You don't need a calibration kit. You are just going to bolt a 1405 on and go - fast, I'm sure. Maybe I'm the one that needs the calibration kit?

And, by the way, there's always the 1460 Holley. I'd put money on it being faster than the 1405, and I doubt you can run it out of fuel on the top end. But, it'll cost you more than the price of the 1405 in extra gas in short order. I calc'd a bit over $16 less fuel used by the 1406 in the 250 mile run to/fro KS. And, while the 1405 out of the box won't get the mileage the 1406 will, there's no reason we can't lean the cruise mix down to something akin to that of the 1406.

So, maybe you do need the kit?

 

Gary this is an interesting discussion about your oil leak and I feel like I am learning a lot just by reading along.

I had an oil leak once at my oil sending unit (on my inline six) that took me a long time to figure out. Like you, a rag around the sensor came back dry, so I really didn't think that was the problem. But when the oil was coming out, during engine runs, it was hot and thin and quickly dripped off to another spot. By the time I would check it, the other spot was covered in oil but the offending sending unit was sitting there like an innocent maiden.

My problem was ultimately due to too much oil; as an after thought to an oil change I threw in a bottle of ZDDP but that was enough to get me over the full mark and I guess the pressure just built up. Anyway, over a period of time of careful monitoring I did finally realize my sending unit was the real culprit in my leak.

Not saying that's your problem necessarily... you have probably been more thorough in your examination than I. But if it was, a sending unit is a lot easier to work on than the intake manifold...


Luke

 

Luke - I kinda hope it is the sending unit or one of my connections as that would, indeed, be a lot easier than the intake. But, I'm going to test it by putting a blue paper towel around the sending unit and the connections such that if they leak the towel will get wet. And then a drive should answer the question.

 

Well, I set myself up for that one. Sure enough, the leak was my fitting where it screwed into the block. Took it off, cleaned it up, gobbed it with PTFE and put it back, this time getting an extra turn out of it. That's done it.

And, I swapped tires between Rusty and Dad's truck. Then I took a drive - what a huge difference! It feels like it rolls sooooo much easier, but that's probably due to the lack of noise. It is much, much quieter. I now find myself going at least 5 MPH faster than I think I'm going, probably because of the drop in noise.

Having said that, there is only 1 MPH difference at an indicated 60. With the bigger tires the speedo showed exactly 60 when the iPhone app is steady on 60, but with these tires when the speedo is on 60 the actual speed is 59. Don't yet know about the odometer, but it was 3% slow with the old tires, so I'm expecting that # to get a bit bigger.

And, it feels easier to drive with the 30 x 9.50's on as opposed to the 31 x 10.50's. It seems like I can just drive w/o needing to correct frequently. However, I only have about 10 miles on it with these tires, so I'll wait to pronounce the final judgement.

 

Like last time, don't go to the bank with this yet, but Rusty got 14.6 MPG on the way up to see Dad today. That should be compared to the 14.1 he got a week ago but with the 31x10.50 tires instead of the 30x9.50's he's wearing today. We still have the putt putting around to do, and it will be the same as last week, and then the trip home. I'll then correct for odometer error and average the two tanks. And, for reference, last time the second tank pulled the average up to 14.25 MPG.

Speaking of errors, with the larger tires the speedo is dead-on, but the odometer is short by 3.0%. With the smaller tires the speedo is slow by ~1.5 MPH at 60, and the odometer reads long by .3%. I adjust for the speedo error in my driving so I always run the same speeds, and adjust the miles for the odometer error. And, I fill up at the same pumps each time and try to get it filled the same - 2 more goes after the pump shuts off the first time.

And, here are some observations about the tire swap:

• With the other tires I said the exhaust noise was gone by 50 MPH. However, there is still exhaust noise even at 65, it was just covered up by tire noise.
  And, it resonates until 55.
• There are far more rattles than I realized, now that I can hear them.
• Rusty is much easier to drive at speed with these tires
• It corners more surely
• It needs OD! With the tire noise I couldn't tell how fast the engine was running, but I can now.
• Overall it much more pleasant to drive

 

Well I'd take humble pie over extra work any day, so I'd say you came out ahead on that one. But you were just being thorough, and in the process you learned a bit about intake gaskets (as did we all).

 

Stands to reason the MPG went up a hair with the smaller tires. While there's not much difference in tire size, the rolling resistance can make a huge difference. Taller tires give more rolling resistance, as do wider tires.

The handling differences can be caused by tread wear, or the lack of it, as well as something as simple as tread pattern.

 

Ok, go to the bank with it - 14.6 average. It took me a little bit to work it out since the amount of fuel and mileage was different, but my math degree finally kicked in and I was able to average the 14.6 going up and the 14.6 coming back to 14.6! So, the smaller tires got me .35 MPG average over ~250 miles

And, I'm glad I swapped tires for another reason - the exhaust. I don't like the noise, but I didn't know that until I peeled back one more layer of the onion of sound - the tires. So, when the time comes I may cut the Flowmaster 40 off and insert something like a longer Magnaflow. Probably will still use the single in/dual out approach since I have the pipes, but I do want it quieter. And, I don't want the resonance at lower speeds.

As for the oil consumption, after 350 miles I'm down ~1/6 of the way from Full to Add. So, it looks like it would use 1 quart in about 2,000 miles, which is acceptable. However, part of that was lost via the oil pressure sending unit leak, and I don't truly know how much of it was. And, I am getting a small puddle under the clutch after a long drive. So, I'm thinking that either the rear main is leaking or one of the soft plugs - assuming this engine has plugs into the oil passages, and I don't know that.

So, it looks like it is a go for swapping engines between Dad's truck and Rusty. And, while Rusty's engine is on the stand I'll probably replace the rear main.

 

If you're gonna go that far, I'd plastigauge the bearings just to see where you're at.

 

And since it is using oil, I would be very tempted to replace the valve stem seals and maybe check the rings.... For the price of a set of gaskets and seals for peace of mind.

 

I'll certainly plastigauge the bearings. And, it would be simple to replace the valve guides since I'll have the covers off to check the cam lift, duration, timing, etc since I'm trying to determine what it is. However, I am still trying to track down the guy that built it to get info on the cam so may not have to do that.

And, having done a leak-down test I know that two valves are leaking just a bit, so I may pull the heads. But in reality the thing runs great and the MPG is certainly good, so the only thing I really need to do is replace the seal.

Anyway, thanks for the input. I'll take it under consideration.

 

What is the diameter of the valve stems? I have two different new in the package valve seals for a Windsor. I want to say they are for 11/32"

 

Dunno. Never had one of these apart. But I might be able to find out when the time comes. Tnx

However, I do want to clarify something - I don't know that it is burning oil. It may be leaking that much out the rear as the drop in 350 miles was ~1/8" on the dip stick. I plan to pull the plugs tomorrow to "read" them, so that may tell the tale.

 

You are going to pull the head and lap the valves?

 

Dunno yet. I'll probably run another leak-down test while the engine is on the stand to confirm the readings. If that shows enough leak I will.