Popped off a CAC boot this morning. Exactly how tight do I need to make the clamps?

 

Since you have the plenum inserts, TIGHT.

 

I tightened the crap out of the clamps now. I was a bit worried about the plenum inlets before, even with the inserts, and the others were what I thought was tight. Now they are all TIGHT. We’ll see how it goes tonight. Picking up the TT from the dealer this evening. Should see if my boost is better now.

 

Good news is the transmission thermostat worked flawlessly. Unloaded on my one way trip to Macon the trans temp was pretty solid at 178*. Trip back towing the 6500 pound trailer it was at 182*.

Bad as news is my boost is lower than before putting the new CAC boots on. Highest I’d regularly see floored in 2nd going up hill was 18+ psi...according to Torque Pro. Best I could get towing the trailer up some hills was ~16.5 psi. I haven’t actually done a boost leak test again, but I really cranked down on the boot clamps. Any ideas?

I’ll probably post this over in the 7.3 forum too.

 

Up-pipes????

 

Checked them. Didn’t see any sign of leaks.

 

EBP sensor clogged to the top with carbon.

EBP bracket also clogged end to end. Took a 7/32” drill (by hand) and a rifle cleaning brush with brake cleaner to get most of it out. The threads for the sensor were also caked with hardened carbon. Tried a dental pick and then ended up running an 1/8 NPT tap in to clean that carbon out. Cleaning the bracket took more time than the rest of the job put together.

New EBP sensor and tube installed. I opted for new instead of cleaning the sensor as I was afraid of screwing up the sensor and having to replace it anyway. Did the new tube too while I was at it. Old tube was pretty clogged and corroded but was probably cleanable and reusable.

Cut the heck out of my finger on a fan blade breaking the top tube nut loose. Be careful in there!

After all that, no boost improvement. I’ll know more about MPG after a tank or two.

 

Trying to plan out what to do to Bob the Ex in the coming year as funds become available. Kind of an Excursion New Years resolution.

Here’s the list of things I need to do, in order:
Hutch-Harpoon
Gages
Up pipes
Brake lines

Here’s the list of things I want to do, in no particular order:
New steering gear
Wastegate adjustment
AIS
The heater hose I didn’t already replace
Driving lights front and better backup lights

List of things I’m still on the fence on so kicking the can down the road:
Turbo (service, compressor wheel)
Tuner/Programmer
Rear storage
08 mirrors

You guys have always been more than helpful in spending my money

Anything I should add? Change the order? What gages do I need, knowing I’m using Torque?

Thanks, and happy New Year!

 

I would put mirrors and lights in the need section. I would use a Bluetooth OBD and use my phone or other device that has Bluetooth, as it's cheaper.

 

Fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT on the gauges. I would also recommend a good digital volt meter on the dash. F650 dash is perfect for all of the above, and it will keep the gauges from spoiling your night vision. Torque won't give you boost, fuel pressure or EGT.

 

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...x-limited.html

That will keep you busy for a few hours...

 

Some pics of mine:

 

If you are looking to improve the OEM backup lights I don't recommend the $20-$30 LED bulb replacements. The light is whiter/brighter but doesn't seem to illuminate behind the truck any better. It actually seemed like 'empty' lighting as it did not seem to reflect as well off of things behind the truck and light them up as good as the OEM bulbs IMO. One of the bulbs died on me within 6 months too. I'm not sure if any of the high priced ones work better but I did not have a positive experience with the 'budget' ones from the auto parts store. I went back to the standard bulbs and have a cheap pair of driving lights I plan to install under the rear bumper near the hitch receiver. Just my .02

My turbo was still doing well when I rebuilt it and put in a billet compressor wheel. My turbo surge was cured and it seems like it has a little more giddyup in its step too (as measured by my highly calibrated SOTP dyno). I recommend moving this to your "want" list. Again just my .02

 

Here are the parts to install yesterday as I start the Hutch/Harpoon mod.


I drove the Ex all week trying to get the fuel level down to a manageable level. After the fuel gauge was down to about 1/8 left, I pumped about 5.5 gallons of diesel into a 5-gallon fuel can. I did this by idling the ex with the fuel bowl drain valve open. Worked like a champ.


First step after lowering fuel level was to disconnect the fill and vent hoses. Access is on the driver side, between the fuel tank and rear leaf spring. The clamps came off easily enough with a drill and extension. Getting the hoses off was another matter. Those hoses were in horrible shape after 18+ years so I was glad I replaced them.


Seeing as how I was going to install new fill and vent lines, I decided to cut the hoses. There really wasn't room to cut with my hose cutter or a box knife. Then I remembered I had a "wire saw" I used at one time in my distant past. Zipped right through both hoses.


