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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 02:15 PM
  #106  
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Great looking truck so far. Reminds me of how much work has left to be done on my 53...


Question: What brakes are you running on the rear end? Also, where did you buy the axles from and what bolt pattern are you running? I ask because my 53 came with a 9" out of an early 70s F100 and I'd like to convert it to 5x4.5" bolt pattern with disc brakes.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 09:09 PM
  #107  
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I also have 5x4.5, I ordered custom new moser axles. New trac lok ford posi. My brakes are standard GM metric calipers. Brackets were welded on. I had a guy here in phoenix build my rear end for me. He's been building 9 inches for 30 years. If you flip through my build thread, you'll see pics of when I picked up the rear end
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 09:31 AM
  #108  
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Have been working on alot of wiring lately. Finally got her started for the first time,I am so excited to hear that. I had the distributor clocked 180 degrees on the first try. was getting alot of backfire out the carb. Took a pic of the rocker arms when I was rotating to top dead center.
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Got the original 6v headlight switch to work.
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Keys look so good hanging there!
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started connecting my jumper wires
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finished product
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Old May 25, 2015 | 09:37 AM
  #109  
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Found a few leaks along the way
Timing cover i believe. I have this problem with the reverse rotation water pump. The original water pump has 9 mounting bolts, the reverse water pump has only 7. I'm thinking coolant is leaking from the other two bolt holes. But, the march serpentine pulley kit calls for a reverse rotation water pump. it's weird. I started doing some research and that opened an entire can of worms. But, if i change the timing cover to match the water pump, then i have to get rid of mechanical fuel pump. Here's a pic of the 302 pump, and the 351w pump. You'll notice the bolt hole difference, and the water jacket opening. you'll see which one is for reverse flow and standard flow.
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Old May 25, 2015 | 09:42 AM
  #110  
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Here's a close up of the bolt hole that doesn't have a bolt. You can seee under the debris there's threads
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gotta do a pressure test and find the leaks
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Battery box i fabbed up a piano hinge to insert the optima battery in from the side. There wasn't enough clearance to put it in normally. And I moved the battery because i didn't want to get under the carpet everytime i needed to remove battery cables or service the thing.
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Still haven't decided if i want to weld on the new inner fender mounting tabs. I would like to do a front hood tilt kit, but i either need stock hinge bolt holes, (which previous owner welded up), or I need inner fender mounting tabs which i also don't have because previous owner replaced cowls and not the tabs. don't know what he was thinking how he was going to secure the hood. kinda a big deal.
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Old May 25, 2015 | 09:54 AM
  #111  
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Here's some pics of my 2nd attempt to widen rear fenders. alot harder than it looks.

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I think that's about it for now.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 10:41 AM
  #112  
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Search Results - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts


You are making great progress. I am going to steel your battery tray idea, going to go out this morning and take a look at it, thanx for the vision.
If you use the front flip kit as the one mid-fifty sells you don't need the hinge bolt holes. I had filled the hinge holes and cut the same pcs off figuring I was going to tilt the front clip but changed my mind as the project progressed. Nice work again
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 12:49 PM
  #113  
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I could be wrong, but I thought there's a bracket that bolts to stock hinge holes on cab.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 01:12 PM
  #114  
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Awesome progress, thanks for sharing the update! Just a little tweaking here and there now...
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 01:42 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by jrockdiddy
I could be wrong, but I thought there's a bracket that bolts to stock hinge holes on cab.


Search Results - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts


If you notice in the MMB kit it supplies SS blank off plates to cover these holes.
If you are talking the bracket that is in the Y2K kit that mid-fifty sells than yes you would need the holes. There has been lengthy discussion on which one to use. I used the MMB hood flip kit because I have a friend who has the y2k and IMHO there is a design problem in that one.
If you are saying there is a bracket with the stock hood hinges when they attach, than I would have to say I am not aware of the bracket, neither my 56 or the 55 panel had it, there are a lot more knowledgeable people here tho who might chime in.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 03:24 PM
  #116  
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In the MMB kit you need the inner fender mounting tab to mount the roller bracket for the hood tilt. I do not have either hood hinge holes or inner fender mounting tabs.


Originally Posted by gerrymoe
Search Results - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts


If you notice in the MMB kit it supplies SS blank off plates to cover these holes.
If you are talking the bracket that is in the Y2K kit that mid-fifty sells than yes you would need the holes. There has been lengthy discussion on which one to use. I used the MMB hood flip kit because I have a friend who has the y2k and IMHO there is a design problem in that one.
If you are saying there is a bracket with the stock hood hinges when they attach, than I would have to say I am not aware of the bracket, neither my 56 or the 55 panel had it, there are a lot more knowledgeable people here tho who might chime in.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 05:44 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by jrockdiddy
In the MMB kit you need the inner fender mounting tab to mount the roller bracket for the hood tilt. I do not have either hood hinge holes or inner fender mounting tabs.

Yes you will have to weld the pc in the last picture in post # 110 back on, I had to also. I also cut the vertical part off it that is just above your forefinger made for a cleaner look and it is not needed anyways. If you need another, I have a set and would gladly send them to ya no charge just send me an address
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 06:03 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by gerrymoe
Yes you will have to weld the pc in the last picture in post # 110 back on, I had to also. I also cut the vertical part off it that is just above your forefinger made for a cleaner look and it is not needed anyways. If you need another, I have a set and would gladly send them to ya no charge just send me an address


Yes, I agree. That vertical piece doesn't even touch the cowl when I position it anyways. I'm just scared if I weld it in the wrong place, hood won't fit right
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 06:31 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by jrockdiddy
Yes, I agree. That vertical piece doesn't even touch the cowl when I position it anyways. I'm just scared if I weld it in the wrong place, hood won't fit right

I hear you. I fit my fenders on and put a hood on to verify the fenders than fit the bracket.
On the receiving pc of the MMB it has threads so there is a lot of room for adjustment a lot more than the Y2K IMOP.
The bracket actually was quite painless. If I was to do it again tho I wpuld fit scribe around it and drill plug weld holes thru the body and plug weld inside the cab a heck of a lot easier than the polishing of the welds outside in the engine compartment.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 06:35 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by gerrymoe
I hear you. I fit my fenders on and put a hood on to verify the fenders than fit the bracket.
On the receiving pc of the MMB it has threads so there is a lot of room for adjustment a lot more than the Y2K IMOP.
The bracket actually was quite painless. If I was to do it again tho I wpuld fit scribe around it and drill plug weld holes thru the body and plug weld inside the cab a heck of a lot easier than the polishing of the welds outside in the engine compartment.


I'll give that a shot. That sounds more painless than the way I was going to attempt it.
 
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