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Our Gulfstream has a normal mount hitch and the 1000# bars are correct for our TT, it's about 8800 loaded. Thanks for the headsup!
With that trailer weight I'd be looking at a set of 1200lb spring bars. I like to have the setup prepared for 15% tongue weight based on the trailer GVWR if possible. With our combo I'm a little under that goal as 1400lb bars are the max for the Hensley and our TT runs about 1400lbs tongue weight. I'm good as is but I don't think that we will be adding the optional washer/dryer to the front closet in our trailer as we are maxed out on the bars now.
With that trailer weight I'd be looking at a set of 1200lb spring bars. I like to have the setup prepared for 15% tongue weight based on the trailer GVWR if possible. With our combo I'm a little under that goal as 1400lb bars are the max for the Hensley and our TT runs about 1400lbs tongue weight. I'm good as is but I don't think that we will be adding the optional washer/dryer to the front closet in our trailer as we are maxed out on the bars now.
Have you ran across the scales? My Sherline weighed my tounge in at 1200. But it might be due to the furniture changes we made in the rear. Once i get home and everything done i am planning a few hours at the scales to get it dialed in just perfectly. Finger crossed
I don't have a good scale weight on it now that we are fully loaded (it stays pretty much loaded the same for all trips now that we have settled into it), but I'm pretty confident about that 1400 lb TW based on the weights when new and empty.
The trip we are on right now (Douglass Lake in TN) is a 10 hour run each way so budgeting time into that one day drive for a stop at the CAT scales is tough.
I bet it will be tough to find time for the scales on that long of a drive. I cant wait to be able to pull the camper that far without changing pants and seat cushion . Ill get some good weights in about 12 days and we will know everything for sure.
Your pants and seat cushion will really enjoy pulling with the new Pro Pride hitch!
We made the 611 mile tow down here yesterday at an average moving speed of 61.6 MPH, the second tank of gas calculated out to be 8.85 MPG from Verona VA to Dandridge TN (316 miles), that part of the trip is ALL mountains, Blue Ridge and Smokies. Super stable the entire way with one hand on the wheel while the Bride and I enjoyed a good audio book.
Really getting the itch now, our site in 2 weeks is on the lake at Devils Fork in SC. I dewinterized and sanitized the water system, hot water heater is on, A/C is on (love having a 30 AMP RV outlet in the drive) and wife is getting stuff together. I will probably was the unit tomorrow then check the running gear.
This is the first outing with the new yaks, we had thought that we would use a step ladder to load/unload them but when we loaded up for the test drive we (wife and I) found that the ladder was not needed. My Bride stood on the second row door sill (using the open door as a backstop) and I lifted the boats up to her where she then directed the bow into the forward J cradle, I then (with her helping from her perch) lifted the stern into the outboard cradle on that side. Then I stood on the rear bumper (with both barn doors wide open and the upper hatch closed) and lifted the stern into the proper cradle and then we strapped that boat down. If our son is with us then that saves me from getting up and down from the bumper for each yak, I'll stay on the bumper and he can lift them up as he is younger, stronger and taller (and smarter and better looking.....) than me.
I've been thinking about doing the '08+ rear bumper swap because I like the updated look of them but now I'm even more motivated to do it but with some cutting and welding to make it about 3" deeper (front to back) to give us a slightly larger top surface. I'm not getting any younger and it will be easier to work while standing on it with just a little more room.
I've been thinking about doing the '08+ rear bumper swap because I like the updated look of them but now I'm even more motivated to do it but with some cutting and welding to make it about 3" deeper (front to back) to give us a slightly larger top surface. I'm not getting any younger and it will be easier to work while standing on it with just a little more room.
How about using longer brackets?
Not as long as the SD's just not as short as the Ex.
How about using longer brackets?
Not as long as the SD's just not as short as the Ex.
Actually Mark that was my first thought, then the more I looked and thought on it I think making it into a welding project will give me a better end result. I want to keep the bumper to body gap at the bumper ends at the stock distance while gaining the extra top surface area. I'll have to give some more thought as to how to deal with a pad on the larger top surface as with the amount of extension I want the stocker will not be wide enough to cover back under the doors.
This will also push the end of the bumper that much closer to any trailers but for my situation that should not be an issue as all of my hitches have some extra length either from adjustable drops or the Hensley's added length. The receiver tube's end will be completely under the bumper with this mod but that shouldn't be an issue either.
Careful with those barn doors open and the hatch shut!
Yes, everyone involved was reminded about the hatch glass vs barn door possibilities!
We also did place a foam yoga mat on the roof edge between the racks to protect the EX's paint when lifting and sliding the yaks into place.
How do you handle getting your yaks up on the roof Andy?
I use a short (two step) stool/ladder deal. I have two solid shafts I slide into the ends of the yak rack that then stick out about 2.5' to the side of the X. I lift one end of a yak up onto one shaft, then the other, then push the yak up onto the J brackets. Pull the shafts out of the rack and over to the other side. It works pretty slick. Might be hard to understand or picture by my description. I will try to remember pics when we load everything up for our first trip.
My wife only has to hold the other end of the yak so it doesn't slip off the shaft.
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