Rusty
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
No, but I should be picking it up today or tomorrow. After the theft incident I have been moving all my equipment in my spare time. I should get almost all of it moved today and then I will have time to go pick it up.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Btw, have you heard from James re the drive shaft? He said he would call when it is ready and indicated it would be early this week, but I realized he may not have my number. No hurry, just wondering. But, I do want to go in and talk with his boss re the ZF5 clutch, so am looking forward to it.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Marysville, WA
I thought I had posted another response... Sorry Gary...
Like I said before, I would go to the next smaller rod, .073, and see what happens while using the factory spec plug. Easier to change two little rods than 8 plugs.
The only reason I would go to colder plugs is if the truck was a highway cruiser, long trips. Hotter plugs for short trips, in town driving.
Like I said before, I would go to the next smaller rod, .073, and see what happens while using the factory spec plug. Easier to change two little rods than 8 plugs.
The only reason I would go to colder plugs is if the truck was a highway cruiser, long trips. Hotter plugs for short trips, in town driving.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I thought I had posted another response... Sorry Gary...
Like I said before, I would go to the next smaller rod, .073, and see what happens while using the factory spec plug. Easier to change two little rods than 8 plugs.
The only reason I would go to colder plugs is if the truck was a highway cruiser, long trips. Hotter plugs for short trips, in town driving.
Like I said before, I would go to the next smaller rod, .073, and see what happens while using the factory spec plug. Easier to change two little rods than 8 plugs.
The only reason I would go to colder plugs is if the truck was a highway cruiser, long trips. Hotter plugs for short trips, in town driving.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
OK, Rusty's shaft is done. James had a few parts laying around that were considered used. What they actually are were previously installed parts that customers couldnt afford and had them removed. So they havent actually seen any live combat. The stub shaft was new,but , the slip yoke was previously installed. He also had one of the Ford Special U joints laying around that was previously installed(probably from the same job)that he put on as well. Of course he balanced it and cleaned it up as well as painted it.
He mentioned something about the U joint that was already installed on the other end had the wrong snap rings on it. Somebody used the inside variety on an outside application. He thought it would work until it doesnt work(whatever that means). He also said he feels sorry for the next guy that has to change it.
He mentioned something about the U joint that was already installed on the other end had the wrong snap rings on it. Somebody used the inside variety on an outside application. He thought it would work until it doesnt work(whatever that means). He also said he feels sorry for the next guy that has to change it.
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From: Marysville, WA
The snap rings he is reffering to have a chamfer to the opening. It is there to make it easy to remove when properly installed on the outside of the cup, ie: \ / where the snap ring pliers would go in from the bottom of the vee to spread the ring open. When installed inside, the chamfer looks like \_/ and there are no holes in the snap ring,. nothing to grab on to.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
OK, Rusty's shaft is done. James had a few parts laying around that were considered used. What they actually are were previously installed parts that customers couldnt afford and had them removed. So they havent actually seen any live combat. The stub shaft was new,but , the slip yoke was previously installed. He also had one of the Ford Special U joints laying around that was previously installed(probably from the same job)that he put on as well. Of course he balanced it and cleaned it up as well as painted it.
He mentioned something about the U joint that was already installed on the other end had the wrong snap rings on it. Somebody used the inside variety on an outside application. He thought it would work until it doesnt work(whatever that means). He also said he feels sorry for the next guy that has to change it.
He mentioned something about the U joint that was already installed on the other end had the wrong snap rings on it. Somebody used the inside variety on an outside application. He thought it would work until it doesnt work(whatever that means). He also said he feels sorry for the next guy that has to change it.
The snap rings he is reffering to have a chamfer to the opening. It is there to make it easy to remove when properly installed on the outside of the cup, ie: \ / where the snap ring pliers would go in from the bottom of the vee to spread the ring open. When installed inside, the chamfer looks like \_/ and there are no holes in the snap ring,. nothing to grab on to.
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Marysville, WA
I have seen them removed two ways. One was drill a small hole opposite the groove the ring sits it and push/punch it out, or weld a rod to the ring near the gap and work it out.
Drilling is much easier.
If the joint has a grease fitting, and you lube it at each oil change, it should last forever making the above irrelevant.
Drilling is much easier.
If the joint has a grease fitting, and you lube it at each oil change, it should last forever making the above irrelevant.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
The joint has a grease fitting, and I will lube it well. Who knows what the NO will do. But, I've seen joints that were seemingly well-lubed fail apparently due to abuse. Again, who knows what the NO will do.
But, my plan was to drill and push it out. Won't take a very big hole to go in with a pin-punch and bring it out far enough to get a screwdriver behind it.
But, my plan was to drill and push it out. Won't take a very big hole to go in with a pin-punch and bring it out far enough to get a screwdriver behind it.
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
The new joint james put in should be a Dana. I dont know what it is about their joints ,but, they are built well. Most of the 4x4 guys prefer them over the high strength or solid U joints classified as heavy duty. My F 250 has the Dana joints from stem to stern. I haul heavy loads as well as do abusive things to it while working. The joints have been in there for several yrs. I check them for slack and slop every time I grease them when its time for service. So far they havent loosened up any at all.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Exmore, VA
Bruno, Dana uses a steel forging, probably AISI 4340, most of the solid joints are made of powdered metal or something like AISI 8620 which is a high carbon case hardenable steel. Either will fail by shattering rather then shearing and at a much lower load.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Put the colder plugs in Rusty, finally, today. And, I'm pretty sure I got any leak in the oil pressure sender unit fixed, but I'm not sure that all of the leak was in that. Drove it around the neighborhood a bit and it didn't leak, but we'll see tomorrow, as I'm taking it down to Bruno's 'hood to pick up the new drive shaft.
And, I'll pull a/the plugs when I get home to see what it/they look like and post a picture. We'll do this in two steps so I know what does what to whom.
And, I'll pull a/the plugs when I get home to see what it/they look like and post a picture. We'll do this in two steps so I know what does what to whom.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Yes, and no. I'm at James' house to get the drive shaft. Brought Rusty down and will pull a plug or two when I get home. Only difference I can tell, and it may be imagination, is that it is a bit more cold-blooded. But, no diff when warm.
I do have a vibration, but I'd noticed it before the plug change. Don't believe it is tires. It is slight and strongest at 60-65, which fits with tires but it just doesn't feel like tires. Anyway, not a large vibe, just something to find. Maybe pilot bearing?
I do have a vibration, but I'd noticed it before the plug change. Don't believe it is tires. It is slight and strongest at 60-65, which fits with tires but it just doesn't feel like tires. Anyway, not a large vibe, just something to find. Maybe pilot bearing?