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Does the engine fire up for a few seconds with Brake Parts Cleaner sprayed into the air intake and cranking the engine?
I didn't want to try this, but the dealer tech did with ether and said it started. Makes us think it's fuel issue - just like Torreador Diesel said when he came out and looked at it for me.
Heres a pic of mine. The banjo bolt is behind the lower alt mounting bracket. And the upper alt is on top of the line. Do you have a harbor freight near you ? Maybe you can pick up an air hammer cheep and a 12'' chisel bit there. I measured my fan hub, its 1 7/8 or about 48mm if you want to try the wrench and hammer deal.
[QUOTE=Yahiko;16743210]There is not room in there. How did they think anyone can work on it?
Or maybe they did not think. Vans are different, I always said it's like working up the backside of an elephant. Burry your arms up to your shoulders and work by feel, stopping occasionally to clean the blood off your hands or arm. lol
When I was 17 I worked at a BP Procare. All the vans that came in, I got to do the work on. All the other techs didn't want to work on them. After the 1st 4 vans, I found ways to do things that didnt kill me!
When I was 17 I worked at a BP Procare. All the vans that came in, I got to do the work on. All the other techs didn't want to work on them. After the 1st 4 vans, I found ways to do things that didnt kill me!
I think once you understand that to do anything, you have to remove all the stuff visible when you open the hood, your expectation level is more realistic. And with all that out of the way, you can manage, but it's still painful. The one that gets me is having to remove motor mounts to replace the injectors. Those are a maintenance item - you will have to replace them at some point. To buy a vehicle knowing you'll have to remove a motor mount and lower the engine some day is a pretty hard decision.
When I was 17 I worked at a BP Procare. All the vans that came in, I got to do the work on. All the other techs didn't want to work on them. After the 1st 4 vans, I found ways to do things that didnt kill me!
My first vehicle was a 60-something Chevy van with a non-running straight 6. But that had plenty of room; it wasn't a doghouse, it had a flat nose, no hood, and the seats were in front of the engine.
Lots of great advice, but to the Original Poster, use a 24mm (I think) socket on the upper fuel filter cap, do NOT stick the wrench 3/8 drive directly in the square hole!
You won't have to buy another cap this way.
Fuel pressure is a key gauge to add, with the sender of course. It is so easy to NOT get the lower fuel filter cap on tight enough to keep air out. With a fuel pressure gauge I can tell without cranking if I have proper fuel pressure.
Threads like this, are the perfect example of why my signature reads as it does. I already served my sentence working on my share of these pieces of turds on wheels when they were under warranty, showing up on my doorstep needing oil and EGR coolers, along with all the fun stuff that usually broke on a 6.0L. By the time my day was finished after being into one of these for a day, my belly was usually scarred and scratched up real good.
But back to the topic at hand, why did you not remove the right side fuel line when you pulled the intake? If I recall correctly, I used to pull the intake in through the doghouse opening, after removing the turbo and oil filter adapter. It's been awhile since I've been into one of these, so please excuse my memory. As for the passenger side valve cover, I used to remove the first six body to frame mounts, lift the front part of the body just until a 2 x 4 piece of wood would fit between the right side of the body and the frame to give just enough clearance for the valve cover to slide out. Doing it this way would save the hassle of horsing around with the engine mount.
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