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That is actually a 1982 *only* Mustang GT air cleaner. It was made to fit over the Motorcraft 2150 2V carburetor that was available that year. Note the decal reads "5.0 Liter H.O."
The 1983 - 1985 Mustang GT got the Motorcraft (Holley) 4180 4V carburetor, and also the larger air cleaner that was found on the 460 and 5.8 H.O. engines. Like the 1982 air cleaner shown above, a second snorkel was added on the passenger's side for the Mustang. The proper decal for these would read "5.0 Liter 4V H.O."
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
351HO, but with an added snorkel. This is the one I mocked up for Dad's truck.
18" in diameter
Takes a 12 1/2" by 2 1/2" filter
Steel base and aluminum lid
Basic V8:
16" in diameter
Takes an 11" x 2 1/2" filter
Aluminum base, that always seems to crack, and aluminum lid
5.0 Liter H.O. (1982 Mustang GT):
16" in diameter
Takes an 11" x 2 1/2" filter
Steel base that's essentially the same as the basic units, but in steel, and basically the same aluminum lid as the basic unit
Thanks, Rick. So that's an '82 Mustang unit. Good to know.
My plan is to have it read 7.5 Liter 4V H.O. But, both of the outfits that I've contacted have said they can't do custom labels. Guess I'll have to have it made locally.
Made some progress on the air cleaner today. Had gotten in the flanged-button-head screws earlier in the week, so spent some time using them. I removed the plastic insulator on the front of the base by grinding off the back side of the rivets. Then I ran the air cleaner base through the blast cabinet to get the flaky black paint off - and it just blew off, faster than you could put it on with a rattle can.
Then I laid out the new opening, cut it out, and bent the lips out similar to how the manufacturer did it. And then put the snorkels and insulator with the new screws, and took some pics. One of these day's I'll get the right powder and nyloc nuts and put it together.
Here's a shot showing the two openings, with the new one being the one on the left. Obviously I've not cut the screws yet, and won't do that until I get the nuts so I know exactly how long the screws should be.
This one shows the insulator and snorkels on and their fasteners.
And, here's a closeup of the fasteners. Just imagine everything black and blacker.
As I was looking at Big Blue today I realized that there was something odd with the radiator support. As you can see below, inside the red circle, the radiator support has been cut to allow the hoses to the engine oil cooler to go through. And, if you look closely you can see that they used a split hose to protect the foam around the hose, but the hose has slipped and now the cut edge is against the foam.
You would think they would have cleaned that up, but then there were so many other things they should have done and didn't. It would look better if I could find a rubber cap and use just one hose clamp. But, if the neck is brass I could solder a copper cap on it.
You would think they would have cleaned that up, but then there were so many other things they should have done and didn't. It would look better if I could find a rubber cap and use just one hose clamp. But, if the neck is brass I could solder a copper cap on it.
So, what was that connection for?
That's a GREAT question. I have that on my radiator as well, and this is what I found out:
That connection was used on the later 1992 - 1996 fuel injected trucks. Earlier, original 1985 - 1991 radiators didn't have that connection at all. But when you buy a replacement radiator, it will have the connection so it can fit a larger range of vehicles, i.e. 1985 to 1996 trucks.
A short piece of rubber hose connected there with a metal pipe on the other end. The pipe ran across the top of the radiator and ended with another piece of rubber hose that connected to the throttle body on the later 1992 - 1996 EFI engines:
Earlier 1985 - 1991 EFI engines accomplished the same thing by simply running a hose from the throttle body and teeing into one of the heater hoses.
Some say it is there to provide heat to the throttle body.
Others say it is there to eliminate air pockets in the cooling system.
Still others say it is to warm up the transmission fluid faster on the later computer-controlled automatic transmissions, as it connects right above the transmission cooler in the radiator.
Thanks, guys. I'd wondered about that fitting, but now I know.
Yes, BB had so much potential and yet the execution was really poor. I really feel sorry for Vernon. He had such good plans, but yet he couldn't get people to buy into those plans and do quality work. But, BB now has a new lease on life and we will get those problems sorted, eventually. I hope Vernon is reading this and can take some comfort that things will finally get done "right". My vision is not the same as his vision, but I believe they are close enough that the final product will be something he can be proud of.
Cienega - Thanks. I wanted something that looked like Ford would have done it that way, and these seemed to fit the bill.
That fitting was used on the first of the EFI 460s for throttle body heat, then for some unknown reason continued only on 460s with E4OD. The Windsor engines I have seen had the source for the heat on the heater supply elbow and it seems the return went to the heater return hose through a tee. Mine runs from the heater return to the fitting on the radiator (strange routing) but with the engine running water will come out of the small hole under the cap.
On your oil cooler hoses, mine run under the radiator support with a clamp to keep them in place from the same adapter as Big Blue.
Bill - So Darth has an engine oil cooler. And it uses the same adapter. Cool! I did discover when decoding the build sheet that Big Blue came with an engine oil cooler from the factory - along with dual batteries, trailer/camper wiring, handling package, etc.
I was scoping out exactly the route you described yesterday. It looks like there is a nice straight shot just between the lower radiator hose and the sector box, and between the radiator support and the crossmember that the swaybars fasten to. I can use 90 degree fittings at the adapter to get the lines going forward rather than vertical. And instead of the cooler running horizontally, as it currently does, I can run it vertically. That gives a much shorter run of hose and eliminates the problem of the cooler being too thick to fit between the grille and the hood latch support - which the installer handled by hacking up the grille.
