It does make sense, and I will read that thread either at lunch or tonight.

So if you're just switching out old injectors and want to keep the truck pretty well stock just go back to the code your truck initially had is what I'm getting? Correct?

 

Yes, you are getting it right. Stock injectors are AD with an AE (maybe) in cylinder 8. These will only replace what you have with new injectors which will require no additional tuning or modifications to your truck.

 

That would be correct. But injectors aren't cheap, and there's a lot of work involved. It's not difficult, but detailed and somewhat time consuming. So for the money and time involved you should fully consider whether you're certain you won't get PMS later and regret not upgrading. That's some of what Sous goes through in the thread he posted. It's a good read, I wish he posted it before I replaced my e99 injectors with stock remans.

 

Got it. Thank you both. I will for sure read it tonight.

 

Sous: I haven't finished reading all the way through that thread yet so I don't know ow what you eventually ended up putting in your truck. What I do know is that I think, as you said for yourself, if I have a failure in my injectors I think time and cash will dictate what I do. My truck is a daily driver with almost a quarter million on stock parts. Rarely ever do I tow anything. I like reliability over power. So if the need arose I'd probably just stick with the stock injectors just new. At this point in life I don't have a money tree.(maybe I can breed one though, my living revolves around producing plants for food ) I will continue to read that thread though. Like most other things on here it is very informative.

 

I have not yet swapped out my OEM injectors because the truck starts and runs like a champ. I am usually of the mindset if it is not broke don't fix it. But, there is preventive maintenance that should be considered as well. Once my wife and I set a date to go full/long time RVing, I will than likely swap out the injectors for new PIS 160/80 injectors with a KC38R turbo. If money is tight I may just get new AD Alliant injectors and call it a day by leaving the turbo and tuning as it is.

I read and read and read about people loving the 160/80's and think that is what I want. Although, I think about me towing my trailer cross country over the Rocky Mountains and think, that is what I wanted. So, the jump to 160/80's and KC38R would simply be a jump in desire rather than necessity. I have 100% confidence that if I installed new AD's I would be happy as well.

My truck is not a daily driver. It is a tow pig for the trailer in my signature and a errand runner to the dump, wood pile, or whatever. It sites under a carport 29 out of 30 days in the month. I would be replacing the injectors before the RV lifestyle kicked in for good only for preventive maintenance purposes. My truck is at 249,xxx miles and I don't know if I will get 2K more or 200K more miles out of the injectors. I do know that I don't want to be in the middle of KS and have to perform an injector swap. New injectors will not eliminate the possibility of failure, but sure would decrease the possibility.

If you look at my signature, you will see what I build my truck up for. I don't care about 1/4 mile times, or black smoke production or how high the cab is. I need it for working, and when I need it I want it to be ready.

I wish you the best of luck in your decisions and journey. There is a wealth of information here, but takes the advice, experiences and opinions of others and form your own plan to succeed.

 

I will for sure take others advice. I agree with don't fix what isn't broke. I appreciate yours and everyone input when I ask questions.

 

Can an injector make a popping/knock noise at idle up through some acceleration? Havent been able to pull valve covers off yet. Scanned the truck nothing came up on any tests. No other symptoms just the noise.

 

If the injectors are loose they run louder than when they are correctly torqued. When I retorqued mine the difference was immediate and obvious. I was very surprised at how much difference it made.
My retorque thread

 

Alright. That's my next step. My boss won't be around next week so probably not much work so I'll try and take a look then.

 

Which boss? The one at home or the one at work?

 

I recommend doing a "hot torque". I torqued my bolts cold then again when the engine was at normal operating temperature and got movement out of all of the bolts...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ing-sound.html (it's post #19 if you want to skip to the results).

 

I will do that. The one at work. The little woman boss and I aren't married yet haha. After I pay some more business debt off we will be.

 

Yes definitely do a hot re torque. Some say this is not necessary and I guess this is a ymmv thing. But when I replaced my injector orings they were clackity again after a couple hundred miles. I went back in while it was hot and got a half turn on all of them to bring them back to 130 in/lbs. I've since put a couple thousand miles on it and it's still quiet.

 

I might finally have a chance to pull my truck in. If I take valve covers off, do I need to replace the gasket? Also, it may be a stupid question, but how do people run the truck with the valve covers off if the wiring harness is attached to it?