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Lowering rear end

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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 09:27 AM
  #1  
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Lowering rear end

I know this will sound sacrilegious to some here, but I would like to level my F250 XLT super crew by lowering the rear end a couple inches rather than raising the front. I barely have clearance to get in my garage, and I mean BARELY, so raising it is not an option. I think I understand the process, but have been having trouble figuring out the parts I need. Would love to hear from anyone who has done this, and what parts you used. Does Ford make the appropriate parts, or do you have to use aftermarket parts? The current blocks on the rear of my truck appear to be a little over 3 inches. Thanks for any input.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 09:59 AM
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From what I have read, you can take the leaf blocks from a DRW, and then swap to shorter u-bolts (not 100% required, you'll just have a lot of thread showing).
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by stewy604
From what I have read, you can take the leaf blocks from a DRW, and then swap to shorter u-bolts (not 100% required, you'll just have a lot of thread showing).
Might as well swap to the shorter bolts. Reusing the stock bolts is a no go. U bolts are one time use items. Any spring shop can make you new ones 2" shorter. Just take them one of the old ones.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 12:39 PM
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I am pretty sure I am going to do the same. Check this out......

Edit: it is post #215 if this link doesn't take you straight to it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17441297
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 02:27 PM
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I lowered the rear 1.25" via the 2016 f250 block. Worked out great. It's been 16k plus miles so far.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 02:39 PM
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Here you go:

2017 Ford Superduty Fabricated Lift Blocks
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 03:54 PM
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I'd like to lower my aft end, too. Why get fabricated blocks at $100/pair when I can use Ford parts for about $80/pair? Here's a quote from that other thread: "I lowered the rear slightly and leveled my F250 CCSB 4X4 by replacing the 3½" blocks between the rear axle and springs with 2" ones part # 6C3Z-5598-A @$38.60 ea. from my local dealer."
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cficare
I'd like to lower my aft end, too. Why get fabricated blocks at $100/pair when I can use Ford parts for about $80/pair?
They work too. The aftermarket ones give a bit more drop if needed is all.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
They work too. The aftermarket ones give a bit more drop if needed is all.
Oh? I didn't look close enough to catch that tidbit. Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 04:19 PM
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https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...acer-6c3z5598a

Found them, now do they work with Fox 2.0 standard shocks?
 
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 05:44 PM
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Yes, the FOX are for 0-2" lift on both 250's and 350's. No issue there.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 07:21 AM
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"Reusing the stock bolts is a no go. U bolts are one time use items."
Why would that be the case? They appear to have enough threads to handle the difference.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 07:39 AM
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I lowered mine by replacing the leaf spring spacers with those from a 2016 SuperDuty (6C3Z-5598-A) which will lower the back-end 1.5 inches. This is just enough for me to be able to use the tailgate steps when I need to get into the bed. It's not completely level but it a lot better than it was.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jergle
"Reusing the stock bolts is a no go. U bolts are one time use items."
Why would that be the case? They appear to have enough threads to handle the difference.

The threads stretch when torqued the first time so Ford or any independent spring shop will say they are unsafe to reuse. That said, people do it all the time without issue.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jergle
"Reusing the stock bolts is a no go. U bolts are one time use items."
Why would that be the case? They appear to have enough threads to handle the difference.
I re-used mine and cut off the excess thread. There was barely enough thread to tighten them down, so going to a block smaller than the 2" 2016 F250 block will likely require shorter u-bolts anyway. I do periodically re-torque them just to be certain they are tight.
 
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