Update: No progress. New cap, reinstalled the bowl, filled and installed the cap and filter, starts exactly as it did before.

However, it is still doing better than yesterday. Aggressively tries to start each time I crank; but, except for that first time this morning and that one time when Torreador was helping, it never runs or sputters more than a second after I let off the starter.

So dang frustrated. The dealership tech I talked to last week didn't have time to stop by then, but said he might this week. So I'm going to see him tomorrow.

 

In the upper fuel filter, the stem the filter mounts on is a shutoff valve. Why, I don't have a clue but would assume that it acts like a check valve when changing the filter to prevent air from getting into the heads fuel rails. Still does not make sense. If the filter is installed either twisted or crushed, the stem shutoff valve will not open. I removed the stem after I installed my AD2 fuel pump. I would suggest you remove the filter and the stem and try to start it. If it starts, you have a stem shutoff valve problem. If not, you have eliminated the fuel filter as the reason for no start.

Ed

 

Hmm, interesting. The dealership tech told me about that stem possibly cracking or the oring being bad. I thought about taking it out today to examine it, but didn't have the right size allen wrench. Just worked the filter up and down, seemed to work, so I put it back together.

Is this normal: when I had the bowl out, I'd put the filter in and it would move up and down. At first, it would catch, but I sprayed WD40 in it and kept working it and it got easier. But, when I took the filter out and tried to manually slide the knotched piece up and down the stem, I couldn't get it to move. Is that the way it's supposed to work, or does that indicate a cracked stem or something?

 

OK, I took the bowl back off, removed the stem and oring. didn't see any cracks and oring looked fine. Replaced without stem and filter. Crank is exactly the same; consistent sputter, but no start.

I think that almost resolves any fuel issues. Haven't technically checked the fuel pressure, but the bowl fills up fast and there were no problems with the fuel before I started all this.

I'm back to the wiring harness, injector connections, PCM connection, etc. That's what I messed with during the oil cooler install. Twisted them all around to get them out of the way. Broke a couple of tabs on sensor connectors. Broke an injector connector. I just think something in there is the problem.

But Vref is fine at 5.0. IPV is good. Both Syncs are good. FICM main power good. IPR good. ICP good. Voltage good. RPM good.

A plastic cover popped off one of the PCM connectors, but I couldn't tell that the wires disconnected, and it all seems firm now.

The passenger-side injector connectors were hard to reinstall, but I think I got them. I'd have to pull the alternator to confirm and it's a beach to get the serpentine belt and CAC tube out of the way to take it off and check. How many injectors have to be disconnected in order for it not to start? I'm not throwing codes - does it throw injector codes just from cranking?

Is there a better scanner for checking all the wiring? Torreador didn't see anything with his AE, although he seemed focused on the fuel as the problem.

Am I overlooking something I might have done when reassembling the oil cooler and housing that might be causing this? I get OP on the dash and at the ICP sensor.

 

So whats the problem now? No start?

 

Assuming that fuel flow is the same as pressure is a poor assumption. Pressure has to be checked, not assumed.

 

Yes, sir. Ran fine, but with oil in coolant. After replacing oil cooler, it won't start. all the data looks fine.

 

I understand, sir and respect that you know a lot more about this than me. I just can't find my gauge or fittings. Prolly need new fittings anyway for this Eseries. But, it's not just a blind assumption. I've checked all the components, and it was driving fine when I drove into my driveway to tear down to the oil cooler. I understand that a fuel pump can go bad, but it just doesn't make sense in this scenario whereas all the wiring I tugged on and bent and disconnected does make sense except that the data looks good. Or that I didn't assemble the oil cooler. Those are the things I messed with.

However, I did disconnect the fuel regulator and remove the lines, and those got pushed around a little too, so maybe it is fuel. Maybe the lines got crimped or came loose at the heads. I can't see down there with all the stuff on the front of this engine. I'm going to see if the dealer tech will come by and check the fuel pressure et al.

 

Just buy the OEM cap and stop burning money on garbage aftermarket parts like Dorman. You shouldn't have to cut anything off just to get the oil filter cap on. You obviously have an oil leak somewhere that is preventing the oil pressure from building. Did you cheap out and use Dorman o rings on the injectors or did you just change out the injector? Either way I would only use the OEM o rings and you could have pinched or torn an o ring getting the injector back in. If the van ran before you tore into it, 95% chance that something you did is causing it not to run.

 

Do yourself a favor and check the injector harness connectors. Make sure you have them in the right way. There is a little slot,make sure it's lined up..........just a thought. It was something you said in #34 about going in hard.

 

How much high pressure are you building while cranking? How much have you been cranking on it?

 

Hmm, you're the only one on here that seems to think that's "obvious." But you may be right, I obviously don't know. However, my ScanGauge confirms over 1000psi while cranking, and the dash gauge registers OP which usually means good pressure. Not sure of the mfg of the rings/washer set I bought at O'Reilley's, but I only removed one injector, and usually a truck will start with one bad injector. I do agree that it is most likely something I did and have said that many times. The Bonehead has no ego regarding truck repair. The question is what? Thanks for all your help!

 

Thanks, I'll check that today. But I was referring to one of the injector wires, not the entire harness connection. I recall plugging those connectors and recognizing that they only went on one way or, at least, one right way. The #8 injector wire just seemed extra tight as I tried to get it connected. But, it seems kinda obvious that none of the other wires would have reached that far, so I made it work. Now wonder if maybe it was tight because two of the others were reversed, but I seem to recall that #6 was the only other injector on that leg of the harness; #2 and #4 were on a separate leg. Gotta take off both CAC tubes, oil fill tube, and possibly upper CAC housing, fuel regulator, and alternator/serpentine belt, just to get access to the wiring on that side of this Eseries. Major PITA.

 

I'm getting over 1000 at the ICP sensor while cranking, and OP registers on the dash. I've been cranking it several times a day for a couple of weeks now.

 

We went through the ICP_DES and ICP_V difference in another thread right?

ICP_V is what the sending unit is seeing, unless the sending unit failed in a way that shows correct KOEO and cranking voltage, it's not lack of HPO pressure causing this.