To put it simply, ATS knows that there is a lot of variation in where you put a pyro. Pyro's are also expensive, adding what, $150-200 to the cost of a turbo system? Plus it makes for a more complicated install. The common person doesn't have a clue how to use a pyro gauge, or most other gauges on the dash except the speedometer and fuel gauge.

Banks and other manufacturers may have looked past that, and decided the extra cost for the pyro and directions to use it were given. Perhaps this makes them a better kit than ATS's if you're trying to push your truck to its limits. Most consumers of a turbo aren't trying to push it to its limits, they just want a safe boost in the performance.

I think you're looking at it from the wrong perspective. No pyro = simple, cheaper, more idiot proof. From a business side that seems like a winner to me. The view of an advanced user like you says otherwise, and it should because you know the benefit of a pyro and are willing to pay extra for one, and take the time and effort to monitor it.

For years Macs came with a simple plain one button mouse. PC's came with a 2 button mouse. I prefer a mouse with a wheel and 2 additional buttons. My opinion on one button mice is they are for idiots that don't know how to use computers. Apple's opinion on one button mice are they are simple and easy to use, which was their vision for Mac's, simple and easy to use.

 

I just look at it from the perspective of - no pyro, melt your pistons. That's where I was coming from. Nothing is completely idiot proof, where a company stops at making something idiot proof is another thing. I understand what your saying though, I just think a statement like 'don't use a pyro' is going too far to make something idiotic friendly.

 

The DMF has I guess two main functions. The one most people know about is the two masses connected by springs (hence the name). The springs are meant to absorb the torque spikes that diesels make when idling. The torque spikes aren't an issue at normal operating RPM's, just at low RPM's like idling. The way I understand it is these spikes are higher and shorter than what is found in gas engines, and can cause the gears to rattle back and forth in a way that supposedly damages the gears, bearings, or both.

The second function in the DMF's for our trucks (I don't know if they are in all of them) is a small torque limiting clutch. This clutch is supposed to protect the tranny and/or the driveline by slipping if the engine is pushing too much torque. The problem is that if the clutch slips once, its prone to slip again, especially if the flywheel experiences elevated temperatures. At least thats what my research on the topic found about 2 years ago. I guess this is more of a problem with powerstrokes than IDI's which is why we haven't heard much of it here.

If I remember correctly, this is how it is all put together. The hub on the DMF attaches to the engine's crankshaft. Between the hub and the engine side of the DMF is the clutch pack. The ring gear is attached to the engine half of the flywheel. Between the two halves (masses) of the flywheel is a large sealed center bearing, and the springs along the outside. The pressure plate attaches to the tranny side half, which is heavy and machined smooth like a normal flywheel. The two halves can rotate a small amount by hand, then a bit more when the springs compress.

Under load, the springs are compressed and the flywheel acts like a normal solid one piece flywheel. When there is no load, the two halves are free to wiggle back and forth allowing the springs to absorb the spikes.

 

so i can run a standard flywheel on the zf setup...has anyone ever complained of more than gear whine from using one????? like blow trans or burned bearings..

 

snapon, the magnaflow tip is perfect, just dont count on it being pretty for long. but with some metal polish and a buffing wheel, it can look like new again.

This thread is going sideways and upside down.

 

Interesting concept...

But do you REALLY think the "common person" is going to even install a turbo kit on these trucks in the first place? A pyro is the least of your problems during an install... And if you are too stupid to realize that "1200 degrees is hot" then you shouldn't be attempting a turbo install anyway.

ATS simply didn't engineer it in like ALL the other companies did in order to save money and stay competitive on the price.
Hell, Hypermax went as far as dropping an exhaust system off their kit to cut the cost. A pyrometer is optional with their kit, but there IS a place for it. Although I don't know why this debate matters anymore as ATS has discontinued their IDI parts ages ago...

As much as I sometimes doubt humanity these days, you still have to look at the big picture. Besides, if ATS was trusting enough to advise you to adjust your Injection pump...I think they would trust you hooking up a single wire lead for a pyro. That is, if they had designed it into the kit in the first place.

-Dave

EDIT: Also wanted to say congratulations on the install, Wreck! Enjoy your new toy.

 

Back on point, have you been able to get a rough estimate on your mileage improvement, or havent you been able to keep your foot off the smoke pedal

 

Oh ok, it is chrome or stainless steel?

 

Thanks for comment Dave7.3, anapon, its stainless steel and rifleman, i am about 2mpg higher when i keep my foot out of it but my mileage is hard to gauge. It depends on what i am doing. Going to and from work, i have about a 30 mile drive. It involves about half of that on the malahat, our little mountain in-between my house and work. Its about 1100 feet high from sealevel and 12% grades. If i had just a flat drive to work, my mileage would be incredible. I can regularly pull 18 and that involves some fun pedal time.

 

Holy crap! And I got one more gear than you! This I'm looking forward to!

 

here ya go 91dd,

 

where does the cdr tube connect to? into the air filter housing?

 

yep, right on the curve passenger side of the filter box area there will be a 3/4" i think tube that stick out an inch or so, see in this pic just to the left side of the Turbo letters.

 

ok perfect!!! i just need oil line and hardware and ill be good to go!!! oh.. and boost guage

 

that boost gauge can just tap into the top of the ATS "snail" housing. There is a little square head 1/8" NPT fitting in it, just remove and install boost gauge! if ya didnt know that is...lol