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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 10:25 AM
  #46  
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Just my opinion, but you might want to take the whole interior harness out of the truck and go thru it. much easier to work on that way and by the looks you have it nearly all disconnected. You will be able to better check for damage of the hidden spots that our friends the mice like to cause. I ended up using the harnesses from two additional parts trucks to get mine back to good condition.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 07:21 PM
  #47  
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Brakes

Taking a break on electrical. Got the rear brakes done!👍. New rear bearings because they had some small signs of pitting. It feels like the mechanical goes faster with solid milestones/pictures than electrical!







 
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 07:52 PM
  #48  
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Looks like it ought to stop when it should.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 10:58 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by spurredon
Looks like it ought to stop when it should.
Absolutely the plan! For me, stop is more important than go!
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 06:15 PM
  #50  
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Heater switch test1

Interestingly my heater switch tested out as functional with a continuity test...
I will try a load test next to see if the contacts can pass the power but???? WTF on people not replacing fuses. I dont see how wiring in a toggle with inline fuse is easier (just sayin)



 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 08:26 PM
  #51  
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I have taken switches like that carefully apart to clean and lube but sometimes they don't like it very much.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 12:40 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by spurredon
I have taken switches lot that carefully apart to clean and lube but sometimes they don't like it very much.
what is your success ratio? Since these are made of Unobtanium its not clear the best way to proceed.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 01:05 PM
  #53  
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All depends on how crumbly the fiberboard backer is. I would say roughly 80 percent. Very carefully bend those little tabs back without putting pressure on the body of the switch, Kind of pull them back, just enough to get it open. Be gentle. The 20 percent that have failed, failed miserably.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2020 | 09:50 PM
  #54  
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Good bad ugly

The good is the switch works perfectly on both high and low contacts and turns off when it should.... the fan runs on both high and low speeds correctly when jumpered....bad is previous wiring changes hacked the harness apart! Pics may not do it justice. The red wire was added, cut and spliced into low speed tap loosely ran to the added under-dash switch.


 
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Old Feb 19, 2020 | 10:04 PM
  #55  
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Lube the cables

Anyone have a better way to get light oil down the cables?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2020 | 10:17 PM
  #56  
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Rodent sign...

More evidence of rascals!

 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 08:53 AM
  #57  
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Nice! When I first brought mine home, I pulled a huge rat nest out of the bellhousing.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:23 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Red60
Anyone have a better way to get light oil down the cables?
Soak them in a pan full of oil.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:25 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Red60
The good is the switch works perfectly on both high and low contacts and turns off when it should.... the fan runs on both high and low speeds correctly when jumpered....bad is previous wiring changes hacked the harness apart! Pics may not do it justice. The red wire was added, cut and spliced into low speed tap loosely ran to the added under-dash switch.


Mine had many of those "improvements", made by the previous owner. That why I ended up pulling the entire harness and going through it completely. If your switch is working I would leave it together.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 08:35 PM
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Heater success!

After oiling the cable and soldering and shrink wrapping the factory wiring back together the fan works on both high and low speed on the stock switch! Woo hoo! I removed the under-dash switch and 2 sections of added wire.

 
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