Build thread-55
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Working on the doors and driver door gaps. might take to metal shop to have the driver door fixed. 
scribed and then cut out with a body saw
little bit of weld thru primer
Hinges got some new pins as well. pressed out old, drilled to 11/32", then pressed in new.
scribed and then cut out with a body saw
little bit of weld thru primer
Hinges got some new pins as well. pressed out old, drilled to 11/32", then pressed in new.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Decided to try and tackle the driver door gap myself. Took me all day, but i'm pretty happy with the results. Not building a show truck, but i would like nice gaps. especially if i can do it myself and save a bunch of cash.
First, i got the door to fit as good as i could get it. i had to shim the bottom hinge, (cowl bolts, to get the bottom of the door to move towards the bed. Here is where i started after shimming..Bottom was a little to close for my paint stick to fit
made a relief cut in the cowl and opened the gap just a hair...
Now i need to get some side mirrors to make sure they fit ok. I'll tackle the other door this week, but it's not as bad as the drivers was. I drilled a couple holes in the hinges to mark where they are. that way i can put them back after paint and I'll know where exactly they go...
turned out pretty darn good if you ask me... my door has a few dings in it you can see in the pic. looks like somebody took a tack hammer to it. it was covered in the bondo.
I did the same on the rear, but only took a final pic.
First, i got the door to fit as good as i could get it. i had to shim the bottom hinge, (cowl bolts, to get the bottom of the door to move towards the bed. Here is where i started after shimming..Bottom was a little to close for my paint stick to fit
made a relief cut in the cowl and opened the gap just a hair...
Now i need to get some side mirrors to make sure they fit ok. I'll tackle the other door this week, but it's not as bad as the drivers was. I drilled a couple holes in the hinges to mark where they are. that way i can put them back after paint and I'll know where exactly they go...
turned out pretty darn good if you ask me... my door has a few dings in it you can see in the pic. looks like somebody took a tack hammer to it. it was covered in the bondo.
I did the same on the rear, but only took a final pic.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, AZ
They sure are. They are awesome. I definitely recommend them.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, AZ
What pins?
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Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Swan River Valley M.B Can
The pins that hold the two parts of the hinges together . This is how most modern doors are removed ( mostly welded onto the door and pillar ) . If you get everything the way you want then by removing the pins only you don't change your alignment . Not necessary just lessens the chances of scratching new paint trying to align things again
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, AZ
I'm gonna have to agree with 56panelford, i don't see how removing/installing the pin with new paint will be any easier....
