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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

issues getting engine swap to run, help.

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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:24 PM
  #31  
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And Jeff, I uploaded a couple pics of Hank (the truck) into my gallery, I hope I did it correctly, lol, you'd think for being a 26 year old guy I'd be more computer savvy...
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:27 AM
  #32  
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Also, when the tps is closed it reads 0, when at full throttle it reads 9.7. And it seemed like a smooth sweep, hard to tell since we were using an electric multimeter.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:12 AM
  #33  
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http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/Inject_your_horse3.pdfMorning Joe, at the time of posting this I am getting ready for work but I have a link here about the fuel pump situation here. Sorry to delay but gotta get to work, will reply as soon as I get a chance today.
You didn't mention a fuel pressure at the fuel rail when trying to bring above idle, did you get to observe that?
the reservoir is not just a can, its not real complex but it had a return line back to the tank as well. I will look later to see if I can find some pics and better explanation. Your problem may not be the fuel pressure at this point, because it is falling on its face off idle, not any real demand for lots of fuel volume at that point, when sitting in the garage. gotta go for now. sorry.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 09:47 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jburroughs12
I'm going over to my buddies tonight to work on the truck. How many grounds should I have for the whole system? I think I only have two right now. One is a block ground and the other is part of the harness. I'll check the fuel pressure issues tonight, with key on, not running, idling and under throttle.

I'm still running stock brakes so there isn't a brake booster, should I try and find the brake booster hose and cap it? Or is it part of that little four opening black plastic vacuum bracket?

I'll keep you guys updated.
GROUNDS:
I would highly recommend the following:

0-4ga ground strap from block to frame
frame to cab
cab to block
battery to block

4-8ga ground cable from battery to body
ECU to body

Ford EFI is very "ground dependant" and making sure each connection is clean metal to metal connection is a very good start.


VACUUM:

on the SPEED DENSITY system your engine has, vacuum leaks are quite common and therefore cause quite a bit of trouble.

on the Tbird intake, IIRC, the booster line runs under the upper plenum. also be sure that you have the upper and lower intake sealed properly ( the gasket is only 5 or 6 bucks at your favorite parts house)


Something just occurred to me.... WHAT COIL ARE YOU USING?
the correct coil for this engine is the "square" tyype with exposed magnets... old school oil filled coils are not very compatible.

The coil usually shows weakness by causing the idle to surge, and allow raw fuel to get thru to the exhaust and this causes the POP/KACKLE in the pipes when you let off the gas...

Since you are losing power off idle, you may also need to look into your timing and dizzy..

When you set your timing, did you pull the "pill" from the TFI harness before setting the timing? Did you put it back afterwards?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #35  
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ditto on maverickman.
You didn't mention a fuel pressure at the fuel rail when trying to bring above idle, did you get to observe that?

edit-here is a link to show a diagram of the two pump system
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=95
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #36  
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My buddy forgot his adapter to check the fuel pressure last night. I'm trying to get him to make some time tonight so we can work on it, maybe get the two pump system plumbed in properly. Is there a good way to make the fuel accumulator homemade style? It doesn't seem like something that can be readily found at my local parts store.

Maverickman, we double checked for vacuum leaks again last night by spraying brake cleaner around the entire intake system and we didn't find any. Though, if we sprayed it directly into the intake the truck would die, instead of rev, which is usually the case is it not?

I'll grab some wiring and do all the grounds you suggested as well. The booster hose we have just capped off since I'm not using a brake booster. Is this okay?

I'm using the stock T-Bird coil. the engine came with the stock ecu/coil/harness, so we're just using all of that. Minus the emissions stuff and obviously the interior harness.

I didn't pull the "pill", and to be quite honest, I'm not even sure what you're talking about. I'm a lesser skilled shade tree mechanic, my buddy is the one with more knowledge.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 05:59 PM
  #37  
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the pill he is talking about is the "spout" it is in the wiring harness. it basically disables the computer from controlling the timing. you have to pull it to set the base timing. maybe you didn't have the distributor pulled or adjusted? anyway I am including another link that tells you about it. Ford Fuel Injection » Setting the timing

the links are from fordfuelinjection.com it isnt the answer to everything but it is a good tool for this efi stuff. the reservoir is a salvage yard item.
didn't you say that you had the original tank in the truck? is it behind the seat? my truck is a 49 and I don't know where your tank is, I think the answer to your pump issue,if its behind the seat, is to mount your high pressure pump at a point below the tank so it will gravity feed the pump. I think you could eliminate the other pump if you did that. although I am not 100% sure on that. Just be patient and think it through get those grounds done cause thats important for trouble free operation. keep me posted! i will check in often because I want to know what it is myself. that base timing is important unless you never touched the distributor. hang in there you will get it! your TPS voltage didn't match up to a previous post on this thread, but I am not sure about it yet.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:08 PM
  #38  
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My tank is under the cab in the drivers side. The fuel pickup is on top of the tank and runs on the frame rail. So, I'm thinking I need the two pump setup since I can't do a gravity feed. I'll try to run to the junk yard today to see if I can find a fuel accumulator.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:13 PM
  #39  
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EDIT: Nevermind on the junk yard idea for tonight, they're definitely closed. I'll try to rig up a catch can we have laying around to see if it helps. We'll double check the timing, do all the grounds and see where that takes us.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #40  
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I would be wanting to check that fuel pressure at the fuel rail when you try to take it off idle, that would be a priority but yeah the grounds are important too. I will look for that TPS voltage for ya and let ya know.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #41  
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you shouldn't need the accumulator to test.

also, what happens when you pull the vacuum line off the pressure regulator? (this should simulate throttle)
Sam
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:48 PM
  #42  
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we pulled the line off the regulator and nothing changed.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:59 PM
  #43  
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How are you feeding power to the pumps? through the relays/ecm or more direct wiring? If you are feeding power through the ecm it controls the relays...but again you gotta find out if you lose pressure, with a gauge, at...the...fuel..rail...! I am going in circles now!
BTW looked at the pics! there are two forms of finish or two different trucks? I will stick my neck out here and say I like the lettering on the truck! the first pic! now you're gonna tell me that its currently the flat black truck with the mags....either way is fine but...
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #44  
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We have the pumps directly wired to 12v via a switch with an in line fuse. We are going to check preasure tonight. would have last night, but he forgot his adapter. So I'll let you know. And yeah, its the same truck. The black is post op. Not very happy with the wheels right now, but I have other things to spend money on first.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #45  
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Ok quit staring at the computer and get out there!
Don't be like me
LOL let us know and good luck!
 
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