Got the front cover and oil pan off. Looks like I'm right back where I started! LOL!!



This where the oil was coming from. Right above the oil passage hole at the tip of my finger. I need a part # or size for the o-ring on the check valve plug just to the right of there in the top of the block. If anybody knows, I'd appreciate it.



Here is where it would have been leaking on the inside of the front cover. I can't see anything wrong with the o-ring there, but that's where it was coming out. I am putting a new o-ring on that plug just in case I am wrong though.



I am going to need a whole new dip stick adapter for the oil pan. It has been over tightened and distorted the inside piece. Does anyone know the part# for that also. I need the flange, nut, and new o-ring.

And JP, there is no way I have ever seen to pull a PSD with a manual trans still in place. The bell housing hits the tunnel before you ever come close to getting the engine high enough for the oil pan to clear the cross member enough to bring the engine forward. It is much easier to drop the trans, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc before you pull the engine....and it is still tight as can be getting it out of the engine bay when you do it without pulling the core support like I did.

 

Wow you made quick work of all that Bill.

 

I wish it would all go back together that quick Gabe LOL!

 

I used a cherry picker rated at 1000 lbs to pull my 7.3L... Needless to say I kept all body parts clear of it while it was in the air lol. The arm was looking aweful questionable the entire time but its in one piece still!

And yea, pulling a tranny and engine wouldn't be easy. My cherry picker was maxed out just trying to get it over the bumper lol

 

You did all that today?? Good job Bill and thanks for the pictures!!

 

Did it this evening after work.

 

I believe this is the part number for that o-ring. I'm including the part numbers for the other parts that you could change while you have the plug out just in case you want to change everything in there for preventative measures.

O-ring F4TZ-6674-A
Int’l 1815980C1
Ball F4TZ-6674-B
Int’l 13722D
Seat F4TZ-6674-C
Int’l 1815952C1

 

Must not have had any issues coming out anyway. You'll be up and running in no time bud!

 

If you can't find a new dipstick flange, I think I have one that I could send you. It's used, but I think I have one.

 

makes sense - i think this is what you were thinking too, but i was thinking of separating the trans from the engine, supporting the front of the trans from below and pulling just the engine out. if i hear you correctly, it sounds like the length of the input shaft protrusion into clutch disc/pilot bushing is longer than the distance from the oil pan depression to the frame crossmember. that makes sense. probably like 3-4" vs. 1/2"!

as for the oil dipstick tube adapter, i probably shouldn't even say this now in case it doesn't happen, but I'm thinking i may spend a few lunchtimes at work trying to make a weld-in version. as i see it, its just a plate with a tube through it at an angle. it doesn't seem all that hard to do with tig welder and a lathe - and some careful die grinding for the oblong hole in the plate.

you'll have your engine back together and in the truck before i even think about taking my oil pan off, but i'll be sure to take lots of pics and do a write-up if I give it a go.

 

Geez Bill, I don't talk to you in a day and you go pulling your engine out! Let me know when you are putting it back in and I'll come help. You don't need to be lifting that tranny/t-case yourself....old man....

 

Goes to show you he's tough!!

 

Bill, I have this numbers in my PC:

Oil Dipstick Gasket Repair Kit
(International) 1846146C91
F4TZ6753A Inner o ring $3.23
F4TZ6751A Flangenut $20.00
3C3Z6753AA Dip tube gasket. $5.38

 

Thanks guys! I called up the local IH dealer and got the dip stick parts, the o-ring for the check valve plug, and a front seal ordered. He said he would have it tomorrow, but I won't make it over there to pick it up until Thursday probably.

 

Please post the actual part #, OK?