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Lots of great advice, but to the Original Poster, use a 24mm (I think) socket on the upper fuel filter cap, do NOT stick the wrench 3/8 drive directly in the square hole!
You won't have to buy another cap this way.
Fuel pressure is a key gauge to add, with the sender of course. It is so easy to NOT get the lower fuel filter cap on tight enough to keep air out. With a fuel pressure gauge I can tell without cranking if I have proper fuel pressure.
Yes, I learned my $50 lesson on the fuel cap. It would be nice to have a fuel pressure gauge. Wish there was a sensor for it that SG could read.
Threads like this, are the perfect example of why my signature reads as it does. I already served my sentence working on my share of these pieces of turds on wheels when they were under warranty, showing up on my doorstep needing oil and EGR coolers, along with all the fun stuff that usually broke on a 6.0L. By the time my day was finished after being into one of these for a day, my belly was usually scarred and scratched up real good.
But back to the topic at hand, why did you not remove the right side fuel line when you pulled the intake? If I recall correctly, I used to pull the intake in through the doghouse opening, after removing the turbo and oil filter adapter. It's been awhile since I've been into one of these, so please excuse my memory. As for the passenger side valve cover, I used to remove the first six body to frame mounts, lift the front part of the body just until a 2 x 4 piece of wood would fit between the right side of the body and the frame to give just enough clearance for the valve cover to slide out. Doing it this way would save the hassle of horsing around with the engine mount.
I did remove the fuel lines from the regulator, and then removed the regulator. Just didn't remove the lines down at the head because all that is covered up by the alternators and fan/shroud, which I didn't remove. The right side fuel line also attaches to the intake and goes through the intake right behind the top alternator. had to bend and push/pull it to get the intake out the doghouse.
I haven't had to replace any injectors yet, just had to pull one on the driver's side to replace its plastic connector. Was able to get to it without jacking engine. Just had to lift/spin the oil rail on the standpipe to get to it. Major pain however getting the lower valve cover bolts. My arms were all cut up.
I did remove the fuel lines from the regulator, and then removed the regulator. Just didn't remove the lines down at the head because all that is covered up by the alternators and fan/shroud, which I didn't remove. The right side fuel line also attaches to the intake and goes through the intake right behind the top alternator. had to bend and push/pull it to get the intake out the doghouse.
Ahhhhh the devil is in the details!!! So this is the beloved ambulance prep package E-Series I take it, with dual alternators? Okay, better you than me. In all the years I have wrenched on these things, I had never had the pleasure (DISpleasure???) of having to deal with a dual alternator equipped unit. Aftermarket add-on compressor yes, but not auxiliary alternator. That said then, why not just remove the primary alternator first (the one on top of the intake), and then deal with removal of the secondary alternator and bracket afterwards, to enable access to the passenger side fuel for removal? I'm not understanding why fan clutch and fan stator removal is necessary for the job you want to do.
Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
I haven't had to replace any injectors yet, just had to pull one on the driver's side to replace its plastic connector. Was able to get to it without jacking engine. Just had to lift/spin the oil rail on the standpipe to get to it. Major pain however getting the lower valve cover bolts. My arms were all cut up.
A stubby fine toothed 12mm Gearwrench for the valve cover fasteners will make this job the least painful. Along with a bit driver and your TX-30 bit for those nine rail fasteners.
Ahhhhh the devil is in the details!!! So this is the beloved ambulance prep package E-Series I take it, with dual alternators? Okay, better you than me. In all the years I have wrenched on these things, I had never had the pleasure (DISpleasure???) of having to deal with a dual alternator equipped unit. Aftermarket add-on compressor yes, but not auxiliary alternator. That said then, why not just remove the primary alternator first (the one on top of the intake), and then deal with removal of the secondary alternator and bracket afterwards, to enable access to the passenger side fuel for removal? I'm not understanding why fan clutch and fan stator removal is necessary for the job you want to do.
A stubby fine toothed 12mm Gearwrench for the valve cover fasteners will make this job the least painful. Along with a bit driver and your TX-30 bit for those nine rail fasteners.
I'm not either, from looking at pics online of the engine front, albeit those don't have the fan on. However, he seems to be ahead of me on tearing one down in his shop, so I assume he has a better look at it. I can't see anything from above with the shroud and fan in the way.
Yep, knock on wood that you don't run across one of these. The frustration kicks in early and keeps building. Then, you got it all torn down, and it starts again as you try to put it back together.
I'm sure there are some tasks that a pro with all the possible tool combos can do more easily, but still, no way is this fun.
If the gearwrench is not to tall to fit between the bolt and valve cover, it would definitely be easier. All I have are American gearwrenches, but now that you say that, a 1/2" is pretty close to 12mm.
I already told you on your last couple of thread the easiest way to get that nut off the fan if you didn't want to buy the tool.....
wish you were closer id be there in a heart beat...
Yes sir, I'm not trying to be disrespectful, but I'm seriously broke - lots of assets, but no cash. Trying to get it done on the cheap. I have a cheapo air hammer, but no long chisel extension to get all the way to that bolt. Where would I find one of those?
OK, my current dilemma - gotta get the van back home from the dealer and my bro can't come up here until late in the week. Still hate to pay $250 to have it towed. We pulled it up there with a strap without a problem. But I had to rent a Uhaul pick up and I need someone who knows how to drive it while I ride the brakes in the van.
HOWEVER, started thinking:
If the problem is that passenger side fuel line, could I rig up a rubber hose fuel line from the bowl to the back of the head? Both of those are easy to access. And running a hose back there would be easy. Would just have to figure out where to get fittings.
Would it matter that fuel came in from the back? Is there anything about the banjo bolt that makes it necessary vs just finding an open fitting? Or would I just buy another banjo bolt and figure out a way to tie into it?
I might be able to do that in the dealer parking lot and drive it home rather than mess with renting a truck and waiting for my brother. Also, it would confirm that the fuel line is the problem without tearing into everything again.
Thanks, Sean. I understand the hose could come lose and is certainly not a long term fix, just thinking it might work to confirm the problem and maybe run the engine at low speed/rpm long enough to drive the 4 miles to my house.
If your going to do that get the fuel injection hose, which is rated for the 100psi plus. I've used it in a fuel regulated return setup on a 7.3 and IR was fine. I've also used in on the 6.0 for 10 years, tank to pump, not pressurized. A good hydraulics store will have the fittings you need.
If your going to do that get the fuel injection hose, which is rated for the 100psi plus. I've used it in a fuel regulated return setup on a 7.3 and IR was fine. I've also used in on the 6.0 for 10 years, tank to pump, not pressurized. A good hydraulics store will have the fittings you need.
OK. Do you know whether it will work to feed fuel in the back of the head rather than the front?
That should not matter. The only thing to watch for would leaking fuel
in the lines on the front happen to have any cracks.
Other wise you can feed from what ever end works so long as you watch the
hot pipes. Don't want to over heat the lines in back.
That should not matter. The only thing to watch for would leaking fuel
in the lines on the front happen to have any cracks.
Other wise you can feed from what ever end works so long as you watch the
hot pipes. Don't want to over heat the lines in back.
Is there any way to find out the specs of the fittings? If not, I guess I can go to the dealership and remove the regulator and head plug. I see a hydraulic hose dealer close to my house that might be open tomorrow.
Will the length of the temp hose matter, such that if I just get it overly long to make sure it can reach, it'll be OK?
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