Yes, we have good IPV, good ICP, good FPW, and OP at the dash gauge. I also hear a distinct difference in the crank at the exact moment that the dash gauge registers. That said, I don't know if it matters, but every day the first time I crank, it takes a long time for the dash to register OP. After that first time, it registers quickly as long as I crank soon thereafter. If it took that long to start every day, something would be wrong, but not sure in this case. Question: if one of the wiring harness connectors was in backwards or not making connection, wouldn't I see that in Vref or IPV or something?

 

Quick and dirty way to check if the injectors are all connected.
Un plug the glow plug module and put the charger on because
if you do this a few times it will draw the batteries down.

With the hood up/head in dog house turn the key on and listen (you might want help to turn the key)
for injector buzz. You should hear 8 sets making noise. With the
cab on the E-series you might try a bit of PVC pipe or cardboard tube
to help listen to each injector location. (It's a poor mans stethoscope.)
It' also good for finding squeaks.

On the fuel pressure. Jack is correct about getting a real pressure.
Air should vent back to the tank by way of the fuel return line. Did
you happen to hear any hissing when first turning on the key after
having the bowl empty?
Also is the bowl full when you take the top off after you turn the key on
and cycle it 3 times? If it won't fill then you could have a blockage or a bad
pump.


Here is something I brewed up with some info from an oil post on FTE.
It will give you static and simulated WTO fuel pressures. It also will show you
in you have fuel aeration if you use a clear return line to the tank or a can for
the vented fuel. (no waste you can reuse the fuel if the can is clean).
For the WTO simulation you have the engine running and then watch the gauge
and open the valve. That pressure you see with it open is what you would see
at WTO without having to go run down the road and do a WTO pass.
The static pressure you see is what everyone looks when putting a gauge on the
fuel system for most testing. Fuel aeration will tell you if you have air being picked
up on the suction side of the pump. Air in the fuel makes for unhappy injectors.


That orifice is 0.047" and I got it from Parker >>> Orifice Fittings | Parker NA

Here is where I got the idea for the tool >>> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16733716

The one thing that can cause a small headache is that the flare are 37º not the 45º you find at the home stores.
Don't use 45º or it will leak. You can pick up the correct parts at the same place you order the orifice from.


Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Hook up a scan to tool and run a buzz test. See if all 8 are buzzing

 

Does the engine fire up for a few seconds with Brake Parts Cleaner sprayed into the air intake and cranking the engine?

 

Mike wouldn't cause runaway?

 

Moderation.

 

Red or Green can? Also how much?



Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Start it with the intake horn open and have a t-shirt handy. Won't hurt to not have the turbo hooked up if it's not starting. I've driven one with the hot side CAC open before, it's not fun but there were zero other options at the time. Blew the boot and had to get it off the road.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. I took it to the tech I know at the dealer. He charged me two hours to diagnose. Result: He's not sure. Like everyone else, he said it should be starting.

Injectors all check out, data all good, oil pressure good. He got it to start up with ether which indicates a fuel problem. Checked the fuel pressure up to the regulator and out the fuel lines. Loosened the plugs on the back side of the heads and didn't seem to have much fuel flowing out, although he didn't hook up the pressure gauge (wasn't sure he had the right fitting on hand, and I'd already gotten my two hours worth).

His recommended next step (couldn't do it on my budget) makes a lot sense as something I could have done. He wants to check the fuel lines from the regulator to the heads. Thinks they might be plugged up or - most likely - I crimped one during the oil cooler install. I did have to bend them back, especially the passenger side, to get the intake off - because I didn't have the tool to get the fan clutch off, I left all the front of the engine/fan shroud/radiator on when I replaced the oil cooler. He used his camera tool to snake down the front of the engine, but really couldn't see much ($##%^@%$ Eseries).

So, instead, now I'm going to take the front of the truck off (grill, grill support, upper core support, condenser, oil cooler, radiator, shroud, etc.), rather than come from above since I can't get the fan clutch off. I should be able to then pull off whatever is in the way to see the fuel lines. Honestly, this makes a lot of sense. I think the passenger line is crimped and it tries to start off the driver's side cylinders but just can't do it. Alternatively, some crud may have gotten in the fuel line in the two weeks it was open and plugged it up.

Gotta do some turkey first, and find someone to help me tow it back home from the dealer or wait for my brother to be able to come back again. Shouldn't cost any money, just a lot of work. But, all in all, coming at it from the front should be easier than squeezing under the hood.

 

You better plan a way to get the fan off, maybe the dealer can knock it loose for you. Im doing an injector on an 06 E450 now. Was just looking at the right side fuel line, man how did you get the intake off ? Pick ups route different, across the front of the intake. Vans run the line up over the intake by #1 injector then to filter. Your going to have to pull both alternators and both tensioners off to even get to the banjo bolt on the right head. You won't be able to do that till you get the fan and the stator off

 

Aaaarrrgh. Are you sure? I asked the dealer tech what he'd charge to just loosed that fan nut - he said 5 hours of labor.

However, based on the way it kinda tries to start, and even has started, albeit very rough, for a few seconds, the tech agreed that I'm prolly getting fuel to one side but not the other. It'd even physically be more likely that I only bent one line and not both.

My gut feeling is that I bent the passenger side line. It passes through the intake and lays flat across the top of the intake going to the regulator. It is the one I pushed around the most getting the intake off - had to lift it up pretty high and bend backwards to get the intake off. Does it look like I can get to it without removing the fan? The tech thought I could.

Would I have a better chance at getting the fan off with the front of the truck off. I just don't have a decent air hammer or a long enough hammer tool to reach the fan nut from above with shroud in place. Maybe with every thing off, I can use some other tool combination to get it off?

 

I did this once when I was stuck at work. No air that I could use so I
did something else. I got a open end wrench that fit onto the fan nut
and then took a small sledge 5~8 Lbs I think. Had a helper and I had
him hold the wrench tight the direction I want it to turn and I took the
sledge and whacked the wrench near the end in the direction I needed
the nut to turn. After working on it we were able to get it off. It just took
a lot longer than if I had an air hammer to use. What you end up doing
is a poor mans impact wrench. It will wor. The more room to swing the
hammer the quicker it will be but it can be done with short shots if
you don't have the room. Just make sure that the open end fits tight on
the nut so you don't loose the energy that you put into it with the hammer
as slop taking up the little give.

Can you post some photos from the front and rear next time you have things
open so all of us that have never seen the under side of the E-series hood an
idea on what your dealing with.



Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Advance or Auto Zone has rental tools for taking off the fan clutch, not sure if they'll fit the E series, I'm not familiar with them. I borrowed a kit for my son's Dodge, they charged $68 but gave it back when I returned it.
I would loan you the one I have for my F250, not sure if it would work, but postage to/from would probably be as much as what I paid for it. (I think about $50 on Amazon)

I sure hope you can get it figured out. I just changed the oil cooler on my F250 for the second time (my fault) and have had a time getting it back running right. It's ok now (knocking on wood) thanks to the folks on this forum.

 

Thanks for the offer! And I include this forum on my list of the best things about the Internet - right in there with GPS maps and Pirate Bay movies.

 

That's helpful to know that it is possible to get that nut off. Surely no room to swing at it without taking a bunch of stuff off, but I gotta do that either way. I'll take some pics. Here's one I found online that gives you an idea of the initial pain. The entire opening between the core support and the top of the engine compartment is about 14-18" (don't have my truck home to measure right now). The radiator takes up a few inches of that. To do anything almost, you have to remove the power steering bracket, and then the air intake so you can push the reservoir to one side.

The upper radiator hose is in the way a lot, as are the CAC tubes and oil fill tube. They're held together by a bracket that bolts to each, an alternator bolt, and a bolt on the front CAC tube housing. Getting to the CAC clamp at the turbo is major pain. The horizontal wiring harness attached to the upper engine compartment is in the way, but you can't really get it out of the way like on a truck. You can get the center of it up a little, and that helps.

Maybe there's a tool that can get to the belt tensioners through the tiny space in the fan shroud, but I don't have it. I got them off using a ratchet strap hooked to them (stuck an extension in the back one and hooked onto it) and run down, around the stabilizer bar to the frame at the right angle.

There's a housing where the oil filter goes that has two 3/4" tubes running up, over, around the turbo and down the back of the engine to the filter mounted under the engine, close to the HFCM and the transmission filter.

Advantages: the degas bottle is out of the way. And the FICM is behind the degas bottle, which is easy to move out of the way. Of course, the back of the engine is easier to get to from the doghouse, although the exhaust/turbo pipes are in the way. I expect taking the tranny out is easier. With those pipes off, the IPR is easily reached, but with them on, it's prolly as hard or harder to get to it. You can see it, just can't get a socket or wrench on it with the pipes and shield in the way.

Taking valve covers off is a pain. I was able to get the driver's side off, but couldn't get the oil rail off because the standpipe was too long. Prolly could have worked at it and gotten the standpipe to separate, then taken it off, but I was able to spin it around to get the one injector I needed. From what I understand, you can't get the other side off without removing the motor mount and lowering the engine.

And working through the doghouse is tough unless you take a seat(s) out. Still, you're working sideways, or without much arm reach - it's hard to get your shoulder strength into anything.