Much better.
Got the plugs at oreillys auto for $8. I just used the push in plugs, no tapping. Hopefully the oil pressure doesn't push them out. They were tough going in. ...

 

You need to stake the push in plugs. Make them just below the surface of the block then take a blunt chisel or you can use small punch then make identations in three spots around the plug in the block. What your trying to do is push metal into the plug hole to make it smaller so the plug can not be pushed out. I hope this make sense, I could show in 30 seconds but trying to explain ain't so easy.

 

I never tried just using a wrench or ratchet. How much oil pressure can you build that method? I always used a electric drill and it gets it right up to normal oil pressure. That's why Iike the 13 dollar adapters, fit a 3/8" drill chuck nice. Different strokes different folks...

I agree about the staking. Lifted web pic, and this guy got a little carried away with it. But gives you the general idea.

 

Ok, I think I can handle that. I don't think I can cause too much damage

 

IMHO welch or freeze plugs are not meant to be staked, especially the ones without flange around the edge, but are "upset" when installed. The plug should have a shallow dome shape and is installed with convex side of the dome out. To upset install it I put the square end of a 3/8" drive extension (I use a 1/2" extension for plugs >2" diameter) flat against the center of the dome and give the other end of the extension a sharp rap with a 12 -16 oz ball peen hammer. The blow should be hard enough to leave a noticeable dent in the center of the dome, but not so deep that it bends the plug across it or totally reverses the dome. This flattens the dome enough to expand the diameter of the plug, locking it into the seat. We usually wiped the edge of the plug with the hardening type permatex (permatex 1?) on any exterior or waterjacket plugs to guarantee no weepage. I use the same permatex on threaded plugs rather than staking them, unless you are sure you'll never want to take them back out. I never had a plug installed this way pop out or leak. Today I might use locktite red on the threaded plugs rather than the permatex.

Actually you can do a LOT of damage staking the plugs, from damaging the threads enough to make it impossible to remove or install a new plug to starting a crack in the block. They are called stress risers.

 

SBF Engine oil plugs are staked from the factory and therefor should be staked again unless converting to screw in plugs. Water jacket freeze plugs and welsh plugs do not see in excess of 20 PSI, ever, unlike the oil system that can see in excess of 100 PSI. That is why they need to be staked. I have seen more than one engine that blew out un-staked oil galley plugs. I had a staked oil galley plug blow out of one of my own engines on start up years ago so that is why I convert all mine to screw in or stake the crap out of them.

As far as oil pressure turning by hand. The engine in my truck showed almost sixty (60) PSI with a speed wrench turned by hand.

 

Don't remember ever using unthreaded oil passage plugs??? Ford uses such things? Yes, welch plugs were usually in water jacket.
OK I see plus you are referring to, but I also see that the cam retainer plate is specifically designed to hold in those plugs so they can't blow out unless cam is removed. Leave it to Ford to save 0.30 by using push in plugs.
Hey Jrock suggestion, next time don't post the same question in 2 different posts.

 

You talking About also posting it in my build thread? I didn't know you were an administrator

 

That is a late model cam retainer, the earlier models did not have the tabs for retaining the plugs and all three passages were push at the front of the block and screw in at the rear of the block, only in later years did they make the one galley hole threaded. Matter of fact the early blocks also had a plug in the small hole on the lower left because the plate did not cover it. Here is a picture of the early model cam retainer. http://s114.photobucket.com/user/68R...03029.jpg.html

Ax, here is a picture of chevy (I know you a SBC in your panel)with pressed in plugs that are staked, so it is not just Ford saving .30. http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/attac...9-cam-plate-zz

A racing trick is to drill a small hole in the upper right plug so that it sprays oil on the timing chain when using a double roller to keep it lubricated for longevity. Here is a picture of the plug with a .040 hole in it for oiling the TC. http://www.mondellotwister.com/PP-40.gif

 

Finally got the motor back in the truck, everything hooked back up. threw some cheap shocks on there just to get her running and driving so I can work out any other bugs. Need to put tranny fluid in, coolant, need to borrow my buddy's timing light, and then I'm off to get an alignment!!!

 

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Looking good.

 

A couple updates, windshield is in, great price, and he installed it. Thx to my buddy Jason at "fat fender garage" for the referral. Alignment guy will be here in an hour to do the alignment in my garage. Nothing beats house calls!!!

 

Today was the day!! After windshield and alignment done yesterday, got the motor dialed in and off I go!! My first drive down to the gas station. Lets keep the criticism to a minimum on the red gas tank Enjoy the videos. Have an oil leak from the crankshaft area oil pan gasket. So mad. I just had the motor out and replaced that stupid thing. Instructions say not to use gasket sealer. maybe tighten down the oil pan bolts?

 

I was flabbergasted to see that any kind of machine shop would have left those plugs out, maybe the machine work was done and the customer requested them not put freeze plugs in and the machine shop left all plugs out? Nice build on a nice truck