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Dimensioned drawings, please. This looks like it's for a Big Hat.
If you had to do it over, would you still use 3/4" ply? Would thinner be more appropriate?
Pop
no real solid drawings yet, but i have notes and a prototype.
yes its a tad large for a big hat but that allows a bath towel to be used for filler and smaller models just use more towel.
i was going to use pocket screws for my fasteners but at the last min i changed to 16ga nails. i used 3/4" ply because it can be a little more forgiving to my lack of expearance with wood working and type of fasteners i was useing, and its built like a brick turd house so its sturdy enough to use as a seat or step stool etc.
Well, my red '65 model 200A is about it. Bought it on eBay. The mantles were radioactive in those days. Those would light up the whole campground when pumped up and turned on high. Amazing.
I bought a real nice green Coleman two burner stove to go with it. There's just something real nice about those too. Memories I guess. For hiking I had one of the first Peak 1 stoves, don't know what happened to that. Worked real good, if a little bulky.
Have a couple of the Svea 123 cookstoves but they aren't good for much other than boiling water. They do that well! Best miniature stove, bar none.
Finally built a lantern case from my crude drawings! been talking about doing it for over a year... "don't wanna rush into it... might make a mistake" as dad always says.
Looks great!
Originally Posted by OldBlackCat
no real solid drawings yet, but i have notes and a prototype.
yes its a tad large for a big hat but that allows a bath towel to be used for filler and smaller models just use more towel.
i may try 1/2" later on.
Agree, lighter is better.
Originally Posted by Tedster9
Well, my red '65 model 200A is about it. Bought it on eBay. The mantles were radioactive in those days. Those would light up the whole campground when pumped up and turned on high. Amazing.
That's my favorite; plenty bright and sips the fuel. Ran one 12 hrs straight this past weekend; turned down the fuel flow and was happy to see it still burning with my morning coffee!
Spent some time squaring it away and clean everything up. Good websites break it down w/ photos. Except the generator innards?
It looks to me like the hook end of the cleaning needle installs into a hole at the adjustment lever itself correct? I had to loosen the cage pal nut to get clearance for generator to be re-installed. Whoever installed it last must have skipped this step? It works fine, just wondered.
It looks to me like the hook end of the cleaning needle installs into a hole at the adjustment lever itself correct? I had to loosen the cage pal nut to get clearance for generator to be re-installed. Whoever installed it last must have skipped this step? It works fine, just wondered.
On a 200a, you can remove the cage or not. If not, the genny will slide up into the air/fuel tube enough to loosen the genny nut and slide out of the eccentric block (what you call adjustment lever). Note there should be 2 washers under the cage pal nut and under the genny. Both are below the cage.
"Something about men and washers...these two keep the frame setting correctly on the valve and help keep undo pressure off the frame rest. In other words, they are necessary. If you don't have two take your valve down to the hardware store (later) and find washers to fit! Fig 5B)."
Yeah, i read that... before I dived into it. Try as I might I was unable to install the generator and install the hook end into the hole without lifting the cage out. No idea why, there just isn't clearance. Both washers are installed. I didn't break it down much farther than that, just tightened all the fittings up a smidge.
It needs a new fuel cap, can get tank to hold pressure but just barely. Normally a lantern should run for hours on without pumping, right? Other than that it seems to run noticeably better. And that mantle/nut assembly isn't popping off. Muffler dope is one suggestion, and while J-B weld is only rated to 450F it seems to do the job
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