ATS 093 install thread
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
No you dont need to relocate the GPC, the wire loom can just be ziptied to the oil drain tube. I covered the glow plug controller cover with heat resistant tape so it would be safe and with my laser temp gauge it never gets over 125, perfectly ok. The fuel return line from number 7 passenger side, iirc, i covered with a heat resistant sleeve and it as well is just fine. I didnt wrap my down pipe and it isnt bad but this summer will be the test. I am applying 1/4" heat resistant and sound deadening matting soon inside so that should take care of most of the problem but i dont notice it at all so far. As for the crossover pipe, i had all intentions thinking i would need to build more boost but i hit 10psi in less than a second without the wrap so.....im good to go. I coated all of the cast parts with ceramic coatings that harden and seal stuff out and heat in and it is holding up well. Dont know where you will find it since my bro hooked me up with it from his shop and its a mix and spray.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: On the prairie
I think I'll wrap as much as I can anyway since I bought the stuff already. If anything I may just end up not needing as much fuel to hit max boost. I don't think I want to go charging right up to ten though, I'm worried what 20 year old headgaskets will do with it. I've got a temp probe on my multimeter at work, if something looks endangered I'll take a few hard rides with the probe in suspect areas.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
if you are going install a turbo you better pyro it. The wastegate is stock set to 7-7.5 so you will be fine, i tinkered with mine to see if the rumors were true from ATS about a loss of power and they are full of ****, that three psi made a very, very large diff. Your 20 year old engine is younger than my 1989 so i am sure you will be fine.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: On the prairie
I bought a 20lb boost gauge and 1600 pyro, the toolman is bringing me a nice set of taps and dies so the pyro is going in before anything else so I can blow the crap out cranking the engine over. I thought that was kinda peculiar ATS claiming added boost will cut power, especially if theres more room under the fuel screw. More air more fuel more power, don't you love cookin with oil 
!
!
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
I guess to a certain extent it might reduce power, but you'd have to be pushing more boost than our engines can handle. When you use a turbo the compressed air can become warm or even hot at high boost numbers so the intercooler was brought to life. Pushing more boost, keeping the charge air cool, tons more power. But we don't have to worry about that, okay well maybe dave has to lol
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: On the prairie
well the project's underway. I've wraped the crossover pipe and turbo-in pipe, I need to make some sort of heat shield or at least get some more washers so the intake manifold bolts on number seven go in all the way. The thermocouple is set in the drivers side manifold kinda right over number six from the top (easiest angle to drill from and most room without needing an angle drill to get into the collector), I buzzed the motor over a couple seconds to blow the shavings out of the hole and into the old exhaust. I'm wondering how much I'll have to bend the firewall, I'm bettin' the E4OD makes it a little tighter than your C6. The whole thing was shipped to me kinda nice for install, the turbo exhaust -in pipe and downpipe elbow are already atatched as well as the mount/drain assembly.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
here ya go fellas with a turbo/wastegate like mine.
To adjust for more boost:
parts needed:
-1 x 1/8 drill bit and drill
-1 x 1/4" e clamp, because you never know when it will eject into space
-1/2" wrench, normal is fine, combo works well with the boxed end
-Pliers or small screw driver to pry up the e clamp and a magnet put on it for safe keeping, this will prevent the ejection but you never know.
-bench vise or similar method to steady
-common sense, required but often missing
On the pin of the wastegate, exhaust outlet side are two dents posted earlier in this thread. I was unable to mod the wastegate for fear of breaking the pin. So i drilled it like so, turned it three full turns and 10psi, tada! so complex i know but you can break them if you keep turning without drilling. Work it back and forth with some pb blaster or similar till it turns freely. Make sure to crank that little nut down when done, your wastegate might change the psi differently so careful.
To adjust for more boost:
parts needed:
-1 x 1/8 drill bit and drill
-1 x 1/4" e clamp, because you never know when it will eject into space
-1/2" wrench, normal is fine, combo works well with the boxed end
-Pliers or small screw driver to pry up the e clamp and a magnet put on it for safe keeping, this will prevent the ejection but you never know.
-bench vise or similar method to steady
-common sense, required but often missing
On the pin of the wastegate, exhaust outlet side are two dents posted earlier in this thread. I was unable to mod the wastegate for fear of breaking the pin. So i drilled it like so, turned it three full turns and 10psi, tada! so complex i know but you can break them if you keep turning without drilling. Work it back and forth with some pb blaster or similar till it turns freely. Make sure to crank that little nut down when done, your wastegate might change the psi differently so careful.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
Thanks wreck, so that whole bottom piece is threaded and has to rotate? I was hoping to do it on the truck but I guess not, no biggie.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Hagerstown, Md
great info wreck!!! iirc my wastegate is a little different i dont think that i had that nut on mine for some reason and didnt remember having those dimples to drill out ill have to check tomorrow
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
not all are created equal, thats why this is merely a guide for those of us with the stock ford/ats wastegate with dimples. I am on the hunt to replace it, just seems to be stuck at 9.5-10, i want to push on to 25 or 30 psi.
snapon, yeah it is just two 1/2" bolts and it comes off in 30 seconds if you are fast. i can have it off in two minutes taking my time and back on after adjustment in 10. its really easy
snapon, yeah it is just two 1/2" bolts and it comes off in 30 seconds if you are fast. i can have it off in two minutes taking my time and back on after adjustment in 10. its really easy
