and GEM often still work as long as the key wasn’t turned on while it was still wet. Now, for how LONG they’ll work - who knows!
The GEM and fuse box are the only things the can really be damaged. Almost all of the electrical connectors are there. There are a couple plugs in passenger side kick panel.
All of these need to be unplugged before pulling the dash out anyway.
Flood cars can be cleaned and nobody would ever know. If no full coverage insurance, then ‘clean’ title and nothing in a vehicle history report.
When I was buying from insurance auctions all the time, I anxiously waited for all the 7.3’s to pop up after a big flood in Texas. There were probably several 1000 7.3’s ‘lost’ in the flood. Over the next year or so, maybe a dozen popped up at the auctions. I bet a lot of people are driving recovered flood trucks and have no clue.
Surprisingly, things like PCM and GEM often still work as long as the key wasn’t turned on while it was still wet. Now, for how LONG they’ll work - who knows!
Even though it’s never been registered in a flood state, it definitely could have gone for a swim at some point lol
Just checked service sheet and noticed mechanic used 75-90 in the rear diff (no mention of additive) and Mercon LV in the transmission. Aren't these the wrong fluids?
75W-90 is correct for a Dana 80. EDIT: I dived a little deeper into this and there is mention of a TSB changing it to 75W-140 synthetic. I have not actually been able to find said TSB yet.
The "correct" ATF argument has raged long and hard on here. I have a BTS transmission and they recommend Schaeffer All Trans Supreme so that's what I run.
Just checked service sheet and noticed mechanic used 75-90 in the rear diff (no mention of additive) and Mercon LV in the transmission. Aren't these the wrong fluids?
The rear should be 75-140 syn. Mercon V in the trans. The transfer case is Mercon LV. I used the Amsoil equivalent to those specs. I think @SkySkiJason uses LV in the trans though.
The rear should be 75-140 syn. Mercon V in the trans. The transfer case is Mercon LV. I used the Amsoil equivalent to those specs. I think @SkySkiJason uses LV in the trans though.
I have put LV in 4R100’s and no problems. But, per Mark K I will use Merc V from now on. I was confused with all of the conflicting info on this subject....
on edit. Definitely don’t mix LV and V!!!
I thought all rear diffs required 75w140 synthetic and LSD additive if LSD. But, clearly I’ve been wrong before.
75W-90 is correct for a Dana 80. EDIT: I dived a little deeper into this and there is mention of a TSB changing it to 75W-140 synthetic. I have not actually been able to find said TSB yet.
The "correct" ATF argument has raged long and hard on here. I have a BTS transmission and they recommend Schaeffer All Trans Supreme so that's what I run.
I have always run Schaeffers in both autos and both my manuals. I highly recommend it to cover a multitude of sins...er, applications.
Personally I wouldn’t spend any money there until you get the engine and then body sorted out.
I was really hoping to put some mileage on the truck before rebuilding/replacing the injectors. Perhaps the Archoil would do something, idk. That’s why I was concerned about the trans and rear diff being intact.
I used Mobil1 synthetic after my rebuild.
Isn’t the trans already shifting a little iffy? Sorry my memory of the entire thread is not completely clear.
I just don’t figure you’re going to be working the trans very hard with all the other issues you are dealing with. I don’t think gently running the fluid you have in it will cause any issues. Wolfshead isn’t an unknown brand. My in-laws have sold that brand and said it was pretty good stuff (at least their grease, I don’t know anything about the AT fluid). When I searched years back it seemed synthetic ATF was basically one choice per brand. Hoping someone else can jump in here with some real experience on Wolfshead synthetic ATF soon to set the record straight.
My focus would be on getting the engine running correctly before anything else. That way you’re not in too deep if you decide to punt on this whole deal. Just don’t want this truck to become a giant money pit for you. If you try to fix everything at once you may end up with an expensive partially completed truck that you decide to let go. That would stink.
Now I already mentioned that I can’t remember all the details of your thread so maybe you have the engine reasonably drivable. If that’s the case then carry on to the next big thing. But I was thinking you were to the point where it would drive but not be very happy about it. I’m not saying jump into injectors yet by the way.
I used Mobil1 synthetic after my rebuild.
Isn’t the trans already shifting a little iffy? Sorry my memory of the entire thread is not completely clear.
I just don’t figure you’re going to be working the trans very hard with all the other issues you are dealing with. I don’t think gently running the fluid you have in it will cause any issues. Wolfshead isn’t an unknown brand. My in-laws have sold that brand and said it was pretty good stuff (at least their grease, I don’t know anything about the AT fluid). When I searched years back it seemed synthetic ATF was basically one choice per brand. Hoping someone else can jump in here with some real experience on Wolfshead synthetic ATF soon to set the record straight.
My focus would be on getting the engine running correctly before anything else. That way you’re not in too deep if you decide to punt on this whole deal. Just don’t want this truck to become a giant money pit for you. If you try to fix everything at once you may end up with an expensive partially completed truck that you decide to let go. That would stink.
Now I already mentioned that I can’t remember all the details of your thread so maybe you have the engine reasonably drivable. If that’s the case then carry on to the next big thing. But I was thinking you were to the point where it would drive but not be very happy about it. I’m not saying jump into injectors yet by the way.
I just washed the whole truck and degreased engine compartment so it’s not such a mess working on it. Going to drive it around a little bit later tonight, when it’s cold and nobody’s around, and assess it on my own. It was driving funny, but it hasn’t been taken on a legit test drive yet.
Transmission fluid and magnet looked immaculate, so hopefully the trans is good. It shifts pretty damn hard and there’s some driveline vibration and noise. Vibration could definitely be coming from suspension, tires, or torque converter. Gotta drive it to narrow it down.
It took two tries to get it started this morning, but it’s starting to become more compliant with cold starts. Will report back with my findings.
I just drove it maybe 10 or 15 miles. The engine starts up relatively trouble-free, but it's almost 80 degrees even at night, so it's hard to replicate a cold start.
The truck SERIOUSLY lacks power. Engine revs normally in park, but climbs RPMs very slowly when actually driven. It's an absolute dog on the road, I couldn't really get it above 35mph without flooring the hell out of it. No codes according to Forscan though.
Transmission (i think) kicks quite hard when upshifting and sometimes when downshifting. Not sure if it's a "kick" or a slip...please see video. Clunks when putting in/out of gear, and hard to get it into gear using the shifter. Honestly makes me think it's stuck in 1st or 2nd, but i could swear it's shifting higher than that.
Suspension is totally shot, bounces around and makes a ton of noise.
Steering is also a disaster, the alignment is COMPLETELY off (basically driving with steering turned 45 degrees). Steering is very difficult, especially when approaching either end of the "lock". You often have to reverse the truck because you can't successfully complete a U-Turn. Steering is also squeaky.
Attaching a video of driving the truck floored, along with a pic of the steering on a straight road.
My dad also dropped the tiny bottle cap for the Archoil into the gas tank on accident...
To make things worse, the radio just turned itself on. Sounds like some water got into the GEM. Parking brake light doesn't work, AC doesn't hold a charge, and 4x4 still not working, on top of other issues. No horn or cruise.
HELP ME!!!
Trying to drive it straight requires turning steering like this^
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
