Great! It's that lowest bolt that I couldn't find. It's behind the tensioner and I only found two of the tensioner bolts. This will definitely help when I got back at it. Thanks.

 

Maybe I missed it but you're going through a lot of work and I didn't see anywhere if you confirmed good fuel pressure from the pump at the reservoir?

 

The Eseries check fuel pressure at the rear of the heads - there's no easy way to get a gauge to the reservoir. And, no, it hasn't been checked. The dealer tech didn't have the fittings handy. However, he felt confident that there was good pressure to the regulator and coming out of the regulator. He saw the loss of pressure occurring after the regulator - it was not strong at the rear of the heads when he cracked those plugs while cranking.

One of our respected contributors here, Torreador Diesel, also came over and looked at it and agreed there was ample pressure going into the regulator.

I understand that a definitive pressure test would be best (I assume that has to be done twice - one on each head), but all the strong evidence plus the fact that the engine ran fine before the oil cooler replacement suggests fuel pressure to the regulator is not the problem. With the amount of pressure we're seeing, it should start. Maybe it bogs under load or when revving from low pressure, but it should start.

Logic would also say that it's something I did while replacing the cooler. Runs fine before, won't even start (although it sputters) after. And I didn't mess with the pump. But I did disconnect the lines, and push/bend them around a bit as I was tearing the engine down.

Thanks for your suggestions. It did make me think through this all again, which is good. It's obvious I'm screwed something up, so whatever it turns out to be, I'll confirm my Bonehead rep. If it's fuel pressure to the regulator, I won't feel any more stupid.

 

This is what I mean by where to stick a pry bar or an extension, taken from that video at 5:00-ish. He stuck a regular prybar into the slot on the pulley right by his index finger:

 

Update: had some other chores today, but did get both of the fuel lines off - your pics helped 163Junk! Didn't have to take the fan/stator off, but thanks for the vid TT.

No crimps anywhere. No stoppage in the lines. However, I can't tell about the banjo bolts. How restricted are those supposed to be? Definitely must less flow than the fuel lines. Feel like there's hardly any flow.

I took them up to the dealer tech to see what he thought, but he wasn't much help. Thought I'd go in the parts dept and blow through a new to compare to mine, but they didn't have any in stock. Asked if they could check other dealer's inventory, and they told me another dealer had plenty. So I drove over there, but they claimed not to have any. Asked them to check other dealers, and they said no one in town had any. #%^$^

Left their office and meant to drop the banjo I took in on my floorboard of my car with the other one and fuel lines, but it slipped out of my hand, bounced backwards under my seat, and then, somehow, forward into the heater duct. Had to take out the seat, park on an upslant, and shake the duct to get it to fall back out. $^$^@^

By then it was dark, and I started drinking. FML, lol.

One of y'all here mentioned that you gutted your banjos and/or the screen in the head (?). I asked the dealer tech about doing that, and he said it wouldn't be a problem running, however, the little screen in the end of the banjo is to prevent high pressure fuel from backing up the lines in the event of an injector failure and blowing out the regulator.

So, I'm thinking I'll try to blow them out first, maybe run a thin wire up to clean them out. Is there anything in there that can be damaged? Still, I don't even know if they're plugged at all.

Do I understand correctly that there's also a screen and BB inside each head? Or is the BB in the banjo bolt? I didn't see anything at first glance. The banjo goes an inch or so in, so is it further than that?

Should I also take the back plugs out and blow out the heads? I'm just afraid that I'm not seeing an obvious problem, and if this doesn't work, I don't know what to try next.

 

Something might of gotten into the line when you had the top apart
and is not plugging one of the bolts. One way to see if anything flows through
the bolt is get a bit of cleat vinyl hose that fits snug onto the threaded end
and pull a vacuum on the hose to see if the one flows better than the other.
Also I would blow both of the lines out to just be sure that something is
not hung up in the line. Blow out from the banjo end first. Watch for any seals
that might get lost.

You might want at this point check the fuel pressure. You will have to rig up
a block off for one side and a gauge adaptor for the other side.


BTW I do have a question for you. What E-series do I use when looking up diagrams
for you? E-250 ~ F550 or something like that ??




Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Holy smokes. Can someone PLEASE put a mechanical pressure gauge on this thing to confirm pressure from the pump. With what has been said so far this really needs to be done or you're chasing your tail. Until I see confirmed pressure readings I'm sitting out.

 

I hear you. I don't have the fittings to do any of that right now, and I need to clean up the mess I've created out in the front yard before the home owner's association throws a fit.

My first choice would be to find some new banjo bolts and put this thing back together to see if it starts. Second choice to is remove the clip and screen in the end of these bolts to see if anything is plugging them up, then reassemble. When that doesn't work, I'd put go buy the fittings I need to test the pressure coming out of the pump and coming out the back of the heads.

 

As my sig says, both of these are E450s. Same 6.0s, dual alternators. Identical set-ups and year models.

"Block off one side" do you mean one side of the regulator and test the other side? I was just going to test at the back of the heads, first one side and then the other. Does that make sense? Seems like it'd be an easy rig.

 

I guess I missed the type and was not sure what you have.


Yes, Block one side and take a reading from the other at the regulator.
The one thing about doing it at the regulator is it would rule out the pump.
If you don't and it's low at the back of the head your still going to need to
find if it's the head or the pump.

Also while you have it apart I would go ahead and pull the back of the head plug
and blow out both heads from the back. Use a regulator for the air pressure and
keep it below 75PSI. One other thought you should have someone watch for any
crap blowing out of the head.



Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

These are the part #'s for 6.4 bolts. They will work and should be in stock.
Banjo bolt: W302472 (you need 2 bolts)
Washers: W303659 (you need 4 washers)

 

Great! Thanks so much. I was actually just logging back in after walking the dog to search here for banjo bolt articles. Thought I had read something about upgrades for them. Do they have bigger orifices or something that makes them better? That saves me from trying to disassemble these.

It's disappointing that neither dealership parts guy suggested that upgrade. Both just let me walk out the door disappointed.

 

Cool, I have an air tank with a pressure gauge on it. I'll pump it up to about 60lbs and blow both out first thing tomorrow. Then head to the dealer and buy some 6.4 banjos. How long would I have to blow? Maybe 15 seconds on each head unless I see crap still coming out? I assume all this means I'll have a lot of air in my fuel lines when I put it all together. After priming the regulator, will it take so long to crank the air out that I should pull the FICM relay?

 

Should not take lone to blow out a gallery that is under 24" long and only about
1/4".

You should pull the FICM relay and just key on to run the fuel pump to remove the first
bit of air from the bowl. I might then loosen each plug at the back to let air out when doing
maybe one more key on for each side. Just loosen the plugs and not remove so that the
plug acts to keep the fuel from running out of the head. Torque down and give it a shot.

There still may be some fuel in the injectors to start with. It will be grouchy when it
first starts.

BTW the difference between the two types of bolts is 6.0L has a check valve and the
6.4L does not.



Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Dang, what am I doing wrong? The 6.4 banjos don't look like they'll work. Here's the pic. They have two more holes further down on a longer shoulder. I didn't think the fitting on my fuel line was wide enough to extend over the extra holes, so I didn't buy them. I got back home and looked at the fuel line, and it doesn't seem wide enough. Does it work because the washer covers the extra holes? The threads are shorter, do the extra holes go further into the block? Did the dealer try to give me the wrong banjos?