Good idea. My plan was to solder or braze the nuts on the inside, but your idea would be easier, and it would allow me to put a washer between the nut and the housing.

Speaking of that, I just had a flashback to my '58 Impala and my college days. According to Hot Rod, the seats for the WCFB didn't flow enough to satisfy my 348 at full chat. So the trick was to drill the seat out to a larger size and then drop a steel ball on the inside and tap it with a punch to ensure there wasn't a wire edge that would cut the needle.

Now, in spite of my 348's valve springs floating at 4400 RPM, I thought it needed more fuel so I drilled the seats out. And then, out on a date, it happened - it flooded out. And, on top of that the engine was cold so the choke was coming on.

Being the resourceful guy I was, I used the little aluminum secondary lockout tab, which was conveniently laying on the intake manifold, to hold the choke open, got in, floored it, and hit the key. It started right up but made an awful clanking sound.

So, Bill, you finish the story for the young 'uns. What happened? And why was a W-shaped gasket involved in the repair?

 

I would say either something from the WCFB got pulled down the intake, or you floated the valves and popped a rocker arm. The W-shaped gasket was for the valve cover obviously.

Trivia question for you, other than the 348/409/Z-11 Chevy engines, what other car and truck engines had slanted deck blocks and machined combustion chambers?

 

The secondary lockout tab was freed when the choke was opened as I floored the throttle. It dropped through the cab, into the intake, and into a cylinder, where it was mashed into a little wad of aluminum. The W-shaped gasket was the valve cover, which was pulled to get to the head bolts.

But, I don't know the answer to the trivia question.

 

MEL 383, 410, 430 & 462 car engines, 401, 477 & 534 SD truck engines, all FOMOCO.

 

Haven't been around any MEL's. Loved my 348 though. Pulled like a tractor - kinda like Big Blue's 460 does, but not nearly as strong as the 460.

Drove BB to church tonight. It isn't very far, but it is still fun to drive this truck. It runs really well, although converting the choke over to 12v has it coming off just slightly too early. And, the fuel gauge sure is wonky. On the way to church it showed 5/8, which is probably right. But on the way home it was back to Full.

 

Gary, you are missing a piece on Big Blue's AC compressor.



See the line brace from the two rear bolts?

I found that one, complete with the clamp and bolt for you in my extra parts.

 

Yes, I am missing that - and didn't even know it. In fact, I didn't even know that existed, but do see it in the illustration. Thanks!!

 

Given the discussion on another thread about PMGR starters and their relay wiring, I rewired Big Blue's wiring today, as shown here: PMGR Starter Wiring - ???Gary's Garagemahal. Now the fender-mounted relay is carrying very little current and should last forever.

 

Copycat! Huge improvement on Darth when I went to a PMGR starter. BTW, when that high dollar performance one quits, just get the appropriate late model 460 one (should also work on 351M/400 engines) and stick in in.

 

Big Blue came with this one, so I don't know how big the improvement was. But they didn't bother to use its full capability and the original relay was still handling all the draw.

Anyway, I do agree about using a late model unit when this one quits. And, that's what I'll be using on Dad's truck as well.

 

Now that I am on my computer to see how it gets wired it is the same way my RobbMc starter Welcome to RobbMc Performance Products in my AMC drag car is wired.
That starter is made in the USA and his customer service is top notch when needed, and no I have not needed to use it.


BTW they also make fuel pumps for different HP motors along with other items that we may be able to use on our trucks.
Dave ----

 

I got to ask, that late model starter a gear drive and if so does it use a different flywheel / flex plate?


I ask because IIRC the Jeep late model 258 six starter is a gear drive but you have to use the matching flywheel / flex plate for the teeth to mesh right as the drive throw is different between them.
Dave ----

 

With 460's the old style bendix starters are the same, but the PMGR starters are specific for manual or automatic applications.

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According to Warn's website the premium locking hubs are a match for Whitey.



Just wish it would have crossed my mind to check on the application the other day when I had one side tore all the way down to the spindle to swap a rotor.

Part number 38826 fits the D50 D60 and D70.

 

Excellent! Yes, that would have been a good time to install one.

And, while thinking of manual locking hubs, I'll tell y'all about the problems of auto-locking hubs. Blue, my 2015 F150, has the high-end driveline with 2wd, 4auto, 4hi, and 4lo. All controlled by a little **** on the dash. No need to get out and lock the hubs when you've already gotten stuck.

Well, over the last few thousand miles there have been several times when on startup there's been a weird noise from right ahead of the driver. It lasts for a few seconds and sometimes ends with a thud that can be felt. Tuesday morning we left Georgetown, CO at 5:30 AM and as we rolled onto I-70 it did it several times, but then quit. But, when we pulled out of Salina, Kansas onto I-135 it did it again for 30 miles at 75 MPH. We got three recordings of it and posted one on the 2015+ forum, and several guys came back to say it's the IWE.

Huh? IWE? Turns out that stands for Integrated Wheel End, and that is a fancy locking hub controlled by vacuum. And if there's a vacuum problem it tries to engage the hub. So, mine appears to have been trying to engage for 30 miles. I can't imagine what the part looks like after all that grinding.

So, manual locking hubs may be old school, and may require you to get out of the truck at the worst possible time, but they work.