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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 12:02 PM
  #166  
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That is true. Could a dirty nozzle cause a noise? Would it show up on a scanner if there was one?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 05:45 AM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by Wesley Green
Sort sorry it didn't quiet it down for you. doing the H&H and RR FRx mods will make it much quieter if you haven't already
Air in the fuel will cause an injector noise. These mods that Wesley suggested will take care of that and are worth the time. Both are fairly inexpensive and easy to do.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 09:06 AM
  #168  
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Dipstick tube

I will look into them. When I was taking the passenger valve cover off I bent the engine oil dipstick tube. The stud turned but not the nut that was holding the bracket on. I've read that this is an easy fix. Can a new one just be popped into the flange on the side of the pan? Nothing is leaking I just can't get the dipstick back in very well.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 09:22 AM
  #169  
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You can replace the dipstick tube. There's an o-ring on the end of the tube that goes into the flange, but I had a bear of a time getting my tube back in with the new o-ring. I gave up because I was afraid of bending the tube, and I re-installed it with the old o-ring, but it leaks. I haven't tried again, living with a small drip for years now.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 10:36 AM
  #170  
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Good deal. I wanted to make sure it wasn't a pull the pan kind of job. I'd imagine you could put some sort of seal around it if it leaked couldn't you?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 01:02 PM
  #171  
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Yeah, I suppose I could, probably the same RTV everyone recommends for the stock intake plenums and the oil pan itself. I just haven't felt like crawling under there and messing with it again. There are some really ugly pictures of RTV'd dipstick flange repairs on this site. One of these days, I'll post an ugly one myself...
 
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 06:17 AM
  #172  
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Haha. Yeah it's definitely ugly. Thank you for your response.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 09:28 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by SaintITC
You can replace the dipstick tube. There's an o-ring on the end of the tube that goes into the flange, but I had a bear of a time getting my tube back in with the new o-ring. I gave up because I was afraid of bending the tube, and I re-installed it with the old o-ring, but it leaks. I haven't tried again, living with a small drip for years now.
I didn't have a new o-ring when I went to re-install so tried to use old one. It was swollen and stretched so it did not want to go back in. Went and bought a new one at FORD (it's a special o-ring with a bevel on it) and the tube went in no problem.

Originally Posted by SaintITC
Yeah, I suppose I could, probably the same RTV everyone recommends for the stock intake plenums and the oil pan itself. I just haven't felt like crawling under there and messing with it again. There are some really ugly pictures of RTV'd dipstick flange repairs on this site. One of these days, I'll post an ugly one myself...
Mine is one of those pictures. I only had weeping at the pan so opted to slather some TA-31 around the nut instead of try the repair. It's under the truck and hidden by the starter so as long as it works I don't care what it looks like...and it doesn't look pretty!

Picture in Post #14: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html
 
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 02:46 PM
  #174  
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Got it. Good deal. Probably order one soon because it interferes with my paranoid oil checking.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 10:47 AM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by HD Rider
Air in the fuel will cause an injector noise. These mods that Wesley suggested will take care of that and are worth the time. Both are fairly inexpensive and easy to do.
You can do the fuel rail crossover and not a whole regulated return kit that deletes the fuel bowl correct? I talked with someone on Riffraff about #8 being AD code and not AE and they said that you'd want FRx and regulated return because it's AD. I like the $180 FRx tag over the $600 regulated return tag. I assume H&H is the hutch/harpoon mod I've heard of?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 10:57 AM
  #176  
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Yes, you can install the RiffRaff FRx which will help with fuel supply. A regulated return is better, but much more money.

H&H is Hutch/Harpoon and is highly recommended by anyone that has done it, including me.

The AD injector in #8 will work, it will be a bit louder than an AE.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 11:04 AM
  #177  
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Good. Thank you for clarifying that for me. Did you install an inline filter?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 12:10 PM
  #178  
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Insider the fuel tank there's a pickup foot, with a screen or strainer to prevent big stuff from going to the fuel pump. The fuel pump has another, finer built-in strainer to protect it. The problem is if you get debris inside your tank, or the pickup foot degrades or falls off (it's plastic) you have to drop the tank to fix it. The H&H mod essentially relocates this in-tank strainer to the outside, between the tank and the pump, where it can be inspected and easily cleaned / replaced. You don't want to use an actual filter here though, as a filter is too restrictive for the pump to draw fuel threw.

Due to #8's location after #6 in the firing order and physically behind it, the AE came out as a TSB replacement for the original equipment (OE) AD injector (and AF injectors for e99's with AB's) early on, until the AE finally became OE in 2002.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 12:26 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by MTP55
Good. Thank you for clarifying that for me. Did you install an inline filter?
No, I installed the Racor strainer that is a popular addition. It mimics the strainers which are currently inside the tank, but allows you to see debris and clean it within seconds if needed.

Adding a second filter is not required and can put undue stress on the pump. Some people prefer to add a second filter, but I saw no need.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 01:34 PM
  #180  
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That would explain why the stock injectors in my truck, a 2000, are all AD then.

​​​​​​Ok. I just saw the inline canister deal that RR has available to compliment the hutch mod and didn't know if that was a necessary addition.
 
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