is this a mass flow engine or a speed density? Seems to me when you start loading the engine it falls on it's face as if it is either flooding or starving for fuel. Do you have heated O2 sensors? can you monitor the output voltage while the engine is running? I had a voltage table showing A/F ratio vs voltage about 20 years ago byt can't find it. sure seems like a mass flow engine with no information as to how mych air is being used.

 

So, not that I'm calling it quits on this whole manic efi swap or anything, but theres a guy around here with a 95 5.0 that he put a carb on...thinking about just putting that in...it would need a new carb because he's using it on his new engine. Pros, cons, etc...what's a good street carb to use on it with an aod transmission? He has a holley 1850 carb that he could sell me, but on the jegs website it says it won't work with the aod... I'm at a lost.

 

Carb and AOD is a limited list.

Sam

 

I do a lot of highway driving and even with the 3.00 gears the c4 would be turning at a pretty good clip...

 

ok once again I keep forgetting to bring home my fuel pressure kit. haha so I have not done that test yet.

As of right now, If we: start the truck with the nutraul saftey wire connected to the ecu thats grounded, then disconnect it when switching gears It has power under load YAY

But after coming to a stop from driving it has a horrible idel. up and down, up and down, up and down the idel gos it sounds bad. BUT we have power under load So we are super excited about that.

Jo was about to throw in the towell and just go get a carbed 302 he from on craigslist for 500 bucks. haha. I told him to shut up, we are fixing this one.

 

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/2353501697.html, http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/2355028596.html, http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/2353919422.html . So those are some of the ones I'm considering. I know I've spent a lot of time and money on this efi swap but damn it I want my truck back! And if I can get it running again without getting 8mpg like the 351w, that's all I can ask for at this point.

 

Good stroke. Found this for idle chuck

Does your idle rise and fall over and over again? Does your 'Stang stall when you come to a stop, or even when you put it in gear? Well if so then this series of articles is for you.
In this age of fuel injection, idle problems can literally be caused by hundreds of different things. What this series of articles is aimed at is how to fix the most common idle problems found in the Mustang.
The fuel injected Mustang uses a small motor/valve assembly that allows a specific amount of air to enter the engine to control it's idle. This valve is comonly called the idle motor, the IAC (idle air control) or the IAB (Idle air bypass). When your car is new the IAC works remarkably well. The problem arises when the car gets some miles on it (usually 75K+) and carbon fouling takes its toll.
What happens is dirt, excess air filter oil, and most notably carbon gunks up the IAC valve and doesn't allow it to either open or close properly. This can cause an really high idle, a lumpy/surging idle or no idle at all. The solution is to either replace or clean the IAC. Obviously we are going to do the later and here is how.

1. What is needed?
- 8mm or 5/16 socket and ratchet
- Can of Carburetor/throttle body cleaner

2. Locating the IAC valve:
Depending on the year of your Mustang the IAC can be in a few different locations.
- On 5.0L Fox body cars the IAC is bolted to the side of the throttle body.
- On SN-95 cars it is bolted to the intake manifold
- On 4.6L DOHC and SOHC engines the IAC is located on the upper intake manifold.
In reality once you know what one looks like (picture 2 "B" from a 94-95, fox body's have longer silver IACs) you should have no trouble finding yours. They all look basically the same except pre-94 cars were made of metal and are silver, 94-up cars are black plastic.

 

hey email crasher(Andrew Right?) yeah tell Joe to stop thinking backwards! i tell him myself !! Joe stop thinkin' backwards!
You can always buy an aftermarket EFI harness. they aren't cheap but then it would be clean, clear, and straight forward. You guys need to clear your heads ! you will figure it out, and when you do, you will be glad you stuck with it. by the time you buy the equipment needed to go with a carb, you will be money ahead to stick with what ya got! Stop thinkin about backin out of EFI and get this dang thing figured out! You guys can do it! Show these old school carb guys what they are missing! (sorry old school carb guys... )
We have been tellin ya to check that fuel pressure under a load for awhile now, wud up wit that
Ok i will quit the pep talk... Is there anybody else out there you can get involved? mustang buddies and such? or are you like me and don't have any grease monkey friends that know any better or care...
Come on Joe !if it was easy, everyone would have one!
Ok im done for now... Im a nut case!

 

I read those craiglist postings...Balanced and blueprinted! for 500 ?whatever...if it sounds too good to be true...it probably is...somebody needs to stop smokin....yeah and im not talkin cigarettes...
sometimes its fun to read the ads on craigs...list...kinda like the nat'nl enquirer...

and puttin a new set of plugs n wires in, does not qualify as a REBUILD...

ok sorry again, gotta get back to work!

 

I still have the 351 sitting in the bed of the truck, and I can get a carb 302 for about the same price. I can use the c4 our the aod and be on my merry way. My basin mode of transportation has been down for months, and I want to drive it and load the bikes up in the back and go riding. I'm just frustrated.

 

Lokar sells an AOD TV cable adapter for something like $40 bucks. That would make the AOD work on a carb setup. I know, I know, stay the course, finish the EFI setup, but a carb'd 302 with an AOD is looking better and better...

 

yes on the EFI.. My assumption was that you would replace the sensors with new.. its a chase your tail most times without that.. (been there done that myself)

Sam

 

I put new MAP, TFI, TPS, IAC sensors in.

 

tfi is the one in the distributor, right? when I did the 4cyl -> 5.0 conversion on my daughters mustang that was a bad one for me. I also converted to MAF at the same time, custom cam, and modified heads, so the SD tune computer wouldn't work. Then I had the spark plug wiring in chevy order (old chevy guy),
then the fuel pressure regulator was bad.

Sam

 

hi Joe, I was just kinda doin the dad/drill seargent kick in the pants kinda thing. honestly its completely your call buddy, and nobody will think less of you, either way ya go. I can certainly understand your frustration and all...i still want to follow up with ya just to see this long thread thru.
And to all you OLD CARB GUYS ???? well Im an OLD CARB GUY TOO!!!
I had a '68 Bronco as my 1rst ride, it was a complete bitty to start that little horse, but once I found its sweet spot, it never let me down. Kind of a form of anti theft, cause nobody else could get it started like I could!