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This is how I forced oil down the cable without removing it from the truck. Gravity and time is our friend. I like the soak it in a pan idea if you can get the whole thing out easily. My heater cable winds around the heater base and blower cabinet so its pretty pinned so it stays in.
New fuse block is mostly for removing the new load from the key switch and light switch. I am adding circuits, not cutting the harness. A high power relay will make these circuits only active when the key is ON. Located on the drivers inner fender for easy access. This way I dont have to contort to inspect and replace the newer blade style fuses! Note these are all added features except heater blower. I briefly considered installing it upside down so it is legible from my orientation leaning over the fender but thought it looked stupid when looking at it from anywhere else under the hood!
One idea. I ordered my harness (dash,engine, all accessory wires) from alloy metal products in New York for my 1960. They are factory correct including fuse box. They made a number of them when I ordered mine so they might have a few left. Unfortunately the older harness wires get brittle and crack from the heat/cold. It was expensive but worth it.
If you're not concerned about being factory correct, I'd advocate for an aftermarket wiring harness. I installed a Painless universal one in mine & it worked well. My brother-in-law put one from American Autowire in his 72 Blazer & I was REALLY impressed with the construction & quality of it.
If it is one of the old trailer brake systems that connect to truck's brakes you would be better off replacing with a modern electric system. My mother used to talk about the time they came down a mountain road with no truck brakes when their trailer brakes failed.
If it is one of the old trailer brake systems that connect to truck's brakes you would be better off replacing with a modern electric system. My mother used to talk about the time they came down a mountain road with no truck brakes when their trailer brakes failed.
how would a modern style know how much braking is being applied without manual brake pressure input? Cant just plug it into the factory harness like I did my 04 Superduty.
I was talking systems that connected to truck's hydraulic system. With the electric you would need to connect to trailer to adjust proportional control. If I remember correctly they connect to truck brake switch light circuit for input voltage.
I was talking systems that connected to truck's hydraulic system. With the electric you would need to connect to trailer to adjust proportional control. If I remember correctly they connect to truck brake switch light circuit for input voltage.
on a 1960 that would be on/off with no gradient or transition. Its worth looking into if any systems are designed for our old trucks!
Fixed heater wire soldered shrink wrapped. This works perfectly now on high and low, heat or defrost! Wires are not brittle, repaired nicely This pile came from right vent only! Lubed cable and it is now useable.