This is the redneck engineering I used to get the tank out, and back in again later. Ratchet strap, jack stands with 2x4, and a floor jack. I used the ratchet strap on one end of the tank and the jack stands/2x4 on the other. I used the floor jack to hold one end while adjusting the other. About 2" per side per iteration. It took a while but worked fine.


Ok, mostly worked fine. The tank dropped the last 8-10" when it got off center on the ratchet strap. It was fine for access to the top of the tank to disconnect the fuel lines and the level sender.


Rolled the tank out on a furniture dolly.


There was an arrow on the tank lid. I painted a mark on the top of the tank with paint pen to ensure proper orientation when reassembling.


Innards out. Notice anything missing?


Yep, there it is! I had no idea it was off. First trip last April with this beast went over 700 miles on one tank. I've been down to the low-fuel light a few times, although one of those times it was clearly out of fuel about 10 miles later. It may have fallen off sometime in the last 10 months?

With all the shrapnel in there I decided I need to finish draining the tank so I could properly clean it out. 1st bonus trip: to the hardware store to get another 5-gallon gas can. I also tried to get the mold or whatever it was in there cleaned out. I removed about another 4 gallons of diesel before cleaning in this step.


As I had no pickup foot to measure the length off of, I measured from the bottom of the tank to the top edge of the opening. 15.625" as close as I could guess.


Obligatory picture of the nearly full original strainers.


Innards reassembled according to Hutch instructions. I wanted 1.5" of tube into my new foot. I cut 2" of the 3/8" fuel tube with a small tubing cutter, chamfered inside and outside on the cut end, and tightened well with the compression union. It was then I found out that the assembly was way too long to fit my 15-5/8" measurement. I had to cut the main tubing on the tank unit. No way to use the tubing cutter in there. I decided I'd do it on my band saw. Not the best option as it caught when it broke through and bent things slightly. Sanded and filed the end of the tube and all was well. This is when bonus trip to the store #2 occurred...can't re-use compression fittings. Back to the same hardware store.

Got back from the hardware store and began to assemble everything. This I when I discovered that the fuel injector clamps were not with my Hutch parts. Amazon said they delivered them on the 21st of Jan, along with other parts for this mod. Either I misplaced them or they didn't show and I didn't notice. Bonus trip to the store #3: Irish auto parts store for some hose clamps.


Obligatory Harpoon mod before pic.


Harpoon after pic. I only cut off less than an inch of the vent tube. I cut close to 3.5" off the fill tube though!

Not pictured: putting the assembly back in the tank, cursing that damn ring as I spent at least 45 minutes trying to get the threads to start, re-installing the tank (it was dark), running fuel line, and discovering I didn't get enough of the 30R9 3/8" fuel line. Bonus trip to the store #4: bought 10' of 30R7 fuel line from the Irish store as that was all they had. Lowered the tank again to install the new fuel line. Ran it up the frame rail and raised the tank again...hopefully for the last time.

As I was raising the tank I discovered that I hadn't removed the cut off fill and vent lines from their respective mounting locations yet. I used some of that Sailor cursing I learned in a previous life. Getting the new lines attached was no easy task either. Good stopping place for the night as I was beat and it was dark.

Funny side note: on at least three of my bonus store trips my wife asked me if I was “going out like that”? When I called it a day and headed in for a shower and saw myself in the mirror. Head to toe grime...could have been an extra in The Walking Dead.


My mounting idea for the Racor PS-120. 2" of 1-1/4" x 3/4" aluminum tube as spacers with neoprene washers, 5/16" bolts, nuts, and washers. Bonus trip to the store #5. Home Depot. Needed longer bolts than the 4.5" ones I bought. Went with 6", as I have a Racor shield design I want to tack on at a later date.


Racor installed and plumbed. Only difference from the "normal" Hutch mod was I used 5/16" hose between the Racor and the fuel pump instead of the more common 3/8". It was definitely a better fit at the pump. This required a 3/8" NPT x 5/16" Hose Barb fitting on the pump side of the Racor. Biggest pain of install was drilling the frame. I’ve got quality drill bits but that was hard. I primed and painted the holes to try and minimize rust issues.


First startup. Sucked a bunch of junk out of the tank already and has a few tiny bubbles that I hope will go away in time. I don't want to have to do this again.

Driving report: I didn't notice a quieter idle when I first started it up. On the way to the gas station to top off the tank I did notice that mid-speed (35-50 mph) was much quieter. I filled up and after the pump clicked off was only able to get another 1/2 gallon before fuel was up in the filler neck. Sweet! That might be worth it right there. When I got back home there was still some air bubbles bouncing around in the Racor so I took it for a 15 mile shake-down drive. That is when I really noticed how much quieter it was. Deceleration there was no cackle. Coasting down hills I heard tire noise for the first time. So far so good, as long as those darn bubbles go away...