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gotta have some light bro, haha, im doing all my work in the snow and dark.......wonder why i have reowork to do? lol. aaaahhhhhh the whistle is a screamin now, i couldnt hear it over the buzz/grind noise but now shes coming through!! haha.
nothin on the pyro yet, just that she zips to 600 on small hills. lol. may have to back the screw off a bit. oh man i havent posted the vids of the torque screw fun yet haha. Tomorrow, right now is movies and adult beverages! haha.
My pyro hasn't hit 600 if I remember correctly, only about 500 when I really push it (like when racing, jkjk). I guess I'll play with my torque screw some...
yeah im hittin right around 800* 900* if im really pullin a heavy load up a steep grade but so far so good... we shall see once the new pump, injectors, and down pipe go in
wreck i forgot you have all that snow up there, that was my fault lol... cant wait for the pics and vids though man!!!!!!
the used ATS off eBay should be here Friday - with Banks downpipe - hoping you can give me some ideas on how best to cut /bend to get the down pipe in - moteur is outta truck sitting in garage just waiting for the rest of the install
When the pyro still worked in my truck, it rarely went over 600 unless I passed 80 MPH. Then it was closer to 750. Blasting up a 10% hill rolling a little smoke would sometimes bring it closer to 1000. For driving around town though, it would sometimes hit 400. One thing I notices is after I wrappped the cross over pipe and turbo housing, the temps would stay a bit more consistently around 400 even in light driving. Peak temps didn't see much change, but the turbo response felt a bit better.
David thats good to know!!! Thats another plan of action that i can not wait for after the new down pipe and ip and injectors, is wrapping and spraying all the pipes
here is some help with the firewall, so do it like in the pics below but on the first pic, bend it more on the right side.
This one shows the cuts i made from above. From this view, make one more cut on the left or just bend it more. Then good. Each truck will be different but this worked for mine!
The cuts are good, what I did after I made the cuts was take a big prybar and rest it on the back of the block and bend the firewall in, it turned out pretty good. I try to take some pics.
yep the top pic is with it bent back and showing all the new room, the bottom one looking down was pre bending. I used a 2.25" piece of exhaust pipe and some square tube for the tighter areas. Very easy with the cuts, impossible without the cuts.
With my 6 ft pry-bar, I got the firewall almost flat where the lip was if it never existed and gave me lots of room. From your second pic, it looks like you could still bend the lip a little more but if you got the room you needed, I guess your fine.
yeah on the side it only has about an inch or less but the back, its free and clear. Still pondering the body lift but not sure how that works, i guess its just jacking the body up after taking the nuts off the body mount studs and replacing the bushings?
left it wire loomed and put a high temp sleeve around that where it is near the housing and ziptied it to the oil drain casting. Left lots of room between it and the housing and is more than 2 inches away which is double the required space for the heat sleeve to work.