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Okay back to business. Truck runs good drives decent. I didn't get to thrash it cause of the sleet and snow (darn). I did manage to hit 7 or 8psi just before third gear. EGT hovered just under 500 with one burst getting to around 600. My fuel's not turned up yet. Now I've got a freakin fuel leak somewhere, after 15 minutes of driving my valley was half full again. I changed o-rings on 1 3 5 & 7 (1 3 and 7 twice) but the caps were dry. Its gotta be coming from one of the steel lines (the pump is 4 months old)
Filter head to ip hard line is a likely culprit. Mine leaked and soaked the pan awhile back. That or one of the hard lines. Spray it all out with some brakleen and wipe it dry, then start it and have your flashlight ready to look. Also number one line where the fitting is can leak. Check tightness of all supply lines!
found it. I was using just 5/16 heavy walled fuel line and not the stuff like what return line kits come with. Turns out my hose clamp wasn't tight enough where it meets the brass tee back to the tank. Now that thats been solved, MORE FUEL! MWAH HA HA HA!!!
Well, I didn't get the fuel adjusted. I don't think I have a small enough allen wrench (instructions say 5/32" ?). After bombing around on these snowy roads in four wheel drive though I'm not sure I have to. I hit 10 psi on the boost and I don't recall exactly but I'm not sure EGT ever got higher than 600. There was some light haze when the torque converter went into lockup and the boost hit 10 lbs. Any opinions on wether or not I need more No. 2? Sure is fun to get goin sideways in a truck that used to take 10 seconds to 60!
figured id post this here as i just got around to posting up what i ran into with the trans temp gauge install. Got it all torn apart, new filter, 1/8" npt fitting welded in and new gasket. Didnt do one important step, see if the damn autometer temp sender will fit in the little hole seen here.
Well it didnt and wouldnt ya know it i had the pan all torqued down. friggin crapola, down comes the pan again and some very careful drilling later, it fit. Make sure it fits prior to installing the pan. I wanted to drill it while it was bolted to the trans but common sense overwhelmed me just at the right moment, duh where will all the shavings go? Odd thing i did find is magnets in the bottom of the pan. Two circles and very powerful. i thought they were attached to the pan but they are just really strong. Cleaned them off and back in, they had a residue on them that i can assume was the machining dust off of parts when it was rebuilt. Looked clean as a whistle inside and i can tell the gasket wasnt old when i removed the pan, it came off with the pan and lifted right off, wasnt stuck at all. Okay i am done talking lol.
its already done. there is a tapped location but its for the pressure test apparently. No good temps will come from that location is what three trans places in my area said, one of them being in washington. The all encouraged me to install in the pan and ignore the tapped spot, tempting as it may be.
looking through the thread, i noticed i never uploaded pics of the exhaust.
Here it is looking forward. you can see the muffler and tip area in my sig.
Here is the reducer i was talking about, 3" off the DP and goes to 4" for the exhaust pipe. Little mud never hurt anything haha. Its all coated now with an aluminum colored coating to protect the pipe and clamps. Speaking of clamps they are the stainless band clamps i mentioned in another thread or post. They work great and aside from tiny spots leaking out, no major hassle with them and they dont deform the pipe so it can slip right apart unlike ubolt clamps.