Oh **** eh lol that thing is sweet well as a diesel guy just to drive again I need to pay 2000 in fines and I make 10.00 an hour so maybe not so easy and u still did not answer me would u do 4x or 2x also why a dt466 superduty is that for daily or pulling ? My truck is being built as a smoking hot daily and an exhibition puller,,, I keep reading about the RTO610 seems awesome!!!

 

I would prefer a 4x4, but as a working truck down where I live, a 2wd is better. The 2wd keeps the level of the bed lower, which is a butt saver for me when I haul heavy stuff, like a dt466, dt360, or ford 6.6.

 

Whats the difference between a RTO610 and an RTO6610 ? Also I love the idea of a IH themed 250 I'm still worried about my drive shafts Axles and differentials exploding with the power what do I do about all that stuff and I want an ext cab long box they are hard to find in good condition also who can do a SAE dual disk street clutch and I want a shift kit also to shft harder like hard shifts lol grrr I want to bud this now!!!!

 

The 610 is rated at 600 ft pounds. The 6610 is rated at 660 ft pounds.
There's been plenty of guys running big power on the rear Sterling axle, just going to need a Dana 60 up front, if it's a 4X4. Low rpm torque breaks stuff REALLY fast. That's why, when you get to the timing portion of your build, you're gonna set it to around 24*. That'll move the power band up in the rpm range, and less likely to break driveline stuff.
The clutch, you can find good discs from a truck dealer, but South Bend can set it up to hold big power.
You need a side biz, sirrr!

 

Aside biz?
Only 660 ? Is that on the transmission or the sterling axel and are u saying I at the power band to 2400 rpm I won't break parts ? U gotta be a lil more detailed never built a truck before Dale again I feel the need to thank you

Thank you
Thank you
Thank you

 

You're finding out why this is my hobby though.
Yep, 660 on the RTO6610 or 6613. Keep in mind the NV4500 is rated at like 650 ft pounds, and guys are pushing 4 times that much thru them.
I was saying to set the timing to 24 degrees before TDC. Stock is about 13. Same as a gasser, in a way. So, at 24* before TDC, the injection starts to spray.
By no means does that suggest it wont break stuff. It's just less likely.

 

I am figuring out why you love this and that's how I want to be I want to love what I do for a living and I want to breath and bleed diesel...

TDC ? Also the th 6613 is there an advantage for my application over the 6610 also 650 for the nv4500 wow they are like 4x the price of a road ranger Aldo and I read some road rangers in pick ups people love the rto10 I'm sure I will also....lol I'm so excited

 

How do you build a bullit proof drive train also are there enough spare parts for these engines and transmissions that I can make this a reliable effective daily ? Cause I just thought of this now as a diesel tech in school in want this to be my daily! any suggestions also Dale on how I can learn more. ?

 

I dont do it for a living because I found a job that pays the bills. I'm actually a Lineman with the local phone co. I was a mekanik in the Army, which gave the basics. I started getting the fever watching the original Trucks TV show when they did a 96 Dodge 5 speed. Took it from stock 215hp to 298hp/650tq. It's a passionate hobby for me these days.
TDC is Top Dead Center.
The only benefit of a 6613 ofer a 6610 is having 3 more gears to choose from.
A truck like that will really make a diesel teacher happy.
Those engines and transmissions are quite plentiful. Nothing to worry about for parts.
Where to learn? various forums, or go out to some tractor pulls, and pay intense attention to the engines' noises. You can pick up if a turbo is spooling too slow, or surging. You can tell if the rpm isnt right, and the pull will go bad. You can tell how high the timing is when you're really in tune with your skills.

 

Learn what you can about troubleshooting the Cat C13-15, the Detroit Series 60, and a DT466E. Just those alone would keep you busy at a shop til you retire.

 

Building the bulletproof drive train is basic. Keep everything as big as you can fit in there. Big, thick, beefy.

