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Just pulled in from 8 days of fun. It took a whole day (24 hours) for the fridge to start getting cold after being switched to "gas". Does the coolant (ammonia I read) ever leak out? I can't see how it could really. Can it be refilled?
Was that the first time of the season to start the fridge? My previous trailer always needed a burp to get going in the spring. I'd run the nose down for a few minutes, then run it up high for a few, then level and it was fine. Started doing that when it was 8 yrs old or so.
Did you run it on electric at first to get cold? Most of them take a lot longer to get cold on gas from a warm start.
Like anything, they can leak, but it's usually terminal if they do. Don't think they can be recharged.
Yes it was the first time this year using it. I did run it on electric for a few days before switching over and heading out. I never did check it after turning it on on electric but wife never mentioned it feeling cold or warm when filling up the fridge.
We only noticed it was warm after getting to the campsite and seeing our popsicles had melted. Then the next day it started cooling down and then worked like normal after that.
I did read that if an RV fridge doesn't get used allot some sort of particles can build up in the ammonia lines and plug the system. It sounds very much like my case. I read once it happens it will always happen because the particles never go away and only accumulate more.
Only problem i've had with my rv fridge was in North Dakota last winter when it got below about -15 it wouldn't work. I had to block off the outside vent and run it on gas so it would be warm enough to cool, if that makes sense haha.
Only problem i've had with my rv fridge was in North Dakota last winter when it got below about -15 it wouldn't work. I had to block off the outside vent and run it on gas so it would be warm enough to cool, if that makes sense haha.
Exactly. The coolant gets too cold to circulate in the system and it freezes up causing the fridge to stop working. Been there done that. Lol.
Never had a issue in warm weather though. But the fridge stays about 40*. Prob get colder if some people would close it all the way....
A thought just occurred to me about RV fridge's. A LOT of them have been recalled over the years for bad gas valves and a few other issues. I found out about the recall in my last trailer when I smelled gas and the valve was leaking and I was looking for parts. Trailer was 15 yrs old, but it was still covered. It tends to turn them into crispy marshmellows, so you might want to check to see if yours (ANDY) is one of them. And of course it might have nothing to do with it.
Okay so I think I got the WD hitch taken care of today. I used rivet nuts. After trying to locate the rivet nuts (July 22nd back order from Reese), trying to find an 11/16ths drill bit (couldn't find one, 5/8ths with a sloppy hand got it done) and finding the time to do it, its done. Took it down to the CAT scale and had it weighed. What do you guys think? It was weighed with 1/2 a tank of fuel and no passangers. Truck front 3980 lbs rear 3860 lbs for a total of 7,840 lbs. Trailer front 3580 lbs rear 3620 lbs. Truck with trailer steer axle 4000 lbs drive axle 4820 lbs trailer axles 7300 lbs total combination 16120 lbs.
It seems like you did pretty good with the WD setup. My understanding is you should return front axle to the same weight. You pretty much nailed it.
Does the trailer sit level on flat ground?
Also if you hit the scales again, get a 3rd ticket with the trailer hooked up, but the WD disconnected. You can compute the actual tongue weight from that....
I don't think the self tapping screws should ever be used on a tube frame, especially on a heavy trailer.
If you're trailer is heavy, you may want to look into securing the snap-ups too.
I also like the idea of somehow protecting tube frames from the pinch bolts digging in.
I also had problems with the DC self tappers in a tube frame. I created a no drill solution, but it was a lot of work.
A good exercise to go through is to find an empty parking lot and go there with the trailer. Make left and right hand turns with frequent inspections as the angle between the EX and the trailer gets closer to 90 degrees and inspect for binding.
Some examples:
WD Bar/Ball Nut:
Clears:
Does not clear (Different hitch head):
Bar to frame: Clears Below
Friction Ball mount on passenger side - there's no fix, but it's good to have a feel for when you're getting close and to see if that's your limiting factor:
Of course, also watch for the bumper hitting the trailer, propane tank, frame and for the inside bar to be in a position to fall out (depending on the type of bars you have).
With a dual cam do any of you drop the bars before backing in? Also, I read you can put some vaseline on the trunnion bars to help with noise, has anyone tried waxing them? Talking about parrifin wax, not slippery finish wax.
With a dual cam do any of you drop the bars before backing in?
Not here, but if I felt I had a special case where the bars might be an issue I would. For example a strange off camber situation or a very sharp turn where I was coming up to some turning limit that I established in a parking lot.
Originally Posted by BigGreenEx
Also, I read you can put some vaseline on the trunnion bars to help with noise, has anyone tried waxing them? Talking about parrifin wax, not slippery finish wax.
You grease or oil them at the hitch end. I only know about using vaseline on the cam end. I'm not aware of alternatives, but Reese may be able to tell you if that is an option if you call them.
Also, be aware that you should mark the bars (I use a zip tile on one at the trunion) and use them on the same side each time. The bars and cams will wear in over time.
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Then the next day it started cooling down and then worked like normal after that.
