The camper thread! Pulling, using, equipment, maintenance!
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 320
Likes: 1
Sounds like you've got a bad battery. With the system plugged into 110 and the converter on you should measure 13.5 - 13.9 V with all the loads turned off. Even with everything on you shouldn't be able to pull this down to 12. With everything off you should measure at least 12.5 on the battery by itself. If you want to know for sure plug the trailer in over night and then disconnect the battery. If you measure anything below 12.3V at the battery terminals after it has been charged all night with nothing connected to it then it is toast. My first cheapo battery that the manufacturer put in only lasted a year. Now I have an Optima and I'm going on three years (I did put in a four stage smart charger at the same time so that helped I'm sure). Also that reminds me. Check the water in your battery. If you have the original converter in your trailer from the factory then it will be slowly boiling your battery any time you are plugged in and don't have some load turned on in the trailer. The factory converters are really pretty bad on the batteries. Well that should be enough for now let us know if you figure out what is going on.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
I normally run the antifreeze threw the whole system Luckily my tank is just under the couch. So it only takes one gallon in the tank which I can lift to get all the antifreeze in the pickup corner of the tank then run the pump and every faucet and toilet.
Every year I think about blowing out the lines but this is just so much easier and no worries about a missed little spot of water somewhere.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 320
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Snowseeker
I normally run the antifreeze threw the whole system Luckily my tank is just under the couch. So it only takes one gallon in the tank which I can lift to get all the antifreeze in the pickup corner of the tank then run the pump and every faucet and toilet.
Every year I think about blowing out the lines but this is just so much easier and no worries about a missed little spot of water somewhere.
Every year I think about blowing out the lines but this is just so much easier and no worries about a missed little spot of water somewhere.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,050
Likes: 1,549
From: Media PA
For winterization here I do both, first blow out with low pressure air and then use the factory supplied RV antifreeze connection to the water pump and fill the system that way which also fills the traps with AF and puts a little into the grey and black tanks to keep the valve seals wet. All this after I isolate and drain the water heater of course.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,532
Likes: 495
From: NC
This is my 2nd winter with the TT, last year I winterized and everything went fine. I dewinterized in Feb for a trip and before we came home I did a quick winterize at the campground by blowing air in the system and a little pink. When I went to use the camper in April the toilet valve and grey water gate valve had cracked.
Lesson learned, I will do what Tom says and run the pink through the system just to make sure I have everything.
Lesson learned, I will do what Tom says and run the pink through the system just to make sure I have everything.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 3
From: Colorado
Air + the pink stuff is the most economical way to go. The air will get most of the water out and prevent diluting the pink stuff too much. You will also need less of the pink stuff.
You can buy an adapter to fit an airhose (7 bucks at wally world) or make your own.
There are several videos on youtube.
And don 't forget the outside shower and the washer/dryer connections !
You can buy an adapter to fit an airhose (7 bucks at wally world) or make your own.
There are several videos on youtube.
And don 't forget the outside shower and the washer/dryer connections !
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 320
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by az_r2d1
And don 't forget the outside shower and the washer/dryer connections !
Made that mistake the first year. Getting ready for the first trip of the second year turned the water pump on and had both outside showers start pouring water onto my driveway.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 427
Likes: 5
From: Central Pennsylvania
For winterization here I do both, first blow out with low pressure air and then use the factory supplied RV antifreeze connection to the water pump and fill the system that way which also fills the traps with AF and puts a little into the grey and black tanks to keep the valve seals wet. All this after I isolate and drain the water heater of course.
That is exactly how I go about putting her up for the winter. Open the valve on the water tank, flip the valving to isolate the water heater, let it drain and use the water pump and RV non-toxic antifreeze connection to open the hot/cold valves one at a time. Don't forget the shower head and outside shower.
Also, don't forget to remove the water filter from the housing. The antifreeze will not displace all of the water in the filter and it will crack the housing if it happens to freeze.
We also dump a generous amount of windshield washer fluid down the traps and grey/black holding tanks. Cheap insurance.
It was a great summer and it is sad to see it come to an end. A couple more PSU football games and off to heated hibernation she goes for the winter!
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 3
From: Colorado
Yes common thing. They are hardly used so people forget.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 320
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by az_r2d1
Yes common thing. They are hardly used so people forget.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,263
Likes: 149
From: In the field...
I am thinking of "winterizing" mine by trading up.
Looking at Microlite 25DS by Flagstaff or Prime Time/Forest River Tracer Air both are 25' versions, front and rear door, 1 slide out.
I am leaning toward the Flagstaff from what I have read via reviews on the Tracer.
Looking at Microlite 25DS by Flagstaff or Prime Time/Forest River Tracer Air both are 25' versions, front and rear door, 1 slide out.
I am leaning toward the Flagstaff from what I have read via reviews on the Tracer.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,050
Likes: 1,549
From: Media PA
Mark, if you move up to one of those larger trailers you may need to UPGRADE to a V-10 to handle the increased load.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,886
Likes: 3,424
From: Ohio
I just open the low point drains and let it gravity drain, bypass the hot water tank and drain that, then run 2 gallons of pink through all lines. I have a supply tank bypass so it's easy to get it all in.