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Ive got an 18 F250. Lowered the rear last year with the F350 blocks and still had a slight rake. A few weeks ago I installed the Readylift 1" coil spacer that is actually 1 1/4" and a Readylift adjustable track bar (to straighten out the front). The truck is now completely level (no rake, no *** drag). Im running 285/75/18 Duratrac which is a 35" tire on stock rims and have absolutely no rubbing issues. I plan on installing a set of airbags in the rear in case I want to haul something.
Typo? You're saying you have a 250, and lowered the rear with 350 block?
Got a few pics at work. Wish the lot was level. I Re-read my post above. I did have these 285's on before I lifted the front an inch and had no rubbing. These 18's are my winter set. The truck came with 20's.
Getting ready to pull the trigger on this and...
I have a CC LB and was wondering how many of you have that configuration?
If you have the CC LB any vibration after installing the shorter blocks?
It would seem logical that the "drop" would be greater on a LB as the hitch point is further from the block. What are the measured heights you all are seeing before and after install?
My stock truck currently sits at about 24" to the top of the hitch sleeve, (22.5 center).
Going to install the 6C3Z-5598-A spacers.
Will be following that up with a B&W Gooseneck Hitch so we can get back to towing the horse trailer...
Tips, thoughts, suggestions, concerns?
Pictures to follow!!
If you have the CC LB any vibration after installing the shorter blocks?
It would seem logical that the "drop" would be greater on a LB as the hitch point is further from the block. What are the measured heights you all are seeing before and after install?
Check your transmission shaft and pinion angles before and after. After I did mine (F250 CCSB), those angles were equal to each within 1/2° ... no vibration at all at any speed or load. I saw 1-3/4" drop at the tailgate-step which makes getting onto that step a bit easier. I posted several photos of my swap and the hyperlink below will take you to that post (post #120 above). https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17607426&postcount=120
Check your transmission shaft and pinion angles before and after. After I did mine (F250 CCSB), those angles were equal to each within 1/2° ... no vibration at all at any speed or load. I saw 1-3/4" drop at the tailgate-step which makes getting onto that step a bit easier. I posted several photos of my swap a and the hyperlink below will take you to that post (post #120 above). https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...&postcount=120
Just to add a data point (or add to the confusion), I replaced the blocks on my '17 F350 with 2" F250 blocks part # 6C3Z-5598-A and it lowered my truck 1.5 inches. Made all the difference in properly setting up my fifth wheel.
Absolutely no vibration or other problems after about 5,000 miles.
Check your transmission shaft and pinion angles before and after. After I did mine (F250 CCSB), those angles were equal to each within 1/2° ... no vibration at all at any speed or load. I saw 1-3/4" drop at the tailgate-step which makes getting onto that step a bit easier. I posted several photos of my swap and the hyperlink below will take you to that post (post #120 above). https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...&postcount=120
YEP!!! Saw your (AWESOME) post!
Hope mine works out the same!!
Did you install the 6C3Z-5598-A blocks?
Originally Posted by SouthTXfiver
Just to add a data point (or add to the confusion), I replaced the blocks on my '17 F350 with 2" F250 blocks part # 6C3Z-5598-A and it lowered my truck 1.5 inches. Made all the difference in properly setting up my fifth wheel.
Absolutely no vibration or other problems after about 5,000 miles.
YEP!!! Saw your (AWESOME) post! Hope mine works out the same!! Did you install the 6C3Z-5598-A blocks?
(THANKS) Yes, I used the 6C3Z-5598-A blocks. Note - Those blocks are not tapered whereas the OEM blocks I removed had a 1-1/2° taper. I found it interesting that my tranny-shaft & pinion angles came out so close.
Good luck. It was a simple project after someone was kind enough to post that part number on this forum. I never did find a partnumber for shorter U-bolts, but I took it to a shop that does a lot of lifts and they had the spring shop on speed dial. The new, shorter U-bolts showed up in a couple of hours. I don't think that shop had ever lowered a truck and they looked at me a little funny at first.
Why Ford thought they needed to make the stock trucks taller is beyond me.
So parts guy at dealer helped me find OEM 1" spacers from a 2019 f450. They have the bump stop on them and they are tapered. Got the last set in the country as of today. I will post part numbers and pics once I get it installed
[QUOTE=Trouble_Is65;18062839]
Hello everyone,
I referred to this thread several times trying to decide how I was going to level my truck without raising the front end. Thank you to everyone for sharing your info and experiences.
It was enough of a chore for the little lady to get in to the truck after I put 35" tires on it, so I knew better than to raise it even higher.
I ended up using the 1 1/2" blocks with a 2.5 degree taper from PMF Suspension.
Denver Spring and Suspension installed them for me, along with new U-bolts. I attached 'after and before' pictures.
I borrowed a friends wheels and tires this weekend and put them on to take measurements. These wheels are 20x12 -44mm offset on 35/12.50r20 coopers. 2018 f250, 6.2, ccsb, snow plow prep, leveled rear with 2016' older 2" oem blocks.
Stock vs 35's
48" / 49.5" Bottom of door handle
flush / 5" Amount of tire hanging out fender in front
flush / 3.5" Amount of tire hanging out fender in rear
5" / 3.5" Distance between tire and rear of front fender
4.5" / 3" Distance between tire and front of front fender
When I buy my set I will probably go 295/65r20 on 20x10 -12 or -19 mm bs. 35's fit but they look a little big to wheel openings from the side and stick out to far. So a 34/11.50 with less -offset will not be so tall and less wide and stick out less all together. That's my 2 cents.
Some 35x12.50s are not a true 35, 34.7 depending on manufacturer. 295s are usually 35.4. Check manufacturers website for true measurements. If those are cooper stt pros then im pretty sure the measurements i mentioned are what they are. Ive been thinking about buying them.
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Lowering vibration
