NO Start
I checked all the injector ohm readings again through the pigtail receiver and they were all about 3.-3.5 ohms.
With all the pigtails disconneced from their receiver should I have continuity between pin 3 and pin 2 and pin 3 and pin 4. Because I don't.
With all the pigtails disconneced from their receiver should I have continuity between pin 3 and pin 2 and pin 3 and pin 4. Because I don't.
Another thing:
I hope someone can figure this out.
I have all four pigtails disconned.
When I try to measure voltage to the two injector pins on each connector with a volt meter by connecting across from pin 3 (gnd) to either pin 2 or 4 I get no voltage reading.
But when I put negative lead from my meter to a ground on the frame and then measure voltage to the middle pin on one bank of cylinders the voltage is 1.3 and on the other bank it is 4.7 volts.
Now what?
I hope someone can figure this out.
I have all four pigtails disconned.
When I try to measure voltage to the two injector pins on each connector with a volt meter by connecting across from pin 3 (gnd) to either pin 2 or 4 I get no voltage reading.
But when I put negative lead from my meter to a ground on the frame and then measure voltage to the middle pin on one bank of cylinders the voltage is 1.3 and on the other bank it is 4.7 volts.
Now what?
I pulled off the valve cover(drivers side) and all the wires underneath look new.
Why do two of the glow plugs have a red wire going to them and two of them have a black wire?
What is the best way to ohm the glow plug from underneath the valve cover?
Why do two of the glow plugs have a red wire going to them and two of them have a black wire?
What is the best way to ohm the glow plug from underneath the valve cover?
That is the Vehicle reference voltage...
For future reference, If you hold the ICP connector looking into it with the latch on top, the left pin is Vref, center is ICP signal, and right is Signal return. The corresponding wire colors should be brown/white, dark blue/light green, and grey/red.
At key on, you should get a .25v to .4v signal. Operational range for the sensor is .65v to 3.25v. Some approximate pressures compared to voltage signal would be:
500psi = about .85-.87v
1000psi = about 1.4v
1800psi = about 2.3v
2400psi = about 3v
3000psi = about 3.8v
For future reference, If you hold the ICP connector looking into it with the latch on top, the left pin is Vref, center is ICP signal, and right is Signal return. The corresponding wire colors should be brown/white, dark blue/light green, and grey/red.
At key on, you should get a .25v to .4v signal. Operational range for the sensor is .65v to 3.25v. Some approximate pressures compared to voltage signal would be:
500psi = about .85-.87v
1000psi = about 1.4v
1800psi = about 2.3v
2400psi = about 3v
3000psi = about 3.8v
THe PCM reads what the ICP sensor is reporting based on ICP pressure during cranking. If it doesnt see what it wants it tries to raise ICP by closing the IPR (duty cycle increases ) If you are not seeing voltage ,or voltage increasing you may need to un plug the ICP sensor & let the PCM determine what it needs based on other parameters . The PCM itself may be an issue ..
Do you have access to a scan tool ?
Do you have access to a scan tool ?
WE have hooked up two different scanners, with no luck. The last one was a blue point from snap on, and initially it said , no codes, then it went haywire. The first scanner didn't work right either.
The icp sensor is a resistor. 5v in and what ever pressure determines the voltage out which is sent to the pcm to determine parameters. The only way you will have power at the vc plugs is if the injectors are firing. If the PCM isn't seeing 500 psi of pressure from the icp the IDM will not fire off the injectors. With the key off there shouldn't be voltage at the vc plugs.
Without a data stream your just throwing parts till it starts. Most snapon's will read a powerstroke engine. Make sure he set all the info right when setting up and has the right chip. Mine wouldnt pull data the other day and we had to set it for a 95. Also make sure your power point fuse is good.
The truck will run with the vc off. Where did you check the ohm's on the vc gasket or on the wiring harness? I don't think I would pull the IDM apart live again. There is a lot of dc amperage and voltage. 100v dc with the amps to run the injectors can easily kill you.
Without a data stream your just throwing parts till it starts. Most snapon's will read a powerstroke engine. Make sure he set all the info right when setting up and has the right chip. Mine wouldnt pull data the other day and we had to set it for a 95. Also make sure your power point fuse is good.
The truck will run with the vc off. Where did you check the ohm's on the vc gasket or on the wiring harness? I don't think I would pull the IDM apart live again. There is a lot of dc amperage and voltage. 100v dc with the amps to run the injectors can easily kill you.
Before I pulled the valve cover off, I checked the injector ohms by pulling the pigtail off the valve cover harness and checking the male pins. All the injectors showed around 3 ohms.
All the wiring inside the valve covers looks really good. I do have two glow plugs not working on that side though.
I am debating whether to put new o rings on the injectors since I have the valve cover off, but I might hold off.
I doubt it is the injectors. They wouldn't all quit at once while driving down the road. The power to them might though.
All the wiring inside the valve covers looks really good. I do have two glow plugs not working on that side though.
I am debating whether to put new o rings on the injectors since I have the valve cover off, but I might hold off.
I doubt it is the injectors. They wouldn't all quit at once while driving down the road. The power to them might though.
That is the Vehicle reference voltage...
For future reference, If you hold the ICP connector looking into it with the latch on top, the left pin is Vref, center is ICP signal, and right is Signal return. The corresponding wire colors should be brown/white, dark blue/light green, and grey/red.
At key on, you should get a .25v to .4v signal. Operational range for the sensor is .65v to 3.25v. Some approximate pressures compared to voltage signal would be:
500psi = about .85-.87v
1000psi = about 1.4v
1800psi = about 2.3v
2400psi = about 3v
3000psi = about 3.8v
For future reference, If you hold the ICP connector looking into it with the latch on top, the left pin is Vref, center is ICP signal, and right is Signal return. The corresponding wire colors should be brown/white, dark blue/light green, and grey/red.
At key on, you should get a .25v to .4v signal. Operational range for the sensor is .65v to 3.25v. Some approximate pressures compared to voltage signal would be:
500psi = about .85-.87v
1000psi = about 1.4v
1800psi = about 2.3v
2400psi = about 3v
3000psi = about 3.8v
Do the above quote, works as a crude gauge and some useful info. Just make sure its a good voltmeter and set it to 9 volts such as for a battery. Low amperage in the circuit. Try this while cranking the engine. Can eleminate the hpop system as a problem. Which would possibly point toward the idm.


