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it was the later version with Elizabeth Hurley where the devil was a she)[/SIZE] played with Big Blue the same way. Fill that crankcase up with gas. Make that heater core split. Put that seal in the PS pump cockeyed. Make that brand new one-wire alternator fail. Break that plastic hinge on the heater. Touch that T-19 so it dribbles. Oh, and for the best one of all, make that 460 leak from every orifice it has.
Sounds like a certain red '58 Plymouth Fury......be nice to him
Drove Big Blue to take the air cleaner top up to John, my body/paint guy, so he can take some of the dings out of it. And that gave us a chance to compare notes on when he paints Big Blue. I've found some surface rust on the rear of the bed "down under", but John says that'll be no problem as he'll take the bed off and work it over. And, he will paint down to and including the lip on the inside of the fenders, so I'll clean below the lip.
Anyway, that truck sure runs good, and driving him is a joy. In fact, as I keep peeling the onion the # of rattles is decreasing dramatically. And yesterday's work on the jack provided a significant reduction in rattles and clunks. Which leads me to three questions:
First question: What weatherstripping foam tape do you recommend? I need some 3/4" wide foam tape to use as weatherstripping on the big tool box in BB's bed. The original foam is gone, and the lids rattle. I put some of the camper weatherstripping tape I have on and was able to quieten it down for a while, but that tape squished and the rattle is back. So, what material is better for cushioning things?
Next question: Where can I find some 5mm-1.0mm nuts? The snorkels are held onto the air cleaner body by 5mm-1.0mm self-tapping screws threaded into the sheetmetal of the body. That's sorta ok on the original snorkel position as the hole was punched in and there's about twice as much metal that has been tapped. But, where I drilled for the new opening there's no extra metal and I want to use nuts to back the metal up. However, I haven't found them online. And, I've checked Fastenal and Clips & Fasteners and they don't have them. (I realize another option would be to drill and tap the holes to something larger, like 1/4-20 and use a common nut on the backside. But, .....)
Last Question: Think the fuel sender float is catching? Today the fuel gauge started working. As a refresher, heretofore the gauge has shown Full & Fuller. One time when I knew the tank was almost empty the gauge started the day at 1/8 tank when it had been showing Full. Today it started out on Full but after a mile or so it suddenly dropped to about 5/8 tank, which is probably about right for 75 miles. So, do you think the float is catching or sticking?
I gave up on 5-1.0mm nuts, and ordered these Button Flange Socket Head Cap Screws in stainless. The flange will give much more surface area w/o an ugly washer, and the stainless just means it ain't gonna rust as I'll powder-coat them black so they don't shine against the black base.
Use the fasteners you can get easily, leave it at that.
I forget the year here but I went through some gas gauge stuff kinda like this on my 1981... it was when I was just beginning with that thing and wasn't taking pictures and posting here yet...
My 1981 sender was effectively a curved popsicle stick with a hair-thin wire wrapped around it (the variable resistor), that wire breaks and floats around *****-nilly and can cause all sorts of weirdness on the gauge.
In general, I have had poor luck with Spectra Premium aftermarket fuel sender stuff, especially when electric pumps there become involved.
I gave up on 5-1.0mm nuts, and ordered these Button Flange Socket Head Cap Screws in stainless. The flange will give much more surface area w/o an ugly washer, and the stainless just means it ain't gonna rust as I'll powder-coat them black so they don't shine against the black base.
Thanks, but I didn't find any 5mm-1.00. Lots of .80MM threads, but not 1.00MM. Did I miss something?
Anyway, I'm really happy with my flanged button-head screws as the flange does away with the need for a washer, and the size of the flange is much larger than the flange on the screws Ford used. And the button-head bit makes them look smoother.
Thanks, but I didn't find any 5mm-1.00. Lots of .80MM threads, but not 1.00MM. Did I miss something?
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No. I just wanted to point you to a good source for fasteners.
I went through that site looking and did not see a 5mm x1.00 in any fastener type. The 5mmx.80 is listed as a course thread but I have yet to see a fine thread in this size.
Use the fasteners you can get easily, leave it at that.
I forget the year here but I went through some gas gauge stuff kinda like this on my 1981... it was when I was just beginning with that thing and wasn't taking pictures and posting here yet...
My 1981 sender was effectively a curved popsicle stick with a hair-thin wire wrapped around it (the variable resistor), that wire breaks and floats around *****-nilly and can cause all sorts of weirdness on the gauge.
In general, I have had poor luck with Spectra Premium aftermarket fuel sender stuff, especially when electric pumps there become involved.
Sorry Chris, somehow I missed this. The 1/4-20's sure are lots easier to get than 5-1.0's, so I'm happy with that approach.
As for the gas gauge, it is strange - every once in a while it reads correctly and then it goes back to Full or Fuller. I don't know what brand sender Vernon had put in, but I'm pretty sure there's a Spectra and a NOS unit in the stash, so when I get to that I'll choose the NOS. Thanks.
Well guys, I'm finishing things up in the shop before I get really busy on other things for a few days. And I thought I'd simulate the flanged button-head screws to see how they will work with the snorkels. The pictures below show you what it'll sorta look like, but I have to say that going with 1/4-20 hardware and backing the air cleaner base up with a nut is certainly the right decision. I was finally able to cinch the screws down tight enough to make the snorkels solid on the base. Heretofore the snorkels could be moved up or down w/o flexing the base, regardless of how tight I dared make the 5mm screws since they were only tightening into the wall of the base. But, the nut on the 1/4-20 bolt means you can torque things much tighter, and the result is a very solid mount.
Gary, I would either put loctite or self locking nuts inside. Even though the element is in there, I never liked the thought of loose items in my intake tract.
In fact, as I keep peeling the onion the # of rattles is decreasing dramatically. And yesterday's work on the jack provided a significant reduction in rattles and clunks. Which leads me to three questions:
