I didn't remember,put did you do the Blue spring mod to this while it was apart? If so,maybe that's the problem. You might have put something together in the wrong order or left something out. Just thinking out loud,this has gone on too long even taking it to the dealer. They should of had it running in 2 hours.

 

Honestly, I would of never paid that dealer to begin with......$300 for him to assume you have good fuel pressure? Seems like a rip off I could guess from here you have good fuel pressure, just like he did.

If it ran before the work and not after, I would definitely just retrace everything even if that means taking it all back apart again because its something that was touched thats causing it not to start.....

 

That' what I thought. When I got up there, he'd already dove into it, but I'm not sure what he'd checked. He'd called me on the phone to tell me he took the regulator apart and found gunk in the blue spring, but the spring was still good, as were the center stem and o-ring. However, the filter was dirty (I hadn't done anything to the truck since driving it back from the auction in Minnesota, it had a recent oil change sticker on the windshield and city-owned ambulances are usually well maintained) and he wanted me to bring him a new one. He had cleaned it all up and had it back on when I got there, and he said he had determined to his satisfaction that it was getting adequate fuel pressure to the regulator and out towards the heads. He also said it was getting plenty of oil pressure. Said that by everything he was seeing, it should start.

I watched him from there. New filter didn't change anything. He then reprogrammed the PCM - nothing, but he said it would now be synced to the FICM I'd installed from my other truck. Next, he got his IDS hooked back up and ran a compression check - all good. Then he started manipulating sensors with the IDS seeing if anything made a difference. Nothing. Finally, he said he didn't have the fittings handy to check fuel pressure, but he loosened each plug on the back of the head and had me crank it. Fuel came out, but he wasn't sure it was enough. I couldn't tell how much he'd loosened it, so I don't know what I saw.

At that point, he seemed stumped and said his next step would be to check the fuel lines, but that would take a lot of labor. I towed it back home and did it myself. He was right, it was a lot of labor.

 

I call BS, A dealer tech has a fuel pressure gauge. It's something simple,I know it, Go to auto zone a rent a gauge.

 

Plus there is no reason to crank it to check fuel. The pump comes on with the key and runs for about 20 seconds.
Do you hear the pump running when you first turn the key on?

 

Sorry, my typo. I just turned the key on, not crank. And yes, I hear the fuel pump running, and the upper bowl fills up quickly.

 

I'm sure he has a gauge as well. From what I understand, fuel pressure is checked on the Eseries at the rear plugs on the head. Either there's no room to get a gauge on the regulator, or it's a different regulator or its mounted 180 degrees around because the regulator plate is facing the back. If there is an orifice to plug into you can't do it with the regulator mounted. He said he didn't have the fitting to plug into the head. I agree that sounds odd as well, but he may have been frustrated and out of time for the 2 hours I agreed to pay for - he prolly already had 3+ hours into it and it was end of day quitting time.

I have a SGII. My fault - I started this project in another thread where I describe all of the data, and all the guys here said it looks good. Plus, Torreador Diesel came over and plugged his AE scanner in and agreed that the data looks good.

 

My bet is on the Blue spring being buggard up.

 

boy, I wish you were right. But alas, it's been removed, checked, all cleaned and replaced. No apparent problem and no difference made. I'd love to hear more guesses.

 

People could guess all night long but it's not going to help unless we can rule out what it is not at this point. We need the verifications.
But I'll play anyways so here's a guess. I'm guessing the intake is full of rags that you forgot to remove upon reassembly so it's getting no air.
How'd I do?

 

I don't like this game but,,, being its this vehicles destiny to not have its fuel pressure verified, put a new fuel pump in it and clean/inspect the HFCM. If that doesn't fix it, at least you'll have a (probably) good fuel pump in the parts box.

 

Great! But i didn't use rags, just a few paper towels after using a basting bulb to suck most of the oil from the reservoir. And I definitely didn't leave them in there. But, this is the first I've heard about air being a possible cause.

I noticed that the turbo doesn't spin while cranking - is that right?

Please understand that I understand that this is frustrating and y'all are limited in what you can do for me. I sincerely appreciate every suggestion as crazy as it might be. If nothing else, it just helps me to voice my frustrations here. I'm a single guy living alone and it's nice to have people to talk to. I appreciate y'all tolerating my boneheadedness.

I guess what I'd like from everyone is possible things to check for regarding each of the parts I removed and replaced. That list above - the oil cooler, EGR delete, intake, turbo, one injector/connector, etc. If the fuel pressure checks out, I don't think I have much choice except to disassemble everything back down to the oil cooler.

There is one more thing to check - the IPR valve. I've not taken it out because I have to disassemble the exhaust/turbo to get to it, and all the data says it's not a problem. But I'll do that as I start to disassemble everything again.

If I had to guess, I'd say I did something wrong in assembling the oil cooler - because the rest of those things are bonehead simple; just unbolt/rebolt. But, I don't what I could have done to the oil cooler that would allow it to build proper oil pressure and yet not start.

My second guess would be that I didn't get the injector connector pin crimped good enough, or maybe I didn't get it torqued well enough.
but I've had these engines start and run on 7 cylinders many times, and the dealer tech says all the injectors check out on IDS.

Third guess would be that I didn't get an intake manifold gasket properly in place. One did misalign when I first tried to set it in place, but I'm pretty sure I got it back. Not sure that would keep it from starting though, or that I wouldn't be able to hear a leak or see some bad data.

The passenger side injector harness was tight. I don't think it's possible to mix up the wires, but maybe one isn't fully connected. Combined with the one of the driver's side that I repaired, maybe multiple injectors are keeping it from starting - but again, the dealer tech says they're all checking good in IDS and there's a bunch of clattering when I key on.

I broke tabs off a couple of sensors, but they seem to be staying in place and I'm not getting any bad data.

Eseries have pre-formed aluminum tubes that carry the oil out of the filter housing on top of the engine down to the filter below the bell housing. I forgot to put those in before reinstalling the turbo so it was a pain snaking them through everything into their fittings afterwards. I suppose it could be possible that I got them reversed, but they match up exactly with all the brackets and hold-downs, and again, I'm getting oil pressure.

The J-pipe on the EGR was a snug fit - I had to force the turbo pedestal into place by pushing on that j-pipe. I see the rubber hose bulging away from the j-pipe a little, but on the outside of the hose clamp. Not sure that it's leaking or, if so, whether that would cause a no-start.

The turbo oil drain tube was tricky. Hard enough to get the turbo in place on this Eseries without also having to stab that tube. I think I got it, but I can't see it to be sure. But, I'm not seeing oil leaks from all this cranking.

A cover came off one of the PCM harness connectors, but I couldn't see that the wires did and I replaced it, and the dealer tech said they were fine. He also reprogrammed it, which I assume requires the harness to be OK.

Only other thing was that I left the EGR valve connected and laying in the valley next to the block off plate covering up where it went. That's all I can think of that might have gone wrong from the install. Like I said, only the oil cooler assembly was the least bit complicated.

 

It's not it's destiny, lol, just haven't got to it yet. But, that is an easy way to eliminate it as a problem. Did that on a truck once and actually returned it for a refund when it didn't fix the problem. Maybe I'll clean/inspect it - I have the new filter for it.

 

See what I just highlighted in red.
Remove the IPR and check the screen.



Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Did you mean fuel? Or is the oil filter housing not draining?