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BJ, I cut my rusted "bowl" out and made a flat repair for it. Then I used a newer style dimmer switch that mounts directly to the floor. Works good. Probably on page 3 or 4 of my build thread.
At the end of the article, the writer has included her bio. I had to laugh when I read she graduated from Evergreen State College in Washington State. The school, its administrators, faculty, and it's students have been in the news all too often of late. I'm surprised she got out alive. https://www.foxnews.com/us/evergreen...stice-meltdown
Finally got some more done on the 53 Frame. Added a 9” but found out I didn’t have both backing plates and the rest of the stuff to complete the drum brakes. So I decided to order a cheap bracket kit from FleeBay and piece meal a rear disk brake set up. First Bracket set was under $100 and Rotors were 75-93 off the shelf Ford 1/2 Ton, Calipers are Eldorados with rear e-brakes and they weren’t cheap but found a set from CPP for $150.00 both new. Well long story short the brackets weren’t tall enough for the caliper bolts to clear the rotors. And when I opened the pair of calipers they were for staggered shocks and were both Left Hand sided. Took the hit on the brackets, returned the rotors, and am waiting for CPP to send me a right side for the “extra” left side caliper that I sent back over a week ago.
I decided to not try to cheap out and just ordered a complete kit from JEGS. Everything went together as per the instructions. While the Axles were out I replaced the wheel bearings and seals. I noticed there was a small groove where the seal rides. After a little research I found Speedi-Sleeves (99149) and installed them. Just a FYI the bearing retainer works perfectly as a installation tool. I also had to install longer wheel studs for enough threads to extend beyond the lug nuts when the wheels are installed.
So now I need to plumb the brakes, bleed the system and get ready to put the body back on the frame.
Front Spring Shackle kit from MidFifty Rear Spring Shackle kit from MidFifty Front of 9” mount for stock Springs Rear of 9” mount for stock Springs 9” installed New bearings New Speedi-Sleeve Kit that didn’t work JEGS kit mock up JEGS KIT less Caliper Almost done now!
Today’s brake line plumbing went pretty good. I was hoping to get done but I ended up needing a 1/8 NPT to 3/8 IFF 90° elbow. No one has it in stock so I had to order it. Also while plumbing my new CPP power master and portioning valve I ended up with another issue. The back of the proportioning valve has a 9/16-18 thread. I was running 3/16 lines with 3/8 IFM ends. I thought it wouldn’t be a problem to get an adapter so I went to the only parts place in town that looks stuff up by part not by vehicle. Surprise there is no adapter! But they did have a fitting I could flare on to my lines. Whew
Just an FYI for you Panel owners, A under the floor Power Master Cylinder and the original between the rail fuel tank are incompatible. They both occupy the same turf on the drivers inside frame rail. I knew this, Don’t ask how, So last year I bought the shorter Panel tank that MidFifty sells. Even with the shorter tank space is at a premium.
Last edited by bjmayberry2; Mar 9, 2020 at 12:00 PM.
Reason: Corrected photo
What a GREAT Day to be Socially Distanced! Over 70° so I even got some minor painting done. Got some more plumbing done. Still waiting on the fitting I ordered but ran everything without it. Also adjusted the rear disc brakes and installed all 4 shocks. The last couple of days I took the fuel tank down and sprayed Bed Liner on all the contact points. Also found out my transmission mount hit my power master bracket so I removed it and cut the part that was interfering with the trans mount off and spot painted the repair. Still need to bleed the brakes (once the fitting comes in), figure out the E brake and fuel line routing. Then I can get the chassis outta the Mrs parking spot in our home garage.
So last year I bought the shorter Panel tank that MidFifty sells. Even with the shorter tank space is at a premium.
