Since I knew I was going to have everything out to do the steering gear, I figured this would be a good time to put in the Ford AIS.


AIS was a simple install. It’s a touch bigger than the regular air box. There is a little less access to the PS pump filler lid.


While at it, I decided to do the hidden Zoodad mod. With the exception of the redline mod, this may have been the easiest I’ve done! Drill two 3/4” starter holes, Sawzall between them, Dremel and file the edges smooth, and vacuum up the dust. 20 minutes, tops. I drilled my top hole about 1/8" too high. Just nicked a molded in cross brace in the header. Double check the backside before drilling!

Got my core charge back on my steering gear today...one business day after they received it!

Took my 7000 pound travel trailer to a repair place last Friday. Steering was so much nicer! Tracks like I thought it should. It was also the first time towing after installing the AIS and doing the hidden Zoodad mod. Don’t know if they are the cause, but I’m getting 2 psi more boost now!

So far so good on the roof insulation. No real way to know if it works long term yet.

I’m not worried about the mechanical bits for the long haul. It’s the electric and plastic that worries me the most.

Continued from May 20th...


Finally finished my backup light install. I think they blend in well with the chrome bumper!


Running the wire from the lights to the engine compartment was a hot mess. Remember the 4 gallons of oil I lost from my HPOP leak? Yep, most of it is still on the bottom of the Ex. Arms were black up to my elbows.

With a little internet research, it wasn’t too bad connecting my Carling-style switch to the relay to power the lights. Didn’t even blow any fuses this time!

When I finished it was a very sweaty 92F out. I’ll have to wait for darkness to see how much better these are over the stock backup lights.

If I had put any forethought into it I would have mounted them further outboard on the bumper. Access to the back side to install the washers and nuts was a “challenge”.


Factory backup lights.


Rigid Ignite backup lights. As best an auto adjusting phone can capture it...

Don’t judge me on the trash in my carport

Tackled the 08 mirror swap earlier this week. Bought the Trail Ridge 00019 model from 1AAuto: https://www.1aauto.com/ford-mirror-p...9/i/trmrp00019. This one has the 08 style heated power mirrors with turn signals and marker lights. These come with paintable and chrome caps and a round to rectangle adapter. If they sold just a power/heated 08 mirror without the lights, I would have done that. The TR 00018 mirrors are the same as the 00019 but without the paintable/chrome caps or the adapter, for the same price. Well, at least mine was supposed to have the adapters. They sent me them after I called asking where they were.

There are a bazillion threads and posts in reference to this upgrade. I’ve read them all. A special thanks to Nicmike (starting at post 24) for excellent pictures: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15842311, and andym (post 20) for the correct turn signal wire colors: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-2000-ex.html. They helped make this a less challenging project for me than most.


Side by side comparison between 00 Ford tow mirror and 08 style mirror.

Not many in progress pictures. It’s been done before.


Just wanted to show the first two pins I did to connect the heat and ground wires into the rectangular plug. Pins: Ford Wedgelock Pin Type Terminals 20-18 Gauge .060" Pin Diameter. Crimper I used: iwiss sn-48b.

I used the adapters that came with the mirrors. I crimped pins on wires and added them to the rectangular plug. Added ground, heat, turn signals, and marker lights. Pins were a tight fit into the plug. Needed to pull them in with some needle nose pliers. Kinda smushed the ends of the pins. For those that do this a lot I’m assuming there is a special needle nose like device that pulls pins without damage?


Completed. Marker lights and turn signals work! Only problem is I lost one of the screws that holds the passenger door panel in. Probably in a tire somewhere...

Bonus: while the under steering wheel covers were out I tightened the two T30 torx screws that hold the shifter tight. Much better on the shifter sloppiness. Probably need to do the tube bushings at some point, but that can wait.

Thanks. Those lights are probably the only unique thing I’ve done to my Ex. Everything else I’ve done has been done before.

Today was time to tie up some loose ends before the big RV trip in a few weeks.

First up was an oil change. When my HPOP sprang it’s leak, I just topped off with Rotella T4 just to get home (4 gallons worth). I’m sure that would have been fine to run, but I decided to make a change. I went with the Triax Synthetic 15W-40 Fleet Supreme ESP.

Next up was replacing the tie rod grease boot I tore doing my steering gear replacement.

Old torn boot leaking grease.


New Energy Suspension replacement boot.

I then moved on to doing my front brake caliper slide pin upgrade. I again followed Guzzle’s excellent instructions: Welcome to guzzle's Front Caliper Slide Pin Upgrade Web

While at it I greased my front unserviceable unit bearings using one of my own zerk fittings. That was a first for me. The last time I did this service I used the actual traveling Brotherhood zerk fitting. While at it I greased all the other suspension parts that I could reach.


Ok, not a great picture, but that is a polished slide pin bore hole. The bottom hole on both calipers was quite corroded.


The old slide pins. The bottom one on the driver’s side was fairly well stuck. One of the spring clips for the brake pad was also broken. Hopefully that isn't a major issue. Don't have a clue where I'd fine a new one.

While having the wheels off for the brakes, I also rotated the tires. Took a while to get through everything because of heat and thunderstorms.

Hopefully she's ready to go now. It was quite a day of truck tinkering.