That would explain why I can't see it.

 

Are you capable of seeing the link I posted though?

 

That I am. And I read it. Sounds like maybe if Alliant built the Motorcraft originals, as I have been told that that may be a rote to look into.

 

What would cause the truck to run at a higher idle for a couple minutes at startup? It's 44 degrees and it sits at about 1000 for a minute and a half two minutes then drops to normal idle. Is it just tripping the high idle because of the ambient temperature?

 

There is a high idle built into the PCM programming if the conditions are right. It will warm the engine up to a specified value and then bring the idle back down.

Very similar to how some of us have a manual selected high idle, the truck will do this on its own if it sees fit.

 

This may be a stupid question. But is there a way to test to see if injectors are functioning properly with out fully removing them?

 

Yes, check armature clearance, should be a tight .004 to a loose .003 filler gauge. After that they have to be fully disassemble which IMO only a pro should do it.

 

The only quantitative test I know of is the CCT, but even that has qualifiers, such as stock fuel system & injector #8 and the CPS. Beyond that you need a good data logger and running some highway WOT tests and asking someone here on the forum - not me - too look over your data.

 

Can someone with a fair amount of shop experience replace injectors in these engine though?

 

Someone with no shop experience can replace injectors in these things - that being most of us the first time we had to do it. It's just tedious, and a DIY'er can do them all in a day. Although I prefer one day to remove and clean, and the second to install when rested and no longer grumpy. There is a lot of PM stuff that can be done on the way in and while buttoning things up, which most shops won't do. And no special tools are needed, beyond something to clear the fuel/oil out of the cylinders. The hardest part may very well be reaching some of those valve cover bolts!

Any shop can do it, but if they shove them in quickly they can damage the very orings that will send you back in there later.

 

Ok, that is what I thought. I'm really fussy about how things go back together and I don't know how much I trust the local shops.

 

If you want it done right, then do it yourself. There's enough information out there to do nearly anything you need to do on this motor, you just have to be patient and find it.

 

That's why I bought it

 

Do it yourself. You'll be glad you did and you'll be able to see under the valve covers and know your truck even better. You have plenty of good help here, including myself, to get you through.

 

Absolutely do them yourself. You won't have to worry if they were done correctly. If I can do them surely you can. For me the toughest part is removing the passenger side valve cover. All in all its not that difficult.