Lowering rear end
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 472
Likes: 153
From: Southeast Wisconsin
I just removed the 2 " blocks from my 01 F250 4x4. the ride and braking greatly increased. I had to installed new u-bolts since the existing ones had the bolts at the end of the thread area. I used u-bolts from Husky, rockauto has lowest price for them. Husky Spring - Home
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 493
Likes: 5
At first blush, it's not something I would expect. BUT, it's not the first time I've heard similar comments regarding ride quality.
I'd love to hear more about this.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,529
Likes: 390
From: SEVA
Repositioning the axle closer to the leaf springs reduces the amount of leverage with which axle torque from accelerating or braking can impart on the leaf springs (reduces spring wrap).
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 77
Likes: 3
I removed BDS 2 inch level last week, removed 3.25 factory rear blocks installed 1.5 inch PMF blocks with airbag tangs. So basically have the same look as before but two inches lower.
Also installed PMF track bar and drag link.
i did this for 5th wheel bed clearance and handling in crosswinds. Yesterday had 20knot gusting 25 and it handled amazingly better- night and day. Also I second that the ride is better than it’s ever been.
2017 F250 4x4 platinum
Also installed PMF track bar and drag link.
i did this for 5th wheel bed clearance and handling in crosswinds. Yesterday had 20knot gusting 25 and it handled amazingly better- night and day. Also I second that the ride is better than it’s ever been.
2017 F250 4x4 platinum
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 58
Likes: 4
From: Gilbert, AZ
So hear is a question, I have a 2020 F450 crew cab 4x4. It has 1” blocks in the rear from factory with bump stops. Would it be fine just to remove the blocks all together and sit the axle on the springs? Would there be an issue with anything lining up? I would like to drop the rear of the truck to help with my current 5th wheel trailer clearance.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 303
Likes: 35
Question
I removed BDS 2 inch level last week, removed 3.25 factory rear blocks installed 1.5 inch PMF blocks with airbag tangs. So basically have the same look as before but two inches lower.
Also installed PMF track bar and drag link.
i did this for 5th wheel bed clearance and handling in crosswinds. Yesterday had 20knot gusting 25 and it handled amazingly better- night and day. Also I second that the ride is better than it’s ever been.
2017 F250 4x4 platinum
Also installed PMF track bar and drag link.
i did this for 5th wheel bed clearance and handling in crosswinds. Yesterday had 20knot gusting 25 and it handled amazingly better- night and day. Also I second that the ride is better than it’s ever been.
2017 F250 4x4 platinum
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
I also installed the Timbrens in the rear for no sag when loaded, it is a great product and customer service. Same newer Monroe Magnum shocks, maybe 5k on them before and after. Overall better weight distribution is achieved. search weight distribution using your favorite adult search engine to see all of the benefits.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,529
Likes: 390
From: SEVA
Methinks the only change in weight distribution was achieved solely by removing the blocks, so the rear is now a few ounces lighter.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
by lowering the rear of the truck the center of gravity is changed for the better and which has a tremendous effect. the weight shift can be calculated, however IMO it is a few hundred pounds from the front of the truck towards the rear of the truck. this also helps provide more balanced braking.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: DFW
I noticed a vast improvement in the ride after replacing the rear blocks and when I posted the question on the "WHY" in this forum someone replied that a lower rear block changed the caster setting. I HAVE NO KNOWLEDGE of such things so I said OK and moved on but I do know the truck rides so much better the wife noticed right away. Later I decided to soften it a little more by running lower tire pressures when not towing and that seemed to help but not as much as I thought it would.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 303
Likes: 35
I noticed a vast improvement in the ride after replacing the rear blocks and when I posted the question on the "WHY" in this forum someone replied that a lower rear block changed the caster setting. I HAVE NO KNOWLEDGE of such things so I said OK and moved on but I do know the truck rides so much better the wife noticed right away. Later I decided to soften it a little more by running lower tire pressures when not towing and that seemed to help but not as much as I thought it would.
New User
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 12
Likes: 1
I am new to the forum, but have been reading for a while. I just wanted to throw in my $0.02, not trying to bash anyone. When tension is put on steel, it stretches, then goes back to the original position when the tension is removed, right up to the point of reaching YIELD. At that point, the steel will no longer shrink back to the original position, it will continue to stretch until failure. That is why the manufacture will recommend to not re-use bolts torqued to yield. If they are re-torqued, they have already stretched to yield and will continue to stretch. One may see the bolts are no longer tight due to stretching, so what's next, re-torque again. Eventually failure occurs. I'm not saying the failure is immediate, but it will happen. As one has said here, just try re-using head bolts. They will fail over time.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
I'm really interested in doing this. My fifth wheel sits a little nose high now and I can't adjust it down any without losing clearance between my bed rails and fifth wheel nose. So If I were to remove the factory blocks and lower it, what blocks would I need? Also, my biggest concern is when I hook the fifth wheel toy hauler up. Now it drops the rear end of my truck down level. So, with already being level I'd figure that it would make the rear of my truck squat. Is that what anyone else has found? What did you do to fix that? Air bags (which I don't want), timbrens, sumo springs, etc..?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 310
Likes: 1
I am new to the forum, but have been reading for a while. I just wanted to throw in my $0.02, not trying to bash anyone. When tension is put on steel, it stretches, then goes back to the original position when the tension is removed, right up to the point of reaching YIELD. At that point, the steel will no longer shrink back to the original position, it will continue to stretch until failure. That is why the manufacture will recommend to not re-use bolts torqued to yield. If they are re-torqued, they have already stretched to yield and will continue to stretch. One may see the bolts are no longer tight due to stretching, so what's next, re-torque again. Eventually failure occurs. I'm not saying the failure is immediate, but it will happen. As one has said here, just try re-using head bolts. They will fail over time.
I’m lowering my rear 1.25” and don’t mind spending the money but also don’t see any reason to if it isn’t necessary.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 324
Likes: 115
I am in the same boat as the guy above. If i am lowering my new to me f250 for the fifth wheel should i go with 1.5." blocks or the 2"?
Have any other fifth wheel people wished they went with one over the other after they installed them?
will also be getting air bags to bring it back to level when the camper set down on it.
Have any other fifth wheel people wished they went with one over the other after they installed them?
will also be getting air bags to bring it back to level when the camper set down on it.