Lowering rear end
New User
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
taper
Thanks!
4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 12
Likes: 4
Pitching motion
I had a shop install the 2016 blocks, lowering my 2019 F250 SCab slightly, <2".
I recommend this highly, not only to lessen the rake but to get rid of the pitching / rocking horse effect felt over every slight bump in the road.
I feel no vibration from the pinion angle change, no effect or adjustment required on my rear sway bar, but feel a much more pure vertical bump response. Dramatic improvement, I kid you not. I knew how much better it rode with a load in the 8' bed, but the improvement in the unloaded ride with that pitching motion gone made this mod worth every penny for whatever reason you are contemplating doing this.
I recommend this highly, not only to lessen the rake but to get rid of the pitching / rocking horse effect felt over every slight bump in the road.
I feel no vibration from the pinion angle change, no effect or adjustment required on my rear sway bar, but feel a much more pure vertical bump response. Dramatic improvement, I kid you not. I knew how much better it rode with a load in the 8' bed, but the improvement in the unloaded ride with that pitching motion gone made this mod worth every penny for whatever reason you are contemplating doing this.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
Lowering rear end
I had a shop install the 2016 blocks, lowering my 2019 F250 SCab slightly, <2".
I recommend this highly, not only to lessen the rake but to get rid of the pitching / rocking horse effect felt over every slight bump in the road.
I feel no vibration from the pinion angle change, no effect or adjustment required on my rear sway bar, but feel a much more pure vertical bump response. Dramatic improvement, I kid you not. I knew how much better it rode with a load in the 8' bed, but the improvement in the unloaded ride with that pitching motion gone made this mod worth every penny for whatever reason you are contemplating doing this.
I recommend this highly, not only to lessen the rake but to get rid of the pitching / rocking horse effect felt over every slight bump in the road.
I feel no vibration from the pinion angle change, no effect or adjustment required on my rear sway bar, but feel a much more pure vertical bump response. Dramatic improvement, I kid you not. I knew how much better it rode with a load in the 8' bed, but the improvement in the unloaded ride with that pitching motion gone made this mod worth every penny for whatever reason you are contemplating doing this.
New User
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I read this thread for about an hour and this was the first response that dealt with a new F250 with a stock 2" block where most people were reducing theirs to 2". You mentioned that you removed it completely. Did the u bolts keep the axle and springs in place without the alignment pin and also is there a pad in place between the two or did you have to install one? How would the bump stock work without the block arm and was the block you removed tapered? Sorry for the questions but I am in the same situation with wanting to lower my new truck.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 201
Likes: 7
I realize this thread has been alive awhile, however someone might be able to respond. I've got my parts and debating doing this myself in the garage with my old 3 ton floor jack and two 6 ton jack stands or have my shop do it. In three years, not really had a need to upgrade my jack, I have a 3 ton bottle jack I keep onboard if I need to swap out a flat tire. I've got two questions. I may be overthinking this, however anyone find a way to install the blocks and only lifting one side of the truck at time? If that's not feasible, anyone had this done at a shop and how many hours? I debating whether to upgrade my jack situation or the cost to pay the shop to do the block swap. In three years, I've not had to put the truck in the air for any of the regular maintenance I've done, including the filter and separator changes on the 6.7 PSD.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 435
Likes: 140
I did this in my garage with 1 jack and 2 stands. I jacked up the rear of the truck and put the stands underneath so the rear wheels where about 1/2" off the ground. Then, I put the jack under the rear diff and compressed the suspension slightly, enought to reduce tension on the ubolts. Then removed ubolts and since I was going to smaller block, there was plenty of room. Did each side, and then used the jack under diff to lift axle up and secured all bolts.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 201
Likes: 7
Thanks. Does not sound too taxing. Did you have to add blocks to the tops of the jack stands to cinch up the height or did you jacks reach? That's my concern, not sure my jack stands have enough vertical reach to get to that tire off the ground without something between the frame and top of jack stand. It's good to know there is more than enough clearance not to need to remove the tires.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 169
Likes: 7
Thanks. Does not sound too taxing. Did you have to add blocks to the tops of the jack stands to cinch up the height or did you jacks reach? That's my concern, not sure my jack stands have enough vertical reach to get to that tire off the ground without something between the frame and top of jack stand. It's good to know there is more than enough clearance not to need to remove the tires.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 201
Likes: 7
If your jack stands aren't tall enough, you may need to add something UNDER the base of the stands, not between the top of the jack stand and the truck. That would be much too unstable and dangerous! I have used concrete pavers under jack stands in the past, but you could probably do the same with wood blocks. Just make sure you have a strong, stable base.
That is my (poorly articulated) point. I'm not comfortable blocking out the jack stands so I was hoping to keep three tires on the ground at all times to do this. I had a ramp collapse once, fortunately and obviously wasn't under the car at the time. Different scenario, however I'm over cautious now being under anything other than a lift. I guess if I break loose the nuts on the ubolt before I get it in the air, less chance of rocking it off the jack stands. Same thing torqueing them to spec after back on the ground.
You convinced me, I'm going to give it shot as soon as we warm up here a bit. I'm sure my shop would charge me a couple hours, I could buy a HF special 4 ton jack with that instead. I was wrong on my floor jack, it is only 2 ton. my bottle is 3 ton. With the curb weight under 7500, I should be able to use the bottle jack with no issues.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 201
Likes: 7
That is a significant difference than a previous post that said he was quoted/charged 2-3 hours.
New User
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
Stock spacers
Lowered with 6C3Z-5598-A
Ever do something and wish you didn't?
WELL I lowered the rear utilizing the spacers from Tasca Parts Ford (6C3Z-5598-A) https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...acer-6c3z5598a and let's just say THIS IS NOT ONE OF THOSE SOMETHINGS!!!
Before and after pictures with and without the horse trailer attached soon but here (see pictures) is the result as measured at the hitch.
The ground to lip of wheelwell measured Premod front 42.5 rear 45; POSTMOD 42.7 and 43.5 so still have about an inch of rake. Tire pressures at tow PSI of 80 for all measurements.
I may be crazy but I think the over all feel of the truck is much better; the wife even made a few approving comments. I will exercise it a little next week to truly see but it is pretty amazing the difference in appearance as well as functionality (rear view mirror) and being able to see into the bed.
No driveline vibration but will keep track for as long as I remember to.
The shop that made the swap used new u bolts/nuts for those so interested in that conversation...