So the truck has been stalling out and dropping power randomly, symptoms pointed to needing the 50 cent mod, changed the CPS for cheap insurance and peace of mind just in case it wasn't the UVCH, no dice. So last night I yanked valve covers for the first time here's what I did while I was under there, please check my work/comment.

1st I ohmed out injectors thru the 42pin harness according to @Tugly sig link

Keep in mind my meter would only go down to a 0.4 when testing the test leads just to each other

DS injector ohms
#2 3.5
#4 3.4
#6 3.6
#8 3.6

PS injector ohms
#1 3.6
#3 3.6
#5 3.5
#7 3.6

DS glow plug ohms
#2 prong to ground 2" away 0.9 ; white connecting wire back to gp relay 0.3
#4 0.9 wire to relay 0.5
#6 infinity ohms up thru highest meter setting, checked multiple times and different ground spots,(replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#8 0.5 wire to relay 0.5

PS glow plug ohms
#1 1.0 ; white wire back to relay 0.6
#3 infinity multiple tests as well (replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#5 0.9 wire to relay 0.6
#7 1.0 wire to relay 0.7

Next up, EBP sensor was reading 1.9 higher than map/baro koeo, gently cleaning sensor earlier didn't help. Installed new Motorcraft one, will check it with Torque pro KOEO once the batteries are reconnected

Next I checked the UVCH connections which felt good, darn it, maybe a smidge of movement from the DS, but nothing halfway disconnected or anything. Hmm. I ground down the quarters to the top of his head and installed.

Next I torqued down the 4 bolts per cylinder of the rocker arms at 20 ft/lbs, all were perfect and snug

Next up, injector torque. I've read on here below 50, or 80 in/lbs depending on different threads and opinions, that I would need to replace injector o-rings.

So I set the in/lb click torque wrench at 50 in/# and tested the wrench's click on the higher torqued rocker bolts, then checked all the injectors, all were good

Reset for 80in/lbs, tested, then hit all injectors, #6 almost budged but clicked immediately before the handle moved
Reset for 100 in/lb, tested on larger bolt, 2 injectors took a 1/8 turn;
Reset for official spec of 120 in/lb , tested wrench, all injectors took 1/3 to 1 full turn
Reset for 130 in/lb (above official spec, but highly recommended on here by those way more knowledgeable than me on our engines) tested on a larger bolt, slowly and carefully gave all injectors almost an extra 1/2 turn to click; whew, finally a relaxed sphincter.

At this point I knew I needed to buy new glow plugs today, replace, then I'll check all glow plug torque at 14 ft/lb in one go, so I got everything ready for a hot torque after I do glow plugs tonight ("unloaded" the torque wrenches) and finally installed the RiffRaff AIH delete plug. My cell phone's alarm went off to get the kids ready for school, so hit the snooze and got everything put up. Now for a nap, then buy Motorcraft Glowplugs and check back on here before going back at it tonight.
Questions, comments, concerns? Thanks for all the info everyone

edit: oh I forgot, I also checked the turbo for play in all directions, was nicely solid and spun smooth, no wheel damage. Up pipes and well basically everything exhuast under hood had zero signs of soot/leaks with inspection mirror. If i remember tonight I'll try and take pics before my hands get too dirty to operate the cell phone 😁 CAC boots and pipes had light oil film/dust inside, will clean everything with simple green while i wait on engine temp for hot torque. The CCV relocate/delete mod is controversial on here, but I'd like to do it some day to see if it does keep the engine bay and intake tubes cleaner like most people claim.

 

Good work! The only thing I would highly recommend is to replace all a glow plugs while you're under there rather than just two. They are cheap enough and they usually need to be replaced in a set. Only use Motorcraft glow plugs and nothing else and definitely avoid Autolites.

 

Wow those were loose! What's the history on the truck? Do you know if the injectors were ever removed before? Make sure you check the UVCH carefully for any burned or chaffed wires, too (though you probably already know this).

Good idea on the plugs. They are cheap enough to just replace all 8.

 

Also check the zip ties on the harness. 3 of mine broke off and some chunks were still floating around under the valve cover that I was able to remove with some long nose pliers. I assume the rest of the chunks were ingested some years ago and have had (hopefully) no ill effect.

 

Bought the truck in Hell Paso thru a dealer after 14 months of looking every free day for exactly these options and never finding them all together LB, CC, 4x4, manual transfer case, 6spd, diesel. I saw it in front by the street driving home from work one day, was a trade in on a 6.0 It was the last week of March 2004 with 61,000 miles bone stock. Just hit 92k miles last month, I work 3.5 miles from home past 12 years and alternate between it, Corvette or the mini van.

I took it to the dealer once in Jan 2010 and had glow plugs and relay replaced after repeated very hard cold starts that winter in single digits. They also replaced pass side uvch, and the original 11 year old batteries. I just didn't have the time with a 20 month old and a 1 month old, and no knowledge beyond Haynes/Chilton. The injectors all should be stock, and look very plain with AD codes on them. Also took it in like 6 years ago or so for the CPS recall.

Loose? Although not still at factory spec they were for the most part all above 100 in# before any real movement and were most likely never touched after the initial factory build. Was all pretty normal for what I've read up on thru searches here, and was surprised/relieved how good everything underneath actually looked after horror stories here.
I'll hot torque them tonight after kids are asleep and hopefully call it good underneath for a few years. Or until i can sneak a set of 160/80's past the wife 😁 No reason to suspect cups with only refilling maybe a quart of oil every oil change, and zero coolant loss in 13 years.
Oh and I also checked turbo wheel for play and felt zero front, back, up, down, left, right, pretty much 360* movement. Will add that to original post. Off to buy the new candles, keep the opines coming

 

Surprising, only ones Orileys had in stock are the real ones

 

Get some anti-seize for the glowplugs.
Digital multimeter? If it doesn't zero try new batteries. Most have some combo of AA's and a 9V. Then check again. It's not as simple as subtracting the 0.4ohm "zero" reading from your measurements.
And I'm concerned about the 1/2 turn between 120 and 130 in-lbs for torque. Just seems like awful lot for such a small increase. Anybody else?

 

Maybe, maybe not.

I hot torqued early last year. All lower bolts were at least 100 in-lbs (no movement at 100 in-lbs in the torque wrench). Moved up to 120 in-lbs and got 1/8 - 1/2 turn out of each one (post #19):

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ing-sound.html

 

After reading through that thread, I think I'm going to crack it open one more time and re-torque everything down again before I leave for SC.

I thought I was putting those valve cover bolts on for a long time...

 

Speaking of vc bolts i'll torque them to 98 in/lbs on reassembly. During disassembly 3 were pretty loose, felt the others "break" free. Debating putting purple loctite (very very low strength, but still a loctite) on them just cause.

And yes I plan on using anti seize on the glow plugs' threads, still debating standard grey nickel, or high temp copper, will probably be the one I find in the shop first.

I say 1/2 turn from 120 to 130 but it might have only been 1/3. I was very very careful and applied pressure in very light little tip of fingers nudges and retested the wrench's click on the rocker arm bolts if the ratchet part of the torque wrench rotated any during those last incremental nudges. In my mind by the 3rd or 4th injector it felt to me as though the orings or copper washer seated/compressed/bottomed out (call it what you want) in that last 2-5 in/lbs. I turn wrenches quite a lot at work and to me it felt like the bolts had another 15-20 in/lb (Definately not condoning or advertising to go more than I did) before it failed, but whether or not it strips the threads or cracks the cups or something first and causes the repeated F-bomb and money hemmorage is anyone's hindsight guess.

 

I have popped many VCs on several engines, and I have never once found the injector bolts at torque spec from the factory. The only VCs I can pop and be sure the torque spec will be there are my own. I found a way to make them stop backing off with time and miles.

I have read many threads and have had several personal experiences where after torquing injectors down, the comments of a quieter engine are first on the agenda. ScottTahoe and I once played a round of dueling torque wrenches, and we both saw what a big difference 1/2 turn made.

I have been beating the drum of loose injectors for years, and while I'm in no position to decry "See, the sky is falling" - I can say I've done my due diligence to prompt me to announce "It can't hurt to look".

Inexpensive multimeters sometimes don't zero. If you can say for sure that the "zero" reading never drifts from... say... 0.4 ohms, then subtracting that 0.4 ohms is about your only option. Ideally, you want zero to be zero... but the problems with reading zero are an issue with the leads or an issue with the meter.

 

Omg, just wow. Yeah, hate to sound repetitive Rich, but wow, it's so quiet its like its a different or new truck. Still in shock. Had to take a 30 mile cruise with the radio and ac off and widows down. Oh and that one long stretch when I held 26# of boost to test the clamps on the boots Rather em blow of when im expecting it than towing the 5er with the family in 2 weeks.

Of course, I forgot pics
First thing I changed glow plugs and torqued em all down to 14 ft# with anti sieze, then plugged in block heater and finished getting it ready to hot torque, put the valve covers in place with a bolt semi loose on each side of the wire harness and one on the bottom middle for both sides, hooked up batteries then started Torque pro, the EBP sensor matched the map perfectly, double checked the serpentine belt for any obstructions and fired it up, no oil leaks, so switched it to high idle tune, still no leaks, turbo looked neat spinning away.

Figured I had 30 minutes to kill so grabbed the simple green and cleaned the oily CAC tubes, boots, clamps and everything else that was still removed. Once oil and coolant finally got up to operating temp i left it idling there another ten minutes for the hay of it and finished cleaning parts. Got out the torque wrench and the other tools I'd need to use quickly and got ready to jump in quick once I shut it down. Yanked neg cables, 42 pin, and valve covers in about 3 minutes, retorqued all the injectors again saying "oww hot" to the dogs couple times. All the injectors needed another 2-3 inches of handle movement to click again. Waited for everything to cool down so I cleaned the doghouse and valve covers and drank some coffee. Torqued valve covers to 98 in#, Sprayed some hairspray on the tubes, and buttoned everything back up, double checked everything I had touched in last two nights, and told the dogs there weren't any leftover parts; they were unimpressed.

Looked at the time, figured I'd rather not start the fuel bowl orings till my next nights off, and went for the quietest drive I've ever had in this truck. Thanks for all the help FTE

Edit; Oh duh, the main reason I went under was the bucking and stalling acting like the UVCH was coming unplugged, did the 50 cent mod, and never had the SES light come on, or any stalls or hiccups of any kind while idling for about 45 min or during the morning cruise

 

Congrats and thanks for the follow-up!

 

That's awesome! Feels good to wrench on the truck and see the results! What was the hairspray for?

 

Hairspray on the CAC tubes only where the boots contact is recommended on here to keep the boots from blowing off after reinstalling and running high boost during towing & such. Apparently it makes a very loud bang/pop and immediate power loss if one comes off under pressure, followed by changing your pants or flattening out the seat where it was pinched by your spinchter