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Found most of my questions answered, except I may have missed if anyone addressed the rear sway bar links. Is this a concern? Is there a shorter link that we need to be looking at?
Shorter drop-links may be required. After lowering my rear, the Hellwig Big Wig drop-links were too long. They're adjustable, and their shortest adjustment fit the stock truck fine ... not so when lowered. The shorter blocks caused the front of my swaybar to aim downwards, and raised the rear transverse portion of the bar. Being there was no more adjustment left in the Hellwig drop-links, I cut out a 1-1/4" section and welded them back together. The anti-swaybar sits level now and I've had no issues since.
FWIW, the Hellwig adjustable drop-link is comprised of a threaded rod and a tubular section having threads at the end opposite the "eye." I cut and welded the tubular section because it offered more mass to work with over the threaded rod portion.
I have a '19 350 CCSRW 4X4 I'd like to do this to. From what I gather I need to have the shorter blocks with 2.5 degree taper. Do any of the Ford parts satisfy this or do I have to go with PMF? If I have to go with PMF I assume I need the blocks with air bag tangs as I have Air Lift 5000's already installed on the truck.
So, the U-bolts I bought from PMF along with their 2" blocks, were too long. I went to cut them down and discovered they were rusting. I know the rust wouldn't affect them functionally, but with a new truck and virtually no rust anywhere else underneath, they stood out like a sore thumb. Instead of cutting them down, I replaced them with Ford OEM U-bolts.
What shocks are you guys using for lowered (rear) SDs?
The Bilstein 5100s specifically say the fronts are for leveled trucks....
I had 4600s on a 2008 SD and they did fine....
Funny you'd ask, one of my OEM shocks just crapped out (less than 20K mi), and I went shopping.
I spoke with a Rep at Bilstein, and he told me that I needed the 4600s. The "leveling" refers to a slight lift in the front end to counter the substantial factory rake, not a lowering of the rear as we've done in this thread. They don't recommend the 5100s for the front of "stock" height trucks. I even added that I have the snow plow prep package (heavier springs), and that I believe it sits ~1" higher than stock because of that without a blade. The Rep still recommended the eye-catching 4600s (I say that only because my 2017 is Blue Jeans Blue, and it's quite the clash with the Bilstein blue & yellow). Still wishing they'd make the 4600s body silver like the 5100 line, but I digress...
BFT,
I recall the Bilstein Rep at a local show telling me similar a year ago before they had even adjusted 5100s for 17-19....
Sounds like we get 4600s and paint them..... Or deal with the yellow....
Thanks for your input!
Patrick
Bonus question:
What steering stabilizer is everyone using (Direct replacement - I do not have death wobble- simply replacing with shox...)
Hello there, I'm curious about the best dual steering stabilizer as well. However, I am waiting specifically because of what it says in the latest TSB I could find RE: the Death Wobble remedy: Technical Service Bulletin 19-2274
I was concerned by the verbiage under Service Procedure near the bottom of the first page: "NOTE: With customer consent first, all aftermarket modifications to the chassis, steering and suspension systems should be removed prior to performing this service procedure. Removal of the aftermarket modifications is notwarrantable."
If I'm reading this correctly - and I may not be - it appears as though Ford can require the removal of all aftermarket mods (likely at our expense) to the aforementioned vehicle components before they'll perform the "fix" for the death wobble.That said, I also believe we're running the risk of hijacking this thread by continuing a "death wobble" discussion in it. We now return you to your regularly scheduled Reverse-Leveling discussion
I'm just now starting research and am not even sure if I want to do it. F-350 Tremor
Those look like a great option if 3/4” or 1 1/2” drop is what you’re after. Just a bit more maintenance. Thanks for showing I might be interested in them myself.
Those look like a great option if 3/4” or 1 1/2” drop is what you’re after. Just a bit more maintenance. Thanks for showing I might be interested in them myself.
Yeah, good point on the amount of drop. Better question would have been...
if you only want. 1.5” drop, is there any reason to choose a block over these shackles.
Blocks do not change the pinion angle as much as shackles. If it is a 350 the overloads will be closer to the pads with shackles. Bump stop will be closer with the shackles.
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