issues getting engine swap to run, help.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 94
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From: Wetside, WA
Fuel pressure at idle is right around 35 psi, when we pull the vacuum off the FPR it jumps to 42. When we reconnect it and try to throttle up the pressure jumps to about 40 while the engine dies.
EDIT: Looked at the timing again, set at 10 good to go. back to grounding...
We're going to start grounding the heck out of this thing in a minute here. Just trying to update to hopefully get some more input.
Thanks again for all the help!
Joe
EDIT: Looked at the timing again, set at 10 good to go. back to grounding...
We're going to start grounding the heck out of this thing in a minute here. Just trying to update to hopefully get some more input.
Thanks again for all the help!
Joe
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
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From: Pekin, IL
Ok so it sounds like your fuel pressure is okay at this point. and in regards to what Sam was saying, the regulator is working.
Did you remember to tighten the muffler belt?
Now...did you make accomodations for a "check engine" light?
so you can run a diagnostic check on the EEC system? You should be able to perform a Key On Engine Off test. Do you have a tester gizmo for that?
I had one for years, after it sat around long enough I threw the dang thing away, thinking I would never need it for anything that old...
figures huh?
If you didn't know it, the KeyOnEngineOff test will check the computer and most sensors, you can also do a WIGGLE test for loose wiring/poor connections using the little plug-in tester like I had. they are not expensive like the OBD-II testers. I think like $25 or maybe a little less even. can't really remember now, but its an invaluable tool.
edit-if you have the tester, you don't need the check engine light(in fact I hate that bright yellow glow in your face!)
Did you remember to tighten the muffler belt?
Now...did you make accomodations for a "check engine" light?
so you can run a diagnostic check on the EEC system? You should be able to perform a Key On Engine Off test. Do you have a tester gizmo for that?
I had one for years, after it sat around long enough I threw the dang thing away, thinking I would never need it for anything that old...
figures huh?If you didn't know it, the KeyOnEngineOff test will check the computer and most sensors, you can also do a WIGGLE test for loose wiring/poor connections using the little plug-in tester like I had. they are not expensive like the OBD-II testers. I think like $25 or maybe a little less even. can't really remember now, but its an invaluable tool.
edit-if you have the tester, you don't need the check engine light(in fact I hate that bright yellow glow in your face!)
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Have you checked out the www.fordfuelinjection.com site yet?
Also you might start a thread in the '87-'96 truck forum too...those guys are probably more knowledgeable than me, because its what they deal with all the time. just a thought. either way I still want to stay with this.
Joe I know you are pushin hard to get it goin, but when you get time you really need to check out the above link/site. for your own benefit. I may sound like a broken record but it is a wealth of knowledge/learning.
Also you might start a thread in the '87-'96 truck forum too...those guys are probably more knowledgeable than me, because its what they deal with all the time. just a thought. either way I still want to stay with this.
Joe I know you are pushin hard to get it goin, but when you get time you really need to check out the above link/site. for your own benefit. I may sound like a broken record but it is a wealth of knowledge/learning.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Wetside, WA
I do not/did not get set up for a check engine light. I'll look into a tester tomorrow. I have looked at the links you sent me, and parused the rest of the website. I've tried grounding everything also, to no avail. I'll post up in the '87-'96 section with a link to this thread.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Ok well I will be thinking about it, gonna sign off for the night.
I was looking in a troubleshooting section and it mentions checking the EGR valve...not sure about this one because my experience with EGR valves is that they create idle problems if stuck open or carboned up.
but just another food for thought. I will check back tomorrow around lunch( we are three hours different in time right?) and in the evening as well.
Its not rocket science so try to be patient my friend! Jeff
I was looking in a troubleshooting section and it mentions checking the EGR valve...not sure about this one because my experience with EGR valves is that they create idle problems if stuck open or carboned up.
but just another food for thought. I will check back tomorrow around lunch( we are three hours different in time right?) and in the evening as well.
Its not rocket science so try to be patient my friend! Jeff
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Joe, I copied and pasted this from another site. I did a search:
Symptoms of a faulty egr valve, now I am wondering...
Egr valve is an emissions component that is used to reduce tailpipe emissions by "recycling" exhaust gas (simple laymans terms).
A valve that is stuck open will cause a rough idle or stalling problem...
A valve stuck closed can cause spark knock on acceleration or cruising
A valve that opens too much or too soon can cause a stumble, hesitation or loss of power during acceleration.
I posted this on your other link as well.
this is a very possible candidate
Symptoms of a faulty egr valve, now I am wondering...
Egr valve is an emissions component that is used to reduce tailpipe emissions by "recycling" exhaust gas (simple laymans terms).
A valve that is stuck open will cause a rough idle or stalling problem...
A valve stuck closed can cause spark knock on acceleration or cruising
A valve that opens too much or too soon can cause a stumble, hesitation or loss of power during acceleration.
I posted this on your other link as well.
this is a very possible candidate
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City, Mo
Joe,It seems to me trouble shooting is becoming a parts exchange without knowing the whole picture. I did a research on my engine, bought the wiring diagram manual on eplay for $30.00 and received three manuals. You can the trace down all the parts needed from the donor for the transplant. Then you have about two choices of harnesses. The donor harness or a aftermarket company harness that has done the research to eliminate certain sensors. Otherwise it is going to be a long trial and error costing you time and money. Going to another site on the engine might produce wiring diagrams. Seems like someone should have previously completed this swap. Good luck, chuck
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Wetside, WA
Hey guys, sorry I haven't been on in a few days, I work nights/weekends so this is the busy part of my week. We're going back at it on Tuesday evening. I bought the recommended obd I code scanner, so we'll try to pull the codes Tuesday. I'll keep everyone updated. Thanks again for all the help!
Joe
Joe
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Wetside, WA
Okay, got the code reader, did the KOEO self check and came up with these codes...let me stretch my hand before typing all this out... 
63- Throttle Position circuit fault, below minimum voltage
67- Neutral Drive switch circuit failure, circuit open or A/C input high
81- Air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control fault/air injection diverter
82- Air diverter solenoid circuit failure, integrated relay control module
87- Fuel pump primary circuit fault
I'll post these up in the 87-96 section as well, thanks for any input.
Joe
63- Throttle Position circuit fault, below minimum voltage
67- Neutral Drive switch circuit failure, circuit open or A/C input high
81- Air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control fault/air injection diverter
82- Air diverter solenoid circuit failure, integrated relay control module
87- Fuel pump primary circuit fault
I'll post these up in the 87-96 section as well, thanks for any input.
Joe
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
If I remember correctly, the codes get spit out by priority.
I remember you saying that you TPS read 0 to like 9.8?
Not sure if it is adjustable, but the 89 truck I used to have, was adjustable. if yours is then try to adjust it so it reads voltage above 0.
I will look for a more specific setting, but should be below 1.
the two air diverter codes are selenoids that control the smog pump, really shouldn't make it stall off idle...
the primary fuel pump makes sense because you have the pump/pumps directly wired instead of being controlled through the relays. I don't know if that would effect other signals in the computer or not but it sounds like the TPS is the place to start. will get back to you soon.
I remember you saying that you TPS read 0 to like 9.8?
Not sure if it is adjustable, but the 89 truck I used to have, was adjustable. if yours is then try to adjust it so it reads voltage above 0.
I will look for a more specific setting, but should be below 1.
the two air diverter codes are selenoids that control the smog pump, really shouldn't make it stall off idle...
the primary fuel pump makes sense because you have the pump/pumps directly wired instead of being controlled through the relays. I don't know if that would effect other signals in the computer or not but it sounds like the TPS is the place to start. will get back to you soon.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Ford Fuel Injection » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
take a look at this page, it will help with the TPS and if its not adjustable then you may need a new one or "good one" this page tells you what to expect on the voltmeter. You said you read up to 8 or 9 volts...either the meter was set wrong or the volage is 2 times higher than it should be, according to this page. most sensors won;t have more than 5 volts running through them. but anyway hope this helps! a zero is a bad reading though. think this page/link says .61 v to 1.0v at closed throttle.
take a look at this page, it will help with the TPS and if its not adjustable then you may need a new one or "good one" this page tells you what to expect on the voltmeter. You said you read up to 8 or 9 volts...either the meter was set wrong or the volage is 2 times higher than it should be, according to this page. most sensors won;t have more than 5 volts running through them. but anyway hope this helps! a zero is a bad reading though. think this page/link says .61 v to 1.0v at closed throttle.