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You don't have to replace to banjo bolts. Just remove them from the heads. You will see a small star like clip you can remove with a small screw driver. After the clip is removed the spring and the bb will come right out, done. now reinstall and you are good to go.
You don't have to replace to banjo bolts. Just remove them from the heads. You will see a small star like clip you can remove with a small screw driver. After the clip is removed the spring and the bb will come right out, done. now reinstall and you are good to go.
OK, I'll check those out (assume same on both sides) when I get it apart. I was talking about buying new banjos to rig up a temp fuel line on the back side of the heads.
Sorry, I have read the entire thread, but unless you are putting in a regulated return there isn't any reason to put a hose from head to head. I would check for blockage by blowing compressed air though the lines. With banjo bolts out, remove both fuel lines, too. Blow air though each line, if air comes out the other end, the line should be good. Then remove each plug at the back of each head. Now blow air though each head. The volume of air coming out the back should be the same. If no blockage is found the hose won't help.
Sorry, I have read the entire thread, but unless you are putting in a regulated return there isn't any reason to put a hose from head to head. I would check for blockage by blowing compressed air though the lines. With banjo bolts out, remove both fuel lines, too. Blow air though each line, if air comes out the other end, the line should be good. Then remove each plug at the back of each head. Now blow air though each head. The volume of air coming out the back should be the same. If no blockage is found the hose won't help.
Yes, thanks. I understand. I'm thinking of the temp fuel line as an easy diagnosis of the plugged fuel line because doing all the work you describe is a HUGE PITA on this Eseries. Also, my ambulance is at the dealer and I don't want to pay them to do that work. So I need to get it home, but I don't want to pay a tow truck ($200+ for a truck this big). If the temp fuel line lets the engine run, the blocked line is confirmed, plus I can drive it home and tear it down myself.
However, it's looking like this temp line is a $200 solution between fittings, bolts and hose, so I'm trying to find some help to pull my truck home and prolly just tear it down hoping a plugged line is the problem.
I'd have a hard time paying $300 for the dealer to shrug their shoulders and say sorry we don't know what the issue is.
I really hope you figure it out, but if it ran before the work, and now it doesn't start back tracking.
Id definitely start with the fuel line possibly being twisted.
Yeah, that would normally be true, but the tech has been awesome. Easily spent an hour talking to me multiple times about what could be wrong with it, and spent 3-4 hours once I brought it to him - with me standing there in the shop talking through what he was doing.
The end result was a diagnosis that makes complete sense as something I could have easily done, and it confirmed what TorreadorDiesel suspected when he came over and looked at it - that it wasn't getting fuel. I just never thought about crimping the line, so always felt it wasn't fuel since pressure was fine coming out of the regulator. But always knew it had to be something simple since it ran fine before the work, and a crimped line sounds right.
Was amazed at the $150/hr rate though. O.o
It'll be a major PITA to fix, but shouldn't cost much - at most $200 (can't imagine I crimped both lines, especially since it kinda tries to start, so prolly half that).
Has anyone ever "uncrimped" a fuel line? Is it possible, assuming it's crimped so bad that it's not letting the truck start?
Maybe you can find one off a junker and yank that one oops Noooooo yanking , lol
That would be great, just hard to do since the online dismantler databases don't inventory that part. Have to just call a bunch looking for someone with a junker engine. But, if it's not already removed, it'd be a PITA - the same PITA I'm going to have to do to remove the bent one. Not worth the price of a new one.
Not sure what you mean by "patch you in." But it sounds like you're saying it will be hard to unbend. I expected as much.
I've bent these lines from bowl to head. If you thrashed the line, it's done. I meant, soft line and clamps to get the motor running. Just get rid of that possibility. I've read and thought about this thread through the holiday weekend. You know where the line is kinked. Cut it out, get some fuel to that head, and let er' rip.
Have you checked your GPCM? One side, when unplugged, and it won't run cold.
After you test that line,prove it's got no fuel going to that head. Cut it as far away from the banjo bolt and the same on the other side, use fuel injection hose and double clamp each side and re install. It will get you home.
I've bent these lines from bowl to head. If you thrashed the line, it's done. I meant, soft line and clamps to get the motor running. Just get rid of that possibility. I've read and thought about this thread through the holiday weekend. You know where the line is kinked. Cut it out, get some fuel to that head, and let er' rip.
Have you checked your GPCM? One side, when unplugged, and it won't run cold.
OK, I understand now. Prolly won't patch because the work is in getting the line off on this Eseries. Once I go to all that trouble, I'll get replace the lines.
Great tip on Diesel Redemption! He's got two lines, banjos and washers for $30!! Still, by the time it gets here, I can have this tore down, then I can use those as replacements rather than cutting the ends off and using as a temp solution.
Gonna spring for a wrecker today if i can't find anyone else.
You don't have to replace to banjo bolts. Just remove them from the heads. You will see a small star like clip you can remove with a small screw driver. After the clip is removed the spring and the bb will come right out, done. now reinstall and you are good to go.
What he said, mine are gutted and drilled out bigger to pass more fuel. Been like that since 2004 so I know it works.
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