 

Ok so. Funny thing I was an armored solider (Canadian army) back in the day rofl also I'm always at the truck and tractor pulls and the 2 gen cummins 12 valve that's easy I think u get 95 hp and 190 lbs from a factory engine when u pinch the waste gate turn up the p pump and the turbo ( free 95 hp with a screw driver woot) I love the 12 v lol so if I should be going big beefy and thick why not a RTO613 + dt466 ? btw what's the E for dt466e stand for ? And I was reading a pliny thread the other day guy has a 4v53T with a roadranger 10 speed daily Chevrolet Aaron approves... Biggest axels would be Dana 80 front and rear ? Again junk yard swaps ? If I'm keeping it biggest and beefiest where the he'll is my fuel economy going to go now I'm slightly worried

 

I dont mean to use big rig axles, just use a Dana 80, Sterling, or GM 14 bolt. Getting yokes with the biggest U-joints is another way to keep it beefy. Yes, this is all bone yard stuff.
My first diesel hot rod was a 97 Dodge with an auto. Started at 180hp, and I think it was about 340hp when I sold it. I did 4k gov springs, home made #0 plate(which is now in a work truck's dt466), 370 injectors, and upgraded compressor wheel in the turbo. It kept up with the old 5 litre mustangs. Dont be sad, you'll have an IH 12 Valve. Just like I have a Ford 12 valve. A few of the Dodge boys dont like when I use that term.
Lesson of the day, dont pinch off the wastegate. It actually gives you more EGT than power. More fuel=more booost. That is, until you run out of turbo, and need to go bigger.
E is the electronic version of the 466. Not to be ****, but they didnt make a V4 Detroit. It would just be 4-53T. He has a few youtube vids too. It runs real nice. I love to hear any of the Detroits at idle.
There's an ad on diesel garage's classifieds that shows a 92 IH 4700 that gets 12-14mph with his dt360. That's not bad at all for a 15-20k pound truck. My Ford 300 gets 11-12.

 

Ok so a 12v IH does not bother ne my block will kill a 12v cummins now a few more questions ya d80 are easy junk to find ew gm 14 bolt no thx IH + fire only lol 94 2500 ram Dana 80 rear rofl lets not focus on Detroit let's just figure out how I get reliable streetable power for daily to the ground 600-1000 hp streetable to the floor for the cheapest and the vest fuel economy!!! Also I still don't know am I going 466 or 360 I'm still thinking 360 + RTO610 but also what gear would I start in offthe line and ya I want to build the truck and have it driving than I'll worry about mods... After I can always drive it with stock hp and trq until I can afford mods !!! But that's the plan so far also u mentioned turbos are they too be compounded smaller spooled into bigger or twins 1 per bank ? Also u got a hx3b for 150 How the **** did u do that !!!! I want streetable traffic merging highway racing power with fuel economy !!! Lol Dale I need concrete answers to build my truck remember u said that takes away the fun!!! That's what I want I want to know what works and what doesn't the fun part for me is buying parts for good deals and rebuilding it I might buy a blown engine and a rebuild kit just to learn this is my project my daily my sled puller (fun only) my race car (ego boost only) all in one truck bro and I'm 23 u can see my motives thx a lot again Dale hey think when my beast is built I'll road trip to the states meet u face to face and buy u some real beer for u and I to drink lol (Canadian beer ) lol than we can go to the local strip and smack a few dodge and chevy boys (barf) lol

 

No need to swap out to a Dana80, when you should already have a Sterling 10.25 in the truck. That's what I'm swapping up to.
I'm still saying a 360 will be the best route over all. True, it would be less hassle and expense if you just run it as it sits, except for maybe the freebie power mods. After you get a real paying job, you can go for the big power. The basic foundation will already be there. Closer to 1000hp you get, the more likely it'll be needing lower compression, and stronger bolts inside, and a hotter cam, just to throw some ideas out there.
For empty driving, you would shift 3,5,7,8,9,10, or even 4,7,9,10.
Yep, compounds just the same sizing as a 12 valve Dodge would buy. There is no different banking on a straight 6, unless you split the manifold to 2 different paths to 2 small turbos, but there's not any advantage that way, except for visual appeal.
I did get an HT3B for $150...it's all in who you know. Actually, it needs a rebuild($80), and a new compressor wheel($78). Then, it'll be like new. A new one is around $700 these days. I've seen good used ones go for about $450.
It may be a good deal to get a core engine that just has a ton of miles on it. Figure $500 for that, then around $1500-ish for a stock rebuild. Add a bit more for kustom pistons. For best economy, you cant lower the compression too terribly much.
I had another idear for you. Find a local tractor puller, the actual farm that runs the tractor, and be a volunteer crew member. Explain what you're after, so they arent thinking you're after racer's secrets. That's a whole lot more than you can learn by spectating from bleachers.