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issues getting engine swap to run, help.

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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #106  
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49fordpickumup
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From: Kansas City, Mo
About this project of removing the computer and unused sensors. Without these parts you lose the fuel savings advantage. If it works you just have a lower milage 302 block with the look. I would consider, if possible, buy new or pick-a-part earlier Distributor/intake manifold/carb and be done with it. If you keep the truck, you can work on it. chuck
 
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 10:57 PM
  #107  
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carnut122
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From: Waleska, GA
Originally Posted by Email crasher
after grounding out the 30 pin wire, i checked the codes and all we have is 81, 82, and 87. NO 67.

BUT, the motor will start and run for about 2 seconds and then die. even if i give it gas.

i disconnected the battery and im gonna go out there again and check it out again.
Do you have a Haynes or Chilton's manual for this motor ( It'll show you how to check the pick-up coil in the distributor)? Is it running the original distributor? I may incorrect on this, but since it doesn't have a crank sensor, the pick-up coil in the bottom of the distributor tells the computer(I know, you're not running the computer) that the engine is spinning and thus the injectors are allowed to fire. If there is no signal, the computer does not allow the injectors to fire. Do you have access to NOID lights to see if the injectors are firing? Or maybe you could swap in a known good distributor? Sorry, I haven't read the entire thread, so I'm not sure what you've done.

Jeff- Yep an 88 Fiero with a 3.4 Camaro engine (for a little more oomph). It's a fun little car.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 09:16 PM
  #108  
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Alright everyone, we're back at it tonight. Sorry for the delay, I work weekends. So, I got to the house before email crasher showed up, I started the truck with the 30 pin un-grounded, it would idle up for a second then just die. Very consistently. Finally, I started it and just kept revving the engine and it settled at a nice smooth idle. SWEET! Then it started loping, not so sweet. I grounded the 30 pin and it smoothed right out, just like in that video. AWESOME!

I threw it in reverse and backed out into the street. Step 1 down.
Put it in drive and started accellerating, *cough cough sputter sputter dead*
So, it'll idle along fine now, even in gear, but now it won't accellerate under throttle.

Baby steps...

it's throwing codes 81, 82, 87 still. 81 reads-air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit fault/air injection diverter. I know that it was said that this fault can be overlooked, but could it be a bad IAC? Those are the KOEO codes.

There were two constant codes, which i just got, they are
22-MAP or BARO sensor out of range (I'm thinking BINGO!! right here, I could be wrong)
66-VAF/mass air flow sensor fault, below min. voltage--OR--TOT (what is TOT) sensor signal input below self-test min, or vane air flow circuit below min (e40d)
87-fuel pump outside of circuit, no biggie
and 95-fuel pump secondary circuit fault, again, not a big deal. I don't think.

Oh forum doG's of FTE, what say you? Buy a new MAP sensor and cross my fingers? lol
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #109  
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Jeff and Nicolle
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If you can find another used one do that! or you could buy a new one but that part is up to you...but yeah MAP....but I have questions about the power to the NSS. anyway i would make sure there is power getting to the MAP...you said that the harness was cut up somewhere, just a thought before you spend more money.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #110  
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check that out. I told you to ground pin 30 and I am pretty sure that just the opposite is correct, but I will wait and see what this MAP code does for you.. TOT = Tranny Oil Temp...don't think that is the problem...
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:16 PM
  #111  
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I am wondering if some of those codes are coming up due to a reference voltage wire being cut/disconnected/etc. most of the power going in or out of the EEC computer is 5 volts...NOT 12 volts...did I mention this before? so don't hook 12v pos up to the computer or sensors without knowing this. BTW good man! check them codes! fix what ya can, disconnect the battery, reconnect and do it again!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:26 PM
  #112  
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one more thought...in the beginning we talked about that reservoir between the low press. fuel pump and the high press. pump. Ford put it there for a reason...its possible that the high pressure pump starves for fuel under a load...probably should seem like it, but again...ford put it in there for a reason...just a thought...make sure you are not losing your fuel pressure.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:42 PM
  #113  
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I won't be able to get back on here until tomorrow evening, but will check on your progress then. good luck Joe and email crasher! Jeff
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 09:27 PM
  #114  
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Neutral switch

Just reading about your neutral sw issue; I read over this thread but didn't pickup on what the year and donor are. I have a '90 5.0 L with aod. The wiring for neutral switch on AOD has purple -orange wire which is hot from fuse #5; black- pink wire goes to backup lights; wht-pink wire goes to start position on ignition key and parallels to pin #30 on EEC; red-lt blue goes to start relay. So with tranny in PARK: hot goes to white-pink, which feeds start on ign. In NEUTRAL power also feed the start function. In REVERSE: back up lights see power. Hope this helps; but should have no effect on sputter under load.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 07:40 PM
  #115  
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what happened to ya Joe?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #116  
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49fordpickumup
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From: Kansas City, Mo
SPOUT - TFI output signal to computer. This connection allows the computer to control engine ignition timing. When disconnected, ignition timing is fixed to the base timing as set by a timing light.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
================================================== =====================================TFI Module - Thick Film Integrated Ignition Module. This and the stator take the place of points in the distributor. It is the rectangular gray box bolted to the side of the distributor.<o></o>
Latest find. chuck
 
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 08:45 PM
  #117  
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Sorry we haven't been on in a while, got busy with work and scheduling conflicts. We tried the new MAP and nothing changed, it's not throwing any codes that would effect running under load. I'm waiting on the fuel accumulator to come in, I'm hoping that is the issue. I'm going on vacation Wednesday for a week, so I'll be out of the loop for a while. Gotta get away from this Seattle rain before I go postal. So, we'll let you know if that helps. Thanks again

Joe and Andrew
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 12:03 PM
  #118  
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Hi Joe and Andrew,
If i was living in your vicinity, I would be there helping ya out!
But thats not reality so...well take that vacation, get away fron the rain and the truck! It helps me to get away from it sometimes. I never have any success on anything when I am mad or frustrated...not saying that you are, but anyway have a great time and keep us posted when ya get back. Remember! If it was easy, then everyone would do it!
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 07:55 PM
  #119  
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yeah joe took off to mexico. lucky ***! Im still stuck here in showering rain storms LOL. he's gone for a week so I guess Im on a break to
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #120  
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If you were a good friend you would have that truck done when he got back!
Just kidding! keep us posted!
 
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