just coming across this thread. Keep up the great work bud!

 

Weather is starting to cool off here in Phoenix. Starting to put the new body panels on. Driver fender and gravel pan done. Now need to put the bed together. Also, would like to get the weatherstripping on the doors so I can get those lined up and marked, so I can check gaps and hopefully get everything painted before Christmas....

 

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i agree with John. Good luck.

 

That stance is mean! Great work on the truck, looking forward to seeing some paint on it!

 

...is there an Advantage of the no Limit system they put the coilovers outside the Frame?

 

It will ride better and be a little more stable, but it will cause headaches if you want big tires.

 

...thats what i thought also

 

It does give it a little more stability, and yes the bottom shock mounting bolt is close to my wheels. I have 20x10's in the rear and I believe an inch or two of clearance between the wheel and the bolt. (I'd have to look closer tonight to get specifics)
The pan hard bar is a little longer in this kit, which I believe gives less side to side movement of the rear axle.....I'm definitely not a pro on this

 

Scored some free tubular control arms from a buddy of mine. Now just need to order new bushings and ball joints, and buy the lower arm bolt spacer to weld onto the crossmember.



After I blasted them in the cabinet

 

...when i watch your pics it seems you could move your lower shock Mountingbrackets a bit more to the inner direction, that would give your more distance to the Wheels. Maybe you would need shorter Coilovers to get it the same low. But thats an option.
I like the "outside the Frame" mounted Coilovers and i like the upper mount especially, because the shock is between two brackets. I don´t like the mounting bolts just standing out the Crossmember / Domtube, because the bolt can bend.

 

If I moved the lower shock mount closer to the frame, it would have raised the upper shock mount higher in the air. I would have had to make a huge c notch to get it to fit. And causing me to modify bed wood floor.

 

Well, the holidays are over, santa has come and gone. the tubular control arms have been a headache trying to replace bushings and install. First, i ruined the upper upper control arms trying to get the bushings out. instead of cutting the metal sleeve with my body saw, i tried pressing them out. spread those puppies like a wishbone. disfigured the ball joint area so bad they wouldn't screw in anymore. found some new ones on eBay, $100. (not happy)
Second, trying to find the correct bushings that fit these lower control arms. everyone wants to use different size bushings. ridiculous. finally found some, pressed them in, now I'm ready to go .

had to make my own 5/8" spacers for the lower control arm bolt.


started assembling the new bed and tailgate

gonna cut off the tailgate chain tabs



gotta drill holes in the new header panel to bolt down to the crossmember.


Finally some fancy jewelry!!!!!!!!!!! Went with 600 lb springs


had to modify the lower control arm spring mount


i might add some type of gusset to reinforce the control arm.

Got a new power steering rack because mine leaked like a SOB. had it rebuilt 3 x's. never buying from CPP again. With these tubular lower control arms, the bolt is rubbing against the dust boot. not sure what other guys are doing for this issue. i have a heidts crossmember, and i believe the control arms are TCI. Are people modifying the rack and pinion mounting point to move the rack a little bit??




just got in new tailgate hinges and latches. didn't take any pics but i can tomorrow. not gonna do chains. simple latches on the inside of the bed.

 

I had the same problem and ended up by using spacers between the rack mounting points and the cross member, I don't know if this was ok or not but its not effecting the steering and not rubbing the bolts any more

 

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