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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

issues getting engine swap to run, help.

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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 09:53 PM
  #61  
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if you get a new TPS, be sure to disconnect the battery before changing it. the KAM(Keep Alive MEMORY) stores the base voltage from the TPS.
there is a 15% variance allowed from one sensor to the next, on the assembly line. so it will read the base voltage when you first hook the battery back up. it stores that reading and retains it as the base voltage or in other words...the closed throttle position...I'm tellin ya theres some good info on that site for us EFI guys! And no I don't always believe what I read, but until someone tells me different, its what I got to help me. I have a book also that is about 88-93 Ford EFI. also a great tool. by Charles Probst.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 11:49 PM
  #62  
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Sweet sweet sexy success! Put a $40 TPS sensor in and it revs like a charm. Now on to the other issues, lol. Thank you everyone, especially you Jeff, for all your help on this specific issue. Next up is tackling why my alternator isn't charging my battery and how to wire up my fan to come on at a certain temp. vs. being on all the time or a switch. Thanks again!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 07:34 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by jburroughs12
Sweet sweet sexy success! Put a $40 TPS sensor in and it revs like a charm. Now on to the other issues, lol. Thank you everyone, especially you Jeff, for all your help on this specific issue. Next up is tackling why my alternator isn't charging my battery and how to wire up my fan to come on at a certain temp. vs. being on all the time or a switch. Thanks again!
great news!!.. congrats.. thanks for the feedback..

there are simple hard wired temp controls (not adjustable)
and fully adjustable controls.

this is what I used on mine, also had A/C control of the fan as well.
GEARHEAD 180 - 250 DEGREE ADJUSTABLE DELUXE FAN CONTROL - eBay (item 300536507557 end time Mar-16-11 21:48:58 PDT)
you need to install some sensor in the intake for this to connect to.

heres one from hayden, adjustable, and provides a sensor, (may still need a reducer bushing)
Hayden Electric Fan Control 3651 - eBay (item 370486586870 end time Mar-22-11 17:21:30 PDT)

I don't like the kind that have the push thru the rad fin sensor..

the one I picked I was able to connect 100% under the dash, and reuse the EZWire harness wires to connect to the sensor, power, a/c and fan. the adjustability has been important due to the combo of parts I put together, and when I needed to add a resistor to the temp sensor lead to get the gauge accurate.

I actually used this to trigger another relay at the fan which used direct battery connect.. this keeps the load out of the fuse box.. (I relay controlled the headlights, fan(s), air pump and fuel pump this way)

sam
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 11:24 AM
  #64  
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Great read...as i am going to be doing this swap in a couple of months. I like how much help
J got. I was much impressed!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 01:03 PM
  #65  
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Right on Brother! All winter I have been researching this stuff, along with my experiences in the past. Glad to see it helps out! Hope I can do the same for myself! When the time comes...
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:22 PM
  #66  
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Update. Got the shifter linkage hooked up, driveshaft, etc... The truck starts and revs fine, but when we went to back it out of the garage it died. We started it and it ran like crap. Hunting for an idle between 400-600 rpm, wouldn't rev up well at all. And backfiring through the intake.

While it was doing that we tried unplugging some spark plug wires since it sounded like it wasn't running on all 8 cylindersand there didn't seem to be any change at all.

We let it sit for a bit then started it and it seemed to run fine, so once again, threw it in reverse and the same thing happened. What would make it run like this when it's under load/in gear?

I forgot to get a new cap/rotor for it, could this be a problem? Thanks again for the help.

Joe
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #67  
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Another idea, what do you guys think of the intake air control valve being bad? Would that have an effect on it at all?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:01 PM
  #68  
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Although I can't take credit for doing the "heavy lifting," the TPS was my guess on page 1. I'm glad you got it fixed, especially since I have an 87 T-Bird 302 in my 1953 that I've yet to fire up.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 11:07 PM
  #69  
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ain't efi a pia

Hi Joe! had to read back through this thread, but what tranny do you have?
You did have a code for neutral safety switch or a/c voltage too high.
I doubt cap and rotor is the problem. maybe on a high revving race car but not in this case.
Rerun your code scanner. the popping/backfiring sounds like ignition issues. possibly the TFI module??? (it's mounted to the distributor on yours...i think...) the computer can make it do wierd things that I haven't learned all about yet.
I think to myself, "who cares if the neutral safety switch is connected or not!" but that may change something in the computer to compensate for load. And it should, but yeah let's see what it tells us!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 11:19 AM
  #70  
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I have the stock '88 aod. Which is the non computer controlled one. I pulled the codes yesterday and got 67(neutral safety switch), 81, 82 (egr stuff) and 87...which I forgot what that was...its back a few posts I'll check in a second here. That was my thought with the neutral switch, too. How would I go about bypassing that, though? I'm goung over there again tonight, so we'll look into the tfi module as well.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 08:32 PM
  #71  
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Alright, so I put a new TFI module in and it's doing the same thing. My buddy still thinks it could be the intake air control valve. Ideas? we're so close, yet so far...
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:13 PM
  #72  
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If you have the same tranny that the engine came with, then I wouldn't bypass it.. did it get taken off? is it connected up? I was assuming you had something else. Sorry not quite as tuned in this time...
1:been sick with a flu then
2:gallbladder attack
3: trip to ER got some great painkillers!
4:Then my mom is in the hospital
so its been a tough week for my house
need some more of that too!

check out that NSS and connection. I will check back in tomorrow, hang in there Joe! U R gettin there!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #73  
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It is the original transmission. We did take it off to put new a new gasket/filter on the transmission. I don't even know where the engine side plug is for the neut. safety switch. And after thinking about it, the computer doesn't know if it's in P or D since it's not hooked up. So, the neutral/reverse lights plug isn't even hooked up. It's just hanging next to the transmission.

Sorry to hear about the rough week, I hope your mom is doing well.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by carnut122
Although I can't take credit for doing the "heavy lifting," the TPS was my guess on page 1. I'm glad you got it fixed, especially since I have an 87 T-Bird 302 in my 1953 that I've yet to fire up.
carnutt take as much credit as anyone else! there is no "I" in "TEAM"
thats how I like it ! you were looking listening and its all about helping or getting help! And that little red '53 is looking real sweet! looking forward to more pics! I wish I had a building like that!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by jburroughs12
It is the original transmission. We did take it off to put new a new gasket/filter on the transmission. I don't even know where the engine side plug is for the neut. safety switch. And after thinking about it, the computer doesn't know if it's in P or D since it's not hooked up. So, the neutral/reverse lights plug isn't even hooked up. It's just hanging next to the transmission.

Sorry to hear about the rough week, I hope your mom is doing well.
Thanks, She's in sad shape but signs of improvement are there.

Anyway yeah ur on it Joe! find that empty connector and that should do something for ya. good luck!
 
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