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Had the unit in the body shop for some body repairs. Tire blow out from previous owner and tail damage from me learning just how wide the tail swings. Also, receptable for trailer light plug that energizes lights w/fuse. Copied someone on here...Thanx
Not a mod to the toy hauler itself, but to the ATV that goes into the toy hauler.
Due to weight distribution issues I need to back my Ranger 900 into my toy hauler. Backing it in leaves the inside smelling like exhaust and it always sets off the CO detector. Opening the side door, opening windows and running the fans only does so much. So today I put on my Redneck Engineering hat and came up with this. It's a 2" to 2" rubber elbow attached to the exhaust tip, a 1.5" (inner diameter) PVC coupler, 2" to 4" rubber adapter, then 20' of flexible dryer vent. I should have taken a video. That dryer vent shakes like crazy! But it works. About $25 total.
Not a mod to the toy hauler itself, but to the ATV that goes into the toy hauler.
Due to weight distribution issues I need to back my Ranger 900 into my toy hauler. Backing it in leaves the inside smelling like exhaust and it always sets off the CO detector. Opening the side door, opening windows and running the fans only does so much. So today I put on my Redneck Engineering hat and came up with this. It's a 2" to 2" rubber elbow attached to the exhaust tip, a 1.5" (inner diameter) PVC coupler, 2" to 4" rubber adapter, then 20' of flexible dryer vent. I should have taken a video. That dryer vent shakes like crazy! But it works. About $25 total.
There are some things that really irritate me about my toyhauler, but this is one that I'm glad I ended up getting a sliding glass door for. I pull in with the glass door shut, open all the air vents, then get on down the road and let it pull fresh air in. My CO detector *always* goes off, and I've associated this with just exhaust from the truck while traveling down the road. But I never have any smell in the rest of the trailer.
If it wasn't flexible duct it could be a ram air intake. But that implies that I go fast enough to ram air in and that isn't likely. I'll have to post up to the Ranger forum about my new "cold air intake".
I have to back in my RZR S1K because of cage height. The LP detector goes off in the trailer. I flail the side door open and shut to clear the air. It's great.
Because I'm the idiot that I am, I bought bigger tires for the RZR, so now I have to air down to almost nothing to transport.
Next week my bandsaw and welder are gonna fix the cage. After all that, I'll still have to back it in.
My SxS is a bit taller than the opening in my trailer. I just jack it up and spin the coil over spring adjusters to slacken the springs and lower the SxS. 5-7 minutes - done like dinner!
When I was shopping for my toy hauler I found that there were a few where the door wasn't tall enough. But there were even more where the Happi-Jack bed hung down too low from the ceiling to allow my Ranger inside.
Layed on the floor to light the oven for the last time. It was a two part mod as my wife had previously ignored the direction of rotation on the Suburban range/oven ignitor ****. This snapped the shaft of the igniter. I used a 4 wire ignitor from Amazon in the OEM igniter location. A uni-bit made quick work of the mounting hole to allow it to fit the slightly larger OD of the igniter mounting shaft.
After getting a gas grill for the house I much prefer the newer AA battery powered igniter because it's pretty quiet, no THUNK THUNK like the push button kind to wake the beasts early.
(posted in fifthwheel thread meant to be in toyhauler so now it is in both)
Have been trying to decide what to do with my hitch.
Decided to give it a go loosely following the Reese Goosebox design minus all the moving parts.
Ended up making a bushing to press over the fifth wheel pin.
Pressed on and welded.
The gooseneck tube was pressed on the bushing, welded around to the bushing and existing pinbox and then added some gussets.
Now need to clean up, paint and add chains. I will be Drilling another hole and adding 1 more bolt per side.
The old adapter that came with the camper was 12" from the fifth wheel plate to the top of the gooseneck ball. The new piece I made is 5-1/2" from the fifth wheel plate to the top of the gooseneck ball. Yes I still have a lever arm but it is less than half the length it was. Also it will be bolted to the camper in the middle set of holes so if you were to compare to the stock pinbox the ball is only 3-1/2" lower than the lowest stock pin location.
I poked around under the skin of the camper and all the framework looks good.
For future plans I am thinking about adding onto the entire front framework under the bedroom of the fifthwheel making the frame stronger and adding additional storage accessed from the outside. Not sure how tall I will be able to do, will need to verify clearances to the flatbed. As long as the compartment doors will be 6" tall it will be useable.
