A turkey-pan intake manifold gasket? Is that what you're talking about?

Swapping a column isn't real hard.

 

Yes, the turkey pan. From the illustrations it looks like that's what seals the valley, so if it is leaking the oil would come out below the intake manifold - I think. And, that's where it looks like it is coming from, although I'm not sure quite yet.

Also, the intake manifold is dry? IOW, no coolant? So, it should be fairly easy to pull the intake and the turkey pan. But, from the drawing it looks like it is actually the gasket for the intake manifold. Is that true?

 

Yes, the turkey pan is the gasket, and the manifold is dry - it has an exhaust crossover, not a coolant crossover.

Some people abandon the turkey pan gasket and use more traditional types that resemble exhaust manifold gaskets. In all cases, most people dispose of the included end pieces (fit between block & manifold) and use black RTV there, instead.

 

I like the idea of keeping the hot oil off of the bottom of the intake, and especially off of the bottom of the exhaust crossover, so I'll probably go with the pan. But, I will use RTV in place of the end pieces.

All of this assumes, of course, that I determine that my oil pressure plumbing isn't leaking. But, I used teflon tape two turns back from the end of the piece, and PTFE sealant on those two threads. That's the combo I use on everything, and it has proven leak-proof on even high pressure fittings.

Which leads me to a question that I'm debating: Do I fix the leak, assuming it is the turkey pan, while the engine is in Rusty, or do I wait until I pull it and have it on the stand during the swap into Dad's truck? While it would be far easier to do on the stand, I'm thinking that it won't be too difficult in the vehicle since there aren't coolant passages to worry about. But, I'd still have to be stretched out in the engine compartment scraping gasket surfaces, and that's a pain.

On the other hand, I'd really like to know that the engine isn't burning oil before I make the swap as I might not swap if it is burning a lot of oil. So, fixing it now would allow me to figure out if that does it by driving Rusty. Further, it would prove to me that the rear main isn't/is leaking, and I'd like to know that as replacing the rear main would be far, far easier on the stand - but I'd rather not do it if there isn't a problem.

Thoughts?

 

I would verify the leak is from the intake manifold gasket before removing it. If it's the stock cast-iron thing, it's around 80 lbs and isn't the easiest thing to deal with given the angles with which you have to work. Removing the hood and using an engine crane is FAR easier (especially on reassembly).

I don't remember for certain but I don't think gasket sealer is used on the intake gaskets. Well, the end pieces will, but those are fairly small and would require minimal work. I like my 2-step for this kind of stuff, it's angled and allows me to extend over the top fairly comfortably (as much as can be, I guess).

'course, there is always this approach:





If you have oil leaking at the top of the engine, I would start there before condemning a rear main seal.

Not sure Podunk has one, but NAPA has dye you put into various fluids (oil, in this case) that fluoresces under black light, can make it easier for determining the source of a leak.

 

Gary , did you drive Rusty to the hood today? If you did was James able to measure the driveshaft area for length? Was it different than what was in it?

 

Chris - Yikes! Cast iron? That would be unwieldy, and it would take the shop crane to put it in precisely. I assumed the turkey pan is sheet metal, like Mopar's. That 9D440 thing is cast? And, no gaskets are shown. What's up with that?

Bruno - Yep, Rusty livened up the 'hood today. We didn't need to measure. James showed me where it had been running by virtue of the wear on the splines, and said that it is just the right length. So, he'll keep it that length.

 

The intake manifold is cast iron, the gasket is flimsy aluminum.

I don't at all remember what kind of carbonator and intake system is on those things (your trucks).

If you have a 4V and aluminum manifold, it's lots easier. I made some studs to install in the four centermost holes to allow the manifold to be installed straight down, worked pretty well.

 

Oh, ok. I have an E'brock system - intake and carb. And, I already have the studs as I always put intakes on that way. Might not make too much difference on an intake that doesn't seal the valley, but on one that does seal the valley you sure don't want to be sliding the intake around and moving your RTV.

So, it shouldn't be too hard to swap the pan out while the engine is still in the truck. That would let me determine how much it is burning rather than leaking, and prove the rear main as well.

Is the valley pan part of the gasket system? If so, then there aren't separate gaskets to buy?

 

If the ends are leaking, the ports may be pulling some oil in.

If you want a fun intake to do, first a 460 intake isn't light, but an FE is a real beast, Ford recommended two people, one in front and one sitting on the cowl to install it.

 

They come as a kit - aluminum tray + end thingies (which are usually tossed).

 

I did a 2V to 4V cast iron swap on the 390 that was in my '72 F250 - by myself. Drove it many, many miles with nary a leak of any kind.

When I put the intake on the 351W I flashed back to the FE and had a hard time believing I did it. I remember sitting in the engine compartment on the driver's side and bending over to place it. Permatex was all over me, but I got it on. I was ~25, so might have been a bit stronger than I am now.

As for pulling oil into the cylinders, it is time I pull all the plugs and "read" them. That may tell the tale as I'm not sure they can be as white as #5 was and be burning much, if any oil. Your thoughts on that?

And, by the way, you didn't answer my question of what the problems might be running it as lean as it apparently is. Don't seem to have any pinging or detonation, although my ears may not be what they used to be.

Got it. The tray is the gasket or has gaskets molded on it.

 

Too lean can cause a slight missfire, you might try dropping one diameter on the cruise step on your metering rod and see how it runs.

 

Can I assume that's if I detect a misfire? I hate to mess with perfection, and I'm thinking 14.25 MPG is just about perfection with a 351M. And, especially a 351M that runs and is rolling 31x10.50's.

Speaking of that, I'm seriously considering swapping the 30x9.50's from Dad's truck onto Rusty and vice versa. The reason being that the whine of the 31's is drowning out everything on Rusty, and I'd like to know what the exhaust sounds like on the 30's as they are a much less aggressive tread and they'll stay on Dad's truck after the transformation. But, I don't want the exhaust if when the tire noise is gone the exhaust is annoying.

And, I'm wondering if there is enough difference in the tires that I can see it in the MPG. If so, I'd like to have a good handle on that since I'm wanting to go about the ZF5 swap such that I know how much of whatever improvement I get is attributable to the tranny. Thoughts?

 

Sounds like I need to bring out the Edelbrock calibration kit.