Sounds good. Just got my truck home and will tear into it between thunderstorms today. I don't need any more fuel flow in this Eseries - they come tuned down to prevent overheats in this tiny engine compartment.

 

Have you thought of joining AAA and then getting a "free" tow home??

 

Yeah, a friend even offered to use his membership to get me home, but AAA doesn't include commercial vehicles in the program, and even though this ambulance is for personal use, they still call it a commercial vehicle.

But, I got it home now. Went to the Home Depot where a bunch of day laborers hang out looking for work and found one with a truck to pull me home for $50.

"Adapt and overcome" I always say.

 

Dang, I watched a vid on taking the shroud and fan off an Eseries, but they skip right over the part about taking the front half of the shroud off and I can't figure out how to do it. They go from having it all in place to having the front off and then hit the fan nut and unloosen the back half of the shroud to pull all that out at the same time.

But the back half goes inside the front half, and there's not enough room between it and the radiator to pull it back and out.

Was trying not to have to put the grill, condenser, and radiator. I can see the fan nut though, if I had the right tool, I could take it off and then pull everything out at once.

Can't get a pipe wrench on the fan nut with the shroud there, so can't beat on it as Sean suggested. Wonder whether I can get a long chisel and instead of an air hammer, use a sledge hammer to hit it? I have a cheapo air hammer, but I had to leave my truck at the end of my driveway in order to get the pull truck back out, so my air compressor doesn't reach. Not sure if that air hammer is strong enough any way or any stronger than a sledge.

Either way, need a long chisel, so I'll go buy that.

 

Did you remove the top radiator support bolts and pull the wiring harness out form the front of the radiator? That allows you to pull the radiator forward giving you clearance to remove the shroud. Although, the hood on the E might still be in the way.

 

If you need a top cowl cover(the one by the hood latch) I have one. I bought it off e bay brand new cause the guy listed it for a F series and wouldn't take it back. I'll sell it cheap.

 

Cant use a sledge hammer that way. Your after a lot of little whacks and not
one big whack. You don't want to bend the pump shaft.
Have you look through all the videos from SrMasterTech and DieselTechRon?
One of them is bound to have something.

I can see why you having problems and will post a PDF of the E-350 fan shroud.
There looks to be two bolts on the bottom side of the thing also.

I was not sure on the E-series number of your so I used the E-350. Let me know
if you ned other info because I can now get at the PDFs again.



Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

The front shroud is easy, remove the 2 bolts underneath that bolt the lower shroud to the front one. Drain the coolant, remove the upper hose, the small hose to the degas bottle and just the bracket for the ps res. Next remove the 2 brackets that secure the rad to the core support, and the 2 bolts from the upper shroud to the rad. Now you can pull the shroud out. Next, remove the intake hose from the air filter. Now loosen both clamps on the drivers side cac tube and pull it out from under the intake hose. loosen the clamp at the pass side cac tube at the innercooler and pop hose off.
Remove the 2 bolts at the top from the ac condenser to the rad. Now you just have the lower hose clamp and the 2 trans cooler lines in the lower front of the rad. I Have a short piece of 1/2'' tube ready for them. Pull the 2 cooler lines off and stick the tube between them quick to avoid a big puddle.
Now you can lift the rad and innercooler out as one part. Now after you find a longer chisel, you can run your compressor to fill it then unplug it full and bring it to the van and knock the fan loose. Only 4 bolts left ans the inner shroud is off and you can get to everything up front.

 

And by the way, when you get the 2 belts off, Remove the outter belt tensioner and bracket behind it. Then the lower alt, don't bother taking the mount bolts out they suck. Just remove the 4 bolts on the mount bracket to the right head and pull it off with the bracket. Your banjo bolt is behind that bracket.

 

You nailed it, Sean. I'd never seen those extra two bolts on my trucks. That did let me get the front half out.

However, it's been a tough day, and as usual, I've prolly made a Bonehead mistake...

When I couldn't get the shroud off, I decided to see how much I could pull off the front of the engine. Since I'm only going for the fuel lines, and only need to, possibly, see/change one, I thought I might be able to get there with fan/shroud in place. Suspecting my problem was the passenger side, I started there.

Cleared out the CAC tubes, air intake, front CAC housing, and top alternator. The lower alternator was a beach - the back side bolts were major pain. Had to get two out then rotate it to get the third. Lets me see the top half of the fuel line and it all looks fine. Disappears behind the tensioner pulleys, so I start taking them off. Got a couple, but can't get the third. However, I can see/feel almost all of the fuel line and I don't feel any crimp. Figure I still need to take it off and blow it out, but I switch over to the other side to see if I can find a crimp.

This one disappears behind the thermostat, a heater hose, and some more tensioners. But, I can't get those off with the stator in the way. So, I'm back at square one. Mess with the fan nut for a little bit, but none of my tools will work, so I figure I'll come in from the front. Take off the grill, grill support, lights, turn signals, tranny cooler, some other cooler, and the core support, but I'm stuck at the radiator because the fan shroud won't let it out.

Try to get the condenser out in front, but it's attached at the bottom - that's what the two shroud bolts go into I think. Take those out, and off comes the shroud!! And good news - this Eseries doesn't have that dang transmission lines that need the special disconnect tool that I can never get to work right. Just have squeeze clamps. Get the radiator all lose, but it's just too heavy for me to lift out. So, I disconnect the CAC cooler, another PITA, but I get it. Finally got it all out.

But really, it doesn't provide all the room I'll need. I still need to get the stator and fan out of the way. It's late though, so I work a bit on the driver's side - get a pulley off and with a bunch of work because the screw clamp won't loosen, the heater hose.

My bonehead mistake - how can I get the fan nut off now with no belts to keep the fan from turning?

I still can't see the fuel line. There's a big bracket covering up the banjo - it had the pulley and heater hose shield mounted to it, and has the power steering pump hanging off the side. It's got three stud/bolts holding it on and none of my wrenches, American or metric fit them. From what I can tell, it's an 18MM??? Do they even sell that size?

Honestly, I'm thinking that I'm doing all this for nothing. I don't see any evidence of a crimp so far. But still, I gotta go the rest of the way. Take em both off and blow them out. Then pull the plugs on back of the heads and blow through there, I guess.

I do see a mess up from earlier. The driver's side fuel line had a small clip that attached it to one of the thermostat bolts. When I was putting the cooler back together, I noticed that something was missing from that bolt, but I couldn't figure out what. Now, with all the stuff out of the way, I can see that little clip - it slid down the fuel line. But, that fuel line is now behind the main and return fuel lines - I must have gotten them twisted, which could, I guess, be the source of my crimp problem, if I have one.

Anyway, long painful day. Lots of work, but I still got lots to go, and then putting it all back together.

Do y'all think the fan nut can still be removed, or am I going to have to put all the pulleys/belts back on? I guess there's a chance I can get to the driver's side banjo without removing the fan, and if that is crimped or, if I can get it off, stopped up, I may not have to take the passenger side off, although I'd be risking it being bad too.

 

Does the E-Series have slots cut into the pulley? I stuck a regular striking pry bar into one of the oblong holes and used a huge crowfoot to get the fan clutch off. I've seen people stick long (12+") 3/8" extension into the holes also.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Discusses the pulley slots and shows the real tool at 3:20. Uses a pry bar at 5:00, shows the pulley with the clutch off to see it better:

 

Well, too late, I took all the alt bolts off - major pain - but I thought about that just taking the bracket off. Just couldn't find the last bracket bolt. I can tell where it is because the bracket will swivel a little bit. Two are very visible, and a third was on the left just behind a pulley, but the last one seems to be behind the inner tensioner (? going from memory now) and I got tired of trying to figure out how to find/get it off and switched to the other side. Also, I could see the banjo at that point, and see/feel the entire fuel line and didn't see a crimp, so I moved on. With the fan and stator still in the way, it gets frustrating.

But, I assume from what you're saying that it's possible to get that tensioner off. If I don't find a crimp on the other side, I'll have to take both lines off and blow them out, so I'll be back on that tensioner.

Thanks.

 

Thanks, Don. Not sure if other Eseries have that, but my two are ambulances and the batteries are in a compartment on the back box. There is no wiring harness behind the radiator. I do recall that from the trucks though. Definitely helps with them.

 

I didn't notice those slots, but I'll look in the morning. For some reason, my Firefox browser keeps crashing with vids. Will boot up IE and look at this in a minute. Gotta go walk my dog, he's been suffering all day.

 

Lower alt.

Heres a pic of the lower alt, outer tensioner and its bracket